Bolt Length and size

[accaptain]

What bolt size did you guys use to mount the engine (DA100) with the 1.5 inch spacers? I figure I at least need a 2.5 inch long bolt but what size and do you guys normally run 1/4"? I am assuming the bolt goes through with a lock nut on the firewall side? Just got my motor I LOVE WHEN UPS COMES!! I wanted to go to lowes tonight and get some bolts!

[accaptain]

Never mind on the size I see it takes 1/4" bolts with lock washers on the firewall side. (I should have looked in the manual) sorry.What length bolt should I get?

Also does everyone unhook the throttle spring or leave it on?

Thanks,
Accaptain

[accaptain]

I went to Lowes but couldn't find anything but a 1/4 20 in a hex head bolt. I went ahead and got them in 3" length. Only problem is that my pspmfg spacers won't accept a 1/4" bolt. They will only accept a #10 screw. I was going to use these hex head bolts from the backside through the firewall, standoffs and engine with a lock washer and nut on the motor side (anybody mount there's this way?). Should I drill out the spacer to accept a 1/4" bolt or just try to order the #10 screws from psp's site. I wish I would have know but I didn't order the standoffs through Pspmfg but through TBM. I guess my only other concern is that the bottom two bolts for the engine ride really close to the bottom of the engine box which may cause the hex part of the bolt to hit the bottom of it. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Accaptain

[Reza]

The spacers that TBM sells are really thined wall at least the ones I saw a friend of mine got wasn't good enough to be drilled for a bigger size. You can get Du-Bro 1/4" 20 by 2.5" long socket cap screws. I would get new set of stand offs from Don's hobbyshop, he also has got the 2.5" dubro bolts. I'd like to recommend blind nuts just like the manual. I would suggest you do it same way as I did in the manual. Don't make it more complicated. See if you can return the spacers to TBM or just keep it for another application. If you still want to use what you have then I guess you need to get the #10 screws. As far as hex part hitting the bottom is also possible. Do the blind nuts and cut the lips a little just like I've shown.

It's better to do it right than make something to work.

Email me if I can be of any help.

Reza Gh.

[accaptain]

Will do, I guess now that the motor arrived I am getting antsy. I will try to contact Dons Hobbies. Thanks for kicking me back into shape Reza!!

[TheTank]

go to your local hardware store too, Lowes and Home Cheap-O arent good for hardware selection. Get some 1/4-20 steel socket head cap screws with washers and nylon-insert locknuts.

[Reza]

That's Great! Keep me posted on the progress.

Reza

[Shakes]

I bought my standoffs, screws, etc from Don's as well. I can't remember the length bolts he sent but we figured up what I needed and he also recommended nylock nuts on the back of the the screws. So, mine goes through the engine, through the spacers, into the blind nuts cut per the manual and backed with the nylocks putting back pressure on the screw. Everything got loctite so my firewall should come off before a bolt loosens up.

[Reza]

Shakes,
bolt size is 2 1/2". BTW, you might as well weld the bolts to the blind nuts and then use the nylock nuts. this way probably is safer, right!?

	Quote: Originally Posted by Shakes
	I bought my standoffs, screws, etc from Don's as well. I can't remember the length bolts he sent but we figured up what I needed and he also recommended nylock nuts on the back of the the screws. So, mine goes through the engine, through the spacers, into the blind nuts cut per the manual and backed with the nylocks putting back pressure on the screw. Everything got loctite so my firewall should come off before a bolt loosens up.

[accaptain]

I found the Dubro 1/4" 2 1/2 inch bolts at the LHS today and I ordered the 1.5 inch standoffs for 1/4". I just hate when I order stuff, it comes in then won't work. I feel like I would pay just as much shipping these incorrect ones back as what I paid for them in the first place. Savings = NONE

Hey Reza another question for ya, Call me dumb or what ever, I just want to be correct. The manual says when mounting the engine to match up the template with the top of the motor box. Is this with or without the top plate on the motor box? I could not tell in the photo. I know either way it wouldn't be off by much I just don't want to drill them incorrectly. (Maybe I need the new QQ YAK (QB) when it comes out) LOL.

[Reza]

As a matter of fact it's a great question.
Yes that does include the top plate. The original dimension in the old manual didn't include the top plate because you had to glue the top plate after engine is installed. Since the GenII come with top plate already glued, I made the template to include the top plate. It's a lot easier for you to make flush with top plate than otherwise.

This plane is one of the easy ones to build. The 85" was harder plane to build than the 102".

Let me know if you have any questions.
Reza

	Quote: Originally Posted by accaptain
	I found the Dubro 1/4" 2 1/2 inch bolts at the LHS today and I ordered the 1.5 inch standoffs for 1/4". I just hate when I order stuff, it comes in then won't work. I feel like I would pay just as much shipping these incorrect ones back as what I paid for them in the first place. Savings = NONE Hey Reza another question for ya, Call me dumb or what ever, I just want to be correct. The manual says when mounting the engine to match up the template with the top of the motor box. Is this with or without the top plate on the motor box? I could not tell in the photo. I know either way it wouldn't be off by much I just don't want to drill them incorrectly. (Maybe I need the new QQ YAK (QB) when it comes out) LOL.

[accaptain]

Thanks!