Painting vs Monocoat?

[Pittsflyboy]

Hey guys,

Years ago we used to paint all out pattern planes, now monocoat is the standard practice.

I don't much like monocoat, so, with painting as a option I'm considering painting my 35% Carden Extra 330 using PPG K36 high build primer, most of it would be sanded off to fill all the pores, etc, seal with DP primer and paint with base coat clear coat or pehaps use single stage paint. My main question is what would the weight difference be?

What are your favorite painting technics?

Tom

[MikeC3D]

Dude, you need to talk to Bob(Sensei), hes the silk and dope guru around here. But I can tell you that there will be a significant weight increase, we talked about this alot b4 covering my 40% yak, but the whole purpose for the project was weight reduction, it would have added @ another 3lbs back to my plane, versus monocote. It is what I used on my motor box to seal it up, it last longer than plastic covering and the dope is fuel proof. As much as it sucks to do, you just cant get lighter than monocote. On the other hand, you cant get a better finish than fabric and paint. Talk to Bob.....

[sensei]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Pittsflyboy
	Hey guys, Years ago we used to paint all out pattern planes, now monocoat is the standard practice. I don't much like monocoat, so, with painting as a option I'm considering painting my 35% Carden Extra 330 using PPG K36 high build primer, most of it would be sanded off to fill all the pores, etc, seal with DP primer and paint with base coat clear coat or pehaps use single stage paint. My main question is what would the weight difference be? What are your favorite painting technics? Tom

The lightest paint option would be: On solid surfaces use 1/2 oz. glass cloth and Minwax varithane for application of the glass,and on open bay if you have any; silk and dope. You have to place this on the surface of you wood prior to finishing because your fiinish will swell back into the wood and look like sh#% in short order. On a 35% you will only add between 1 and 1.5 lbs.more weight over Monokote if you remove most of your high build primer, and go easy on the clearcoat; while still maintainimg the same finish qualities as Monokote. The upside to this is you will never have to re-tighten your airplane. If you lighten your airplane prior to covering; you can come in at the same weight as your stock build with Monokote. Bob

[MikeC3D]

[crhammond]

	Quote: Originally Posted by sensei
	The lightest paint option would be: On solid surfaces use 1/2 oz. glass cloth and Minwax varithane for application of the glass,and on open bay if you have any; silk and dope. You have to place this on the surface of you wood prior to finishing because your fiinish will swell back into the wood and look like sh#% in short order. On a 35% you will only add between 1 and 1.5 lbs.more weight over Monokote if you remove most of your high build primer, and go easy on the clearcoat; while still maintainimg the same finish qualities as Monokote. The upside to this is you will never have to re-tighten your airplane. If you lighten your airplane prior to covering; you can come in at the same weight as your stock build with Monokote. Bob

Bob - any tips on how to apply the Minwax Varithane? Is it really that much lighter than thinned resin?

On my pattern planes I am using .7oz cloth with finishing resin thinned 50% with acetone. I wet the cloth out using a brush and remove ALL excess. I try only to wet it and not fill the weave at all. In about 3 hrs when the the resin "kicks" and gets tacky I use micro balloons rubbed on to fill the weave. When done right you don't even need a high-build primer - just normal primer and sand 95% of it off. I have been practicing this on some sheeting in prep for building 2 new pattern planes this winter.

Silkspan and dope on the wings is lighter still I've read.

I am seriously considering doing a 40% this way. I would take weight off to begin with and hope to land at around the standard weight. I am thinking of a Dalton MEL. It will be for IMAC so I don't mind carrying a little extra weight especially in windy conditions. Paint would be Nelson System-3 with some kind of clear (maybe theirs, maybe PPG if it is compatible.)

I have had both wood and composite planes. I really like how easy it is to repair wood (adding little or no weight) but I vastly prefer a painted surface. I cannot cover to save myself but I can paint okay.

Chris.

[jdearduff]

You said what the problem was. Monocoat is crap. Go with Ultracoat and you would be much better off.

[sensei]

	Quote: Originally Posted by crhammond
	Bob - any tips on how to apply the Minwax Varithane? Is it really that much lighter than thinned resin? On my pattern planes I am using .7oz cloth with finishing resin thinned 50% with acetone. I wet the cloth out using a brush and remove ALL excess. I try only to wet it and not fill the weave at all. In about 3 hrs when the the resin "kicks" and gets tacky I use micro balloons rubbed on to fill the weave. When done right you don't even need a high-build primer - just normal primer and sand 95% of it off. I have been practicing this on some sheeting in prep for building 2 new pattern planes this winter. Silkspan and dope on the wings is lighter still I've read. I am seriously considering doing a 40% this way. I would take weight off to begin with and hope to land at around the standard weight. I am thinking of a Dalton MEL. It will be for IMAC so I don't mind carrying a little extra weight especially in windy conditions. Paint would be Nelson System-3 with some kind of clear (maybe theirs, maybe PPG if it is compatible.) I have had both wood and composite planes. I really like how easy it is to repair wood (adding little or no weight) but I vastly prefer a painted surface. I cannot cover to save myself but I can paint okay. Chris.

On the foam sheeted areas; you seal the balsa with a couple of coats of dope, and allow to dry, scuff lightly with 1500 grit and lay down the 1/2 oz. cloth. Next just brush the varithane over the cloth and allow to dry. scuff with 1500 and apply a second coat of varithane, at this point you can rub the micro ballons or baby powder on the surface as a filler and sand later. You can do this a couple of times to acheive a primer ready surface. The dope and urithane are both single component air dry systems so there is no mixing and most of their weight once dry leaves the surface.I have done this on many 33-40 % airframes and the performance of the finish was always much better than anything plastic that you can iron on. The only topcoat I will use on this type covering is Dupont's Croma Systems base coat, clear coat. Keep in mind that there is a weight penalty for this so building light is a must. Bob

[ILLUSION258]

MONOKOTE DOESNT LOOK AS NICE AS COMPOSITE MONOKOTE RENKLES