3D Hobby Shop 68" Velox - Build Thread (w/ new DLE30 and pics)

[tjhawker]

3D Hobby Shop 68" Velox - Build Thread w/ new DLE-30cc Gas Engine


Might be just a little bit small for the "Giant Scale" world, but we're going with a gas setup, and this plane sure flies like a giant scale....so here is the build-thread for the recently released 3DHobby Shop 68" Velox (http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2545) . The manual is available on-line here: 68" Velox Manual (http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/Images/planes/68Velox/68VeloxManual.pdf)

Jeff (flyinhigh025) and I will be working on this project over the next week and we'll go through the process of building the 68" Velox with the new DLE-30 power system in mind.

I've gotten the chance to fly both Scott's DLE30 and Electric powered Velox', and both power systems are fantastic on this airframe. The DLE-30 definitely provides much more power and rips this plane around the sky like a foamy. It's awesome. Both setups are light-weight and floaty, and fly precision and 3D fantastically. I can't wait to get this one finished and in the air!

Stay tuned, we'll update this thread as often as we can while we get the build completed.

--Tyler

Specs:


Wingspan: 68"
Length: 67"
Weight: 8-9 lbs.
Wing Area: 900 sq. inches

All ball-link hardware included.
Carbon wing tube and landing gear.
Wings pre-hinged and gap-sealed.
Easily-removable SFG's retained with thumb screws.
Wing bags included.
Covered in ultracote.Items Using to Complete Build:


5x Hitec HS-985MG Servos
1x Hitec HS-225MG Servo
*new* DLE 30cc Gas Engine w/ignition
Mejzlik 18x8 Carbon Fiber Prop
Smart-Fly Ignition Regulator
2s 480mAh LiPo Ignition pack
2s 2200mAh A123 Flight Pack
14oz Fuel Tank



Videos:
*coming soon*

[tjhawker]

Reserved.

[Cracky]

I saw this the other day, looks like it should be fun fun fun....

Looks like there is a Slick in the same size too....

[tjhawker]

Yup, 3DHS also sells the 70" AJ Slick. Right now, it's cowl/canopy design really only works with electric setups, but there will be a "gas" version out soon for running the 30cc gas engines.

[JClark]

Ok Tyler get to work.:197:
I will be getting the Red/Yellow one and doing the same set up after the first of the year. Have to get the 126" Slick done first.:198:

[Cracky]

Have to get the 126" Slick done first.:198:

what do you want, a pitty party? LOL

[danielgpr]

Starting on mine tomorrow :33:
Not sure what servos I'm gunna use yet. Probably JR126mg since I have a bunch on shelf.
Going w/ DLE, Fromco 2600 w/ reg, probably use 1000mah nicad I have laying around for ign and Spetrum AR7000 reciever.
Dan

[AllBread]

Here's some shots that I have of the prototypes, this thing is sweet on gas or electric.

[sun.flyer]

Here's some shots that I have of the prototypes, this thing is sweet on gas or electric.


..................and perhaps even glow. :197:

Tim

[sukhoi26mx]

Here's some shots that I have of the prototypes, this thing is sweet on gas or electric.That red one that is your avatar would look pretty good on you. Let me know when you can pick it up. Ben has canopies in stock, and that's all you'll need... You just have to take the gear out of it.

Scott

[danielgpr]

Scott,
What servos are you using? and what was the total lenght of the stand offs? Ben told me but I forgot. Thanks
Dan

[flatspinjim]

Subscribed

[Adrenalin2m]

Looks like a winner for a first gasser and IMAC plane.

[sukhoi26mx]

Scott,
What servos are you using? and what was the total lenght of the stand offs? Ben told me but I forgot. Thanks
DanHitec 985MG - great servo in this application. The stock standoffs are 1 1/8th, so you'll need an additional inch to total 2 1/8th.

Scott

[JClark]

so you'll need an additional inch

Scott[/quote]
The wife says the same thing all the time.:197:

Crackey just think when I get it done then you will have a chance to fly it.:198: The sooner the better so donations are being accepted.:200:

[Paul5992]

[addpics]

[AllBread]

Here's two more shots. The first batch was all on electric power - these two show the DLE-30 doing it's thing under the cowl.

Ryan

All of these are of Scott flying a prototype that has had 2 different gas set-ups in it (and various electric set-ups, the wings have been moved, it's been crashed 17n times etc. - I can certainly attest to how much testing 3DHS does on their airplanes before they hit the market!), so the opening in the cowl might be larger than is needed. I can't wait to see how the install goes on the production model.

[Cracky]

donations are being accepted.:200:

I'll donate the fuel for a flight.....you like Redline??

[JClark]

Redline is fine.
The Fox 200 is going to be a great motor for the 126" Slick.
I will use the velox as a beater plane.:197::210:

[tjhawker]

Build #1

Got started on the build yesterday evening.

Pre-Assembly
Started out by cutting out all the necessary holes in the fuselage and control surfaces.
For the DLE30 setup, we are going to install all three tail-surface servos in the tail (one for each elevator half and one for the rudder).

Landing Gear
Then we moved on to assembling the landing gear. This was very easy. The wheel pants are pinched between the axle and the gear leg and are also secured with two wood screws. We used Kavan tires in this build simply because they don't grab and skip as much on the runway surface we fly off of. The landing gear plate is already pre-drilled with blind nuts and the assembled landing gear bolts right on.

The tail wheel on this plane is awesome. It looks like the tail wheel assembly off of a 50cc bird. Nice carbon fiber mounting bracket, and mounts to the fuselage with bolts/blind t-nuts. Very cool. :198:

--Tyler

[tjhawker]

Build #2

Tail Surfaces
This is always my least favorite part of any build, but this one went very well. The horizontal stab fit perfectly without any modifications and was perfectly square with the fuselage right out of the box. After getting it lined up and glued in place, we let it sit for a while to make sure the CA was fully cured before installing the control surfaces.Hinging
The wings are already pre-hinged and sealed, but you do have to hinge the tail surfaces. All of the hinge points are pre-drilled which makes hinging as easy as gluing them in place. We decided to use gorilla glue to install the point hinges. I think it's easier to use, and stronger in the long run over epoxy. Make sure you have some vaseline and rubbing alcohol readily available.
Take the Vaseline and work it into the hinge pivot with a q-tip, making sure the glue can't get in/around the movable hinge point. Drip some water down into the hinge holes on both the stab and control surface, and then squeeze some glue into the holes (wiping off any excess with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol). Install the hinges into the stab, and then slide the control surfaces on. Flex the control surfaces to make sure you are getting enough control throw and have your hinge-gap set properly. Watch the area for at least a half hour, and immediately wipe off any glue that starts foaming out of the hinge points. Your altitude, ambient temperature, and humidity will all determine how much and how fast the gorilla glue foams up.
Control Surfaces

The next thing we did is install the control horns onto the control surfaces. Again, we are using gorilla glue for this. Pre-assemble the control horns/base plate and test-fit into the control surfaces. I like to take a ball-link and bolt and install that between the control horns so that you know the horns are properly spaced when being glued in place. Once you know everything fits, apply some gorilla glue to the control horns, and slide them into place. Again, wipe off any excess glue and any glue that foams out with a rag and rubbing alcohol.

--Tyler

[tjhawker]

Guys --

We'll try to get some more done on this as we can. We were expecting to have our hands on the DLE-30 already, but it got back ordered on us and we don't get it until tomorrow. :202:

We've got the servos mounted, and the next step is to install the ball-link hardware. We'll be using the stock long arms on all of the control surface servos. After that, we'll install the engine, fuel tank, and it's necessary electronics.

This build is going very quick, and if we had everything needed to complete the build, there's no doubt we would of been able to knock out the entire build yesterday :198:

--Tyler

[BoneDoc]

Great thread Tyler.

Looking forward to the final product :).

[Pixturethis]

I flew yesturday with a evo 26cc gas with a pitts muffler & apc 18x6wide. This plane is awesome.
More than enough power with the muffler. Can't wait to try out the pipe. I only put in a 8oz tank & still get 12 min of flying. Another great plane from 3dhs. Will have to get another one for electric. Hard to beleave it's a floater at this weigt. I think mine is about 10lbs. Butdont have a scale.
Hey Jared can u pm me about your shp ?

[flatspinjim]

Any progress Tyler?

[flyinhigh025]

Time to continue on with the build...

POWERPLANT: DLE 30 w/stock muffler
The DLE30 is the 3DHS recommended little POWERHOUSE for the 68" Velox. The engine is already proving to be another great addition to the DLE engine line.
Includes:
- 1 1/8 inch standoffs
- Ignition
- Muffler
- Spark Plug
- Cast Aluminum Throttle Arm (Nice!)

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED:
- 1" Aluminum Spacers (Add to stock standoffs to achieve proper backplate to cowl spacing)
- 3 3/4 to 4" Mounting bolts and related hardware
- Smart Fly Ignition Regulator (Were using a Hyperion G3 2S 25C 850mAh Lipoly Ignition Pack)
- HITEC HS225MG Servo (Throttle)

-Jeff

[flyinhigh025]

Engine Mounting:
Template: The DLE30 mounting pattern does not match the factory installed blind nuts. Remove the factory blind nuts and make a template using the DLE30 and standoffs.

Mounting: Drill the mounting holes so the engine will center on the factory laser markings. Mount engine using the additional hardware.

[flyinhigh025]

Carburetor Position:
The carburetor must be removed and re-positioned in order to obtain proper throttle servo to arm alignment.

Note: The throttle and choke arms are oriented facing the engine head as seen in the picture below.

-Jeff

[flyinhigh025]

Throttle Servo:
Mount your throttle servo (HS225MG) on the right side of the motor box with output arm facing aft. See picture sequence below.

-Note: Now is a good time to install the supplied cast throttle arm.

-Jeff

[flyinhigh025]

Throttle Servo Control Pushrod:
I decided to use a double z-bend pushrod for the throttle pushrod. This was cut from a pushrod supplied in the kit.

I like the double z-bend, nothing to work loose!

-Jeff

[flyinhigh025]

Ignition:
Mount the ignition unit on the left side of the motor box as shown using foam insulation.

-Jeff

[flyinhigh025]

Fuel Tank Installation:
We decided to use a Sullivan 14oz slant style fuel tank in place of the included 18+oz stock tank. I can already tell you 14oz of gas will run the DLE for a solid 15+ minutes. Plenty!

Note: If you choose to use the stock tank with gas, a conversion stopper and line kit must be purchased. The stock tank hardware is intended for glow fuel use only.

Assemble your fuel tank and gas compatible hardware. We used a three line system: Fuel delivery line to carb, vent and fill lines.

Position the fuel tank as far aft as possible touching the wing tube and secure using your preferred method. This is important for two reasons. The first is we want the tank as close to the aircrafts CG as possible, reducing the change in CG as the gas is burned off. And second, it is important to position the onboard accessories as far aft as we can helping to locate the CG in the correct position.

See pictures below for installation details.
-Jeff

[tjhawker]

Great job getting the thread updated Jeff. :198:


Carburetor Position:
The carburetor must be removed and re-positioned in order to obtain proper throttle servo to arm alignment.

Note: The throttle and choke arms are oriented facing the engine head as seen in the picture below.

-Jeff

Just wanted to comment/clarify on this -- The re-positioning was just flipping the carb 180 degrees and installing the throttle control horn at the appropriate angle for where our throttle servo is located. This should put your tuning needles pointed toward the top of the airframe.

[JClark]

Here is the Vid of mine on the second flight.:198:

3D Hobby Shop 68" Velox on Vimeo

[flyinhigh025]

Here is the Vid of mine on the second flight.:198:

3D Hobby Shop 68" Velox on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/7788610)


Looks GREAT. BIG POWER!!!!

[Ramz]

Fuel Tank Installation:
Assemble your fuel tank and gas compatible hardware. We used a three line system: Fuel delivery line to carb, vent and fill lines.


Why the three lines? Any advantage over a 2 line system? I always use 2 lines and put a "T" in the fill/carb line. Less weight, less things to go wrong and lighter.

[flatspinjim]

Why the three lines? Any advantage over a 2 line system? I always use 2 lines and put a "T" in the fill/carb line. Less weight, less things to go wrong and lighter.


It's more of a personal preference. I like the 3 line system because you have a straight run from the clunk to the carb. I've seen 2 line systems develop an air leak at the tee. It doesn't happen a lot, but it can happen. Like I said, personal preference.

[flyinhigh025]

I have a 2-line "T" set-up in my 87" SHP. I agree with flatspinjim, really more of a personal preference. Both seem to work just fine.
-Jeff

[flyinhigh025]

Choke Control Rod Installation:

We bought a small length of threaded 4-40 rod at the local Ace Hardware and installed a DUBRO 4-40 ball link on the choke arm.

There is a number of different ways to run the choke control. I found it to be a nice clean installation running the control arm out the front of the cowling. See pictures below.

If anyone has pics of a different set-up, please post!

-Jeff

[flyinhigh025]

Cowling Cut and Mounting:

The Velox includes a cowling that utilizes an internal mounting ring I am more accustomed to seeing on larger GS kits, great touch! This makes accurate alignment and mounting very easy, the factory has done most of the work for us.

Using your preferred method, cut the cowling to clear the DLE 30 cylinder head and muffler. Then mount using supplied blind nuts and attaching hardware. The Dremel is our friend here...

A note on the spinner: Scott Stoops found a very nice line of light painted fiberglass spinners at Espirit Model.

Link: http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=618

-Jeff

[flyinhigh025]

Onboard Electronics Installation:

1) Receiver mounts nicely just behind the wing tube. Easy access here for plugging in aileron servo leads.

2) Main switch: Internal mounting just behind the receiver is a viable option for a clean install. The canopy is removed easily by simply disengaging the spring loaded hatch-latch, providing easy access to the switch.

3) Ignition pack can also be mounted in this area. We are using a Hyperion 850mAh 25C 2S Lipoly.

4) Ignition Regulator can be mounted in many different locations. We found a nice home on the structure just ahead of the wing tube. The tiny Smart Fly regulator is a great weight saving option.

5) Receiver Battery: I am a big fan of the A123 packs for my GS airplanes. The Velox is another great candidate for the A123's in my opinion. We mounted the A123 on a tray just behind the canopy. The farther back the better for optimizing the CG.

Note:
We are running the A123 -unregulated- to the receiver and servos.

-Jeff

[FireFighterFSFD]

68" Velox on Vimeo


3 things to point out.
when I say feels like a 40% I am reffering to the wing loading. this thing flys super light. of course a 40% can not hold up to the same punishment but the over all feel as the plane moves through the air feels alot of the same. which blows my mind for a plane this size and it not being electric.

another thing I wanted to point out is under 9 pounds without fuel. I did not use any switches, fuel dots, or ign bat. I also made my own stand offs to save on weight there. This is not that difficult. just use alum. bar stalk and cut it down to length then drill through from each end..

the last thing is it has not got 15 flights on the motor yet and really dont want to push my luck just to much until I get it broke in all the way. trust me I will have the thing on the deck in a matter of a few days I just want to let the rings set, and get a good feel for the plane.

As for my over all thoughts and feelings about the plane.... I love it. super easy to build, way affordable for someone wanting to try out the gas stuff, it has none of the bad habits most of the other planes out there have in this size. (when I say that I am refferring the stalling out and tracking)
The plane is a blast to fly but all I have done with it so far is fly it a few times to get the needles set where I want it, get some break in done, and find the cg I am happy with. I still have to work on my throttle curve and rates/mixes I did notice just a very little roll when you hit the rudder and it goes to the canopy one way and the gear the oppisite way, but not very much at all. on the last flight I added some up thrust and have not really decided If it will stay in it just yet.
I would strongly recommend this plane to someone wanting to try out a gas plane. the power is unreal. It has the highest power to weight ratio of any gas plane I have ever flown and probably most of the foamies.

[FireFighterFSFD]

Carburetor Position:
The carburetor must be removed and re-positioned in order to obtain proper throttle servo to arm alignment.

Note: The throttle and choke arms are oriented facing the engine head as seen in the picture below.

-Jeff


I thought about this myself. how ever one thing stopped me.
what are you doing for the pulse hole?

[flyinhigh025]

I thought about this myself. how ever one thing stopped me.
what are you doing for the pulse hole?

No changes to the carb have been made other than the orientation. What are your thoughts about the current position of the pulse hole?

Thanks!
Jeff

[Jkoch713]

If find that this plane flys soo well, and with limited WS and wing area....
I guess, sometimes that stuff doen't mean SH!T...

[sun.flyer]

If find that this plane flys soo well, and with limited WS and wing area....
I guess, sometimes that stuff doen't mean SH!T...


What? :199:

Tim

[sukhoi26mx]

If find that this plane flys soo well, and with limited WS and wing area....
I guess, sometimes that stuff doen't mean SH!T...Uh, yeah... What? Like Tim said. At 900 squares and 8-9 pounds, it is a cube loading of 8-9 which is pretty darned light.

Scott

[Zman1959]

Good thread Jeff and Tyler.. cant wait to pick mine up and get started !

[flyinhigh025]

I finally weighed the DLE30 powered 68" Velox... (AUW)

1) 68" Velox
2) 5x HS85MG's
3) 1x 2300 A123 (RX)
4) 1x 2S 850mAh Lipo (Ignition)
5) 14oz Fuel Tank (Empty)
6) Xoar Sword 20x6
7) 1oz lead on tail for neutral CG.
8) DLE30 (Stock Muffler)

Total AUW: 9.54 pounds.

-Jeff

[3DHobbyShop]

I put some (more) scuff marks on my electric one yesterday. I'm working on not puckering my bunghole during low rollers, and just having confidence and sticking with it. Going pretty well, but I did stuff it in the end. Good thing about keeping it low, damage is minimized.

YouTube- Broadcast Yourself.

[blackbeer]

LMAO Just too funny. My winter project was to learn to do rolling harriers. So far, no go. I just can't bring myself to crash a plane. I need to put together some junker and just do it I guess. Nice job man, I love your attitude...................

Tom

[3DHobbyShop]

IMO the EPP yak is the way to learn rollers. Crash it, throw it up again, crash it, throw it up again, repeat as necessary. Makes learning the "stick stir" a lot less expensive.

[sukhoi26mx]

IMO the EPP yak is the way to learn rollers. Crash it, throw it up again, crash it, throw it up again, repeat as necessary. Makes learning the "stick stir" a lot less expensive.Absolutely.

[blackbeer]

Ya I have one of those, a foamy Yak that is. I just have this mental block when it comes to lectrics. It's all built and sitting in my shop but I haven't rigged up the esc, rx, lipo, stuff. I'm sure it's just old age, or old dog, or something like that. I gotta have noise and stink to make it right.....................

Tom

[3DHobbyShop]

Nah, think of it as a tool, just a tool. Also, IMO, the one you want is the bouncy rubber one -

www.3DEPP.com (http://www.3DEPP.com)

[blackbeer]

Wait a minute, the stupidity of my last statement just hit me. I mean the dang Yak is built and all I have to do is hook stuff up. The tool idea is one I am dealing with more and more now that I am into IMAC. It has changed the whole way I look at an airframe. Anyway, thanks for the kick in the a$$, I need to get her done.....................

Tom

[3DHobbyShop]

There ya go. You'll be doing rollers on big planes by Summer.

[flyinhigh025]

I have gone through at least 20 GWS 9x4.7's on my 3DEPP quest for the low rolling harrier... :199:

Getting better! :209:

Jeff

[JClark]

Some vid from yesturday.:209:
3D Hobby Shop 68" Velox 4 on Vimeo

[heligrom]

hey ben,

you know then invented these new, more stylish headphones then those over ear ones? just saying.....nice flying though. if it's all in the headphones, im gonna have to buy me a pair