Stupid Newbie ?'s

[Capt. Caucasian]

I just got my first DA-50 the other day and I have started breaking it in per the instructions. The only thing I don't understand is setting the mixture. Are the needles preset to the desired setting for break in or do I need to enrich them myself? BTW, the engine seems to run just fine as is however, it only has about a half tank through it and has not been flown.

Thanks
JT

[Twizlair]

The needle settings from the factory are usually pretty good. For break in just make sure you are not lean on the top end the needle furtherest away from the motor. Then remember to change the load on hte engine frequently during flight by not flying around at the same throttle setting for long periods of time. Fly pretty conservative for the first gallon then you can start to have more fun after five gallons let her rip.

[Dangerous Dan]

ritchen the high end until it burbles a lot then lean it until it just burbles every three seconds or so.

then adjust the low end until you get a decent transistion leaning tword the rich side.

fly 5 gallons

Once broken in tune it as per mfg directions.

What I look for after break-in is no burble at full throttle and the motor gets a tiny bit stronger on an upline(leans), the low end is set for optimal transisition and minimual burble mid range. if the motor sags on an upline it is too lean.

It is easy to tune glow motors on the ground, but with warboro-titilson etc.. carbs. on gas engines you need to do your final tuning in flight, the dynamics of the air through the cowell effetce how the diaFRAMS IN THE CABERATOR WORK

[JimC-MD]

Are you bench running this engine? If so, it is not required or suggested by any information that I have. The needles are most likely in a good position from the factory and you should notice the burble at upper throttle settings. You should see some black oily residue from the exhaust and likely spots on the bottom of the plane during break in. These are indication or confirmation of rich exhaust. Vary the load as described above and avoid sustained WOT during break in.

Breaking in in the air provides better air flow/cooling provided the cowl venting is correct. It is also less annoying and more enjoyable.

[GremlinX]

I have a few DA 50's and a DA 100 now. When I first got my 50, there was nobody to help me. It was my first gasser. Though I have a ton of experience in Karting tuning very high performance motors, I was not sure where to start with it. I called DA after a couple of flights. I was scared to adjust much on the needles because everybody talks about how the "stock settings are fine". No way. It was 4 cycling so bad it was very rich in the air..... like.... very rich. I called and asked them about it. I am pretty sure it was Brian "Huff" that I spoke to. Keep leaning out (clockwise) on the low end in the pits until it will NOT make a transition. Then, back it off just enough until it is crisp. Then, lean the 4 cycle out of the top end... and be done with it for life. I followed that simple procedure and have had many hours of trouble free flying... 6 flips. 3 till it pops, choke off, then 3 and it is running....

DO NOT RUN THIS THING ON A BENCH.... Test Bench Break in DA 100 Big Problem

Please please and please.... Not to grill Vernon, because he is a good dude and made a very simple and honest(real honest) mistake.