BME 110 prop hub

[sapca]

Hello Dudes,

Can sommebody tell me how to take off the prop hub from the BME 110.

technical drawings ???

Regards

Sapca

[KrisW]

	Quote: Originally Posted by sapca
	Hello Dudes, Can sommebody tell me how to take off the prop hub from the BME 110. technical drawings ??? Regards Sapca

I could. . but then I'd have to kill you.

It pulls off. No technical drawings necessary, but it does take a special puller, and reinstalling it is kind of an art, since if you pre-load the bearings improperly you will fry them.

Now. . WHY do you want to pull it off. . I can't think of anything that would make removal of the prop hub a necessity, short of major damage to the engine.

[bodywerks]

removing the prop hub will also void the warranty. I had to send mine in to get the multibolt hub installed because Keith said that was the only way he'd sell me one. If you need to get that deep into dissasembling this engine, send it in. Keith's turnaround is very quick right now.

[sapca]

Hi Kris,

I was thinking of making a hub with more treat for the propbolds.

regards

Sapca

[ernie58]

Is the bolt pattern on the new hub the same has DA/3W? I own both and its a pain (and costly) that they can't share the same prop inventory.

Another question for the BME experts: What's it take to upgrade a 105 to the 110?

[sapca]

Yes, the bolt pattern on the BME is the same as from the Da and 3w 106

Regards

[bodywerks]

and ZDZ

[KrisW]

	Quote: Originally Posted by sapca
	Hi Kris, I was thinking of making a hub with more treat for the propbolds. regards Sapca

Sapca, you do not NEED more "meat" for the 6-bolt patterns, there is plenty there to get the job done.

The BME uses BOTH bolt patterns for the 3W/DA/ZDZ engines . .both large and small pattern. Soo. . . you could feasibly use anti-rotation "pins" n one bolt circle, and then use bolts in the other circle, AND use the center stud after that!!

Given the tremendous power of the BME 110/115 engines, I highly recommend not only using 6 pins, and 6 bolts, but also aircraft grade epoxy between all mating surfaces to ensure it cannot spin. Bolts are just NOT strong enough with an engine this powerful!!!!!


BTW . .for everyone who does not already know. . the bolt threads for the BME hubs is 10-32. . NOT 5mm!!!!!

Using 5mm will damage the hub

[Hinckley Bill]

Given the tremendous power of the BME 110/115 engines, I highly recommend not only using 6 pins, and 6 bolts, but also aircraft grade epoxy between all mating surfaces to ensure it cannot spin. Bolts are just NOT strong enough with an engine this powerful!!!!!

Hey KrisW

Sorry for being so slow this morning but would you mind elaborating on the use of aircraft grade epoxy (see quote above from your earlier reply to sapca) over and above the 6 pins and 6 bolts?

Thx,

Bill

[KrisW]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Hinckley Bill
	Given the tremendous power of the BME 110/115 engines, I highly recommend not only using 6 pins, and 6 bolts, but also aircraft grade epoxy between all mating surfaces to ensure it cannot spin. Bolts are just NOT strong enough with an engine this powerful!!!!! Hey KrisW Sorry for being so slow this morning but would you mind elaborating on the use of aircraft grade epoxy (see quote above from your earlier reply to sapca) over and above the 6 pins and 6 bolts? Thx, Bill

It's a joke Bill .. just a joke.

But, in the past, to prevent prop slippage on spinner backplates, I have actually resorted to using Thick CA between the backplate and prop, then tightened the nut and allowed the CA to set up for 5 minutes, before flipping the prop and going flying. It never failed to hold the prop in place.

Actually, with the center bolt/stud applying very good pressure, it's only necessary to have 2-3 10-32 bolts passing through the prop and screwing into the prop hub, to eliminate the possibility of slippage. 6 is overkill in this application, if the center nut is properly tightened, but I still use 6 with the new style hub.