FPE 5.8 problems NEED HELP!!!

[Huckeneer]

I have a First Place 5.8 that has been running fine until the last couple attempts. I have 7 flights on it, and then one day it just would not run. It seems to be running on the choked fuel and isn't sucking in the fuel from the tank. But it IS RUNNING on the fuel from the choke. It will run fine for the second fuel that is in it from the choke. I talked to First Place and I had a "T" setup in my fuel line I think it was Dubro? and they were convinced that that was leeking air and giving me the problem... So i took that out and redirected the line and it still does the same thing. Its still running on the choke. So i talked to some more people and they think there is probably a piece of dirt in the Carborator? What do you guys think it is? How do I fix it? Do I need a new Carborator? If i need work done do I have to send it in to First Place or is there stores close to me like tractor supply?

I was thinking if it was dirt in the carborator can I clean it? Could i blow compressed air in it or something?

I need help, because now my New Aeroworks Edge 540T Is sitting collecting dust with the engine not running.

Jamie

[Neogenesis]

disassemble carefully.....clean all parts and reassemble. While your at it you might as well get a rebuild kit. That would most likely fix your problems if it is in fact dirt in the carb.



Neo

[Westbender]

What exactly do you mean by "Its still running on the choke"? Does it throttle up and tend to run "normally"? Or does it just run for a second or two and then die? If it throttles up and seems to run "normally", then your understanding of how the choke works is backwards. Is it possible you have the choke "off", but you think it's "on"? Can you see the carb venturi to visually determine if the choke is open or closed? Sorry, I don't mean to offend with such a suggestion, but sometimes the simple things can be overlooked.

Do you have an open vent line to the tank? I use three-line systems and I usually put a plug in the open vent hose that hangs under the plane. This is to prevent any left-over fuel in that line from dripping out in the trailer. If I forget to remove the plug, the engine can't pull fuel from the tank because of the vacuum it produces. Causes the same exact symptom. If for any reason, you don't have an open vent line, your problem is what will happen. Check your plumbing again to make sure.

We typically start our engines at low throttle settings only. So we rely mainly on the low-speed needle when starting. It's possible that the weather conditions have changed enough since you've flown last that your low-speed needle is now too lean. Try opening the low-speed needle a bit and see if that will do it. If you know the factory needle settings, set the low to the this position and give it a try. If you don't know the factory settings then just try opening it 1/4 to 1/2 turn and give it a try. chances are that'll be rich, but at least it will show if that is the problem or rule it out if it's not.

After reading your post one more time, I have another question. Your comment, "It seems to be running on the choked fuel and isn't sucking in the fuel from the tank. But it IS RUNNING on the fuel from the choke.", makes it sounds like you're possibly squirting fuel into the carb to "prime" it. Is that right? Because when you "choke" an engine, the carb draws fuel through the same line that it does when it runs with the choke off. Either you're doing something different, your carb is plumbed very strangely, or you're not fully understanding how a choke actually works. Can you elaborate more how your "choking" the engine?

[Westbender]

Ok, just looked at FPE's website. The carb on your engine is of the standard "walbro-type" variety with a built-in choke. I assume you're using the built-in choke to start it.

By the way, I see that the factory setting for the low-speed needle is 1 3/4 turns out. If you're getting the motor to "kick" with the built-in choke, then we know that you're pulling fuel from the tank. Chances are good that the low-speed needle is too lean. Reset it to the 1 3/4 position and give it a try. If you continue to have the same problem, then there's a problem with the carb and it needs cleaned or rebuilt.


By the way, I have two FPE 2.4's. Kurt makes great little engines. I'm sure you'll be happy with your 5.8 once you get it dialed in.

[youngflyer]

hmm also what about the diaphram sp? you could also get a new barb for like 60!

[Huckeneer]

When i go to start the engine. I turn everything on and FLIP the choke on. I flip the prop over about 5-6 times and then it fires. Then i turn the choke off, and flip it over 5-6 times, by then it fires and will run for like a second and stops. I flip it over some more and the next flip it runs for a second and stops, and then the run time on the flips slowly lessens to the point that i have to choke again. Now I don't know if this is a "built" in choke, but I do have a little switch that i have to flip to choke it. It does want to run it seems, but it just doesnt run for more than a second. Does this help you guys? I will check the plumbing again and see if i can spot anything of the obvious.

Jamie

[Westbender]

Open the low-speed needle a little. I bet that will do it.

[Huckeneer]

Wll i tried all of those and I called First Place. They think its the Ignition which is screwing up the timing. What do you guys think of that?

[Huckeneer]

is there such a thing about having too big of a battery? I just realized that it has never ran with a new 4.8 volt 4000mah battery.

Jamie

[rcign]

A Walbro carb in good shape and assembled correctly will pump fuel at least 4 feet straight up...Running for a few seconds after the choke is opened is the classic symptom of a blocked pulse hole.....Choking the carb draws fuel directly from the tank to the crankcase and is a separate function from the pump...the pump works only after the engine starts, filling cavity under the diaphragm..Air going through the carb venturi pulls fuel from this cavity through the 3 small holes in the venturi according to the low needle setting, and through the high speed nozzle according to the high speed needle setting...
If the pulse hole under the carb through the insulator block is plugged the engine will never pump fuel and keep running...
If the diaphragm is at all stiff it can't function properly...A rebuild kit is about $5..
No such thing as a battery that's too big....

[ram3500-rcu]

If it ran fine and then didn't, the first thing I would check is the crap trap in the carb. Take the cover plate off and carefully pull the little screen out by using an exacto knife against the side wall, and clean it. If it is full of crap, the engine will not want to run unless choked. I have had this happen. When I have the symptoms you describe, I check this first BEFORE I start fooling with adjustments and such.