monocote edging

[flyjay77]

I am wanting to but two colors together in the midle of a open bay on a fusalage., what is the best way to do this ,. should I run one color all the way to the next bay than over lap the next color half way , tacking to the top of the first color ? the colors run from nose to tail ..

Please help ,

Jason,

[sweetpea]

Always easier to cover the entire gap with the lighter color and then put the darker over the hole. If the colors bleed through too much than cover the gap with white or clear and then butt your colors up against each other ontop of that.

Trying to put them together over the opening with nothing under is going to be real difficult.

[flyjay77]

that was kind of what I was thinking , I am useing matalic blue and silver .. I dont think I would get much bleed through with eather color , what are your views ,,

[zx32tt]

If I had to do it, I'd probably join the two colors before actually covering the plane. Depending on how big the area was, you could do it with monocote trim solvent, or just very low heat over a glass surface. The main thing to do is not to use high heat or heavy shrinking in the area of the join. Let us know how it goes.
zx32tt

[as722]

	Quote: Originally Posted by zx32tt
	If I had to do it, I'd probably join the two colors before actually covering the plane. Depending on how big the area was, you could do it with monocote trim solvent, or just very low heat over a glass surface. The main thing to do is not to use high heat or heavy shrinking in the area of the join. Let us know how it goes. zx32tt

Agree !

[citrus]

Yep, on a piece of glass or mirror join the two pieces first with about a 1/4 inch overlap and then put that on the airplane.

Chris

[Walt]

I have done the glass method and found its hard to get enough heat on the overlapped film to get a good seal on the seam. If you are able to get the monokote off the glass with the 2 pieces seamed and it stays together you'll be lucky. I've cracked glass from all the iron heat just getting the seams together and still had it separate pulling the covering off the glass. If you do get it stuck run trim solvent on the edge of the seam with a Q tip while its still on the glass, you'll have a chance. It will go together but if you apply heat later on it generall pulls on the seam and will actually open it up leaving a real mess. If you want to insure this doesn't happen run a 1/8th x 3/8th's balsa strip down the seam location on the open bay for something to burn down the seam onto, Something like a cap strip. Still kinda tedious but it works and may save future issues with a reshrink or touch up with a heat gun or iron..I am a far cry from a covering guru but the balsa strip method is what I would do if I was bent on seaming covering over an open bay...Walt

[MikeC3D]

Here is an idea that we have been doing recently with great result.
Just cover your wing completely with your main color, then cut your trim/edging pieces however you want them, and then just spray windex on the wing and FLOAT the trim/graphic on over the existing monocote, it is very easy to do and it allows you to align it perfectly. That way there is no issue when tightening that the seam pulls apart, there is no seem.... We have also been doing this with clear monocote on hinge gaps and it is the easiest way to do it, It works for us , JMO.

[ULTIMATE1]

I lay my covering out on a large mirror on my building table with 3/8inch overlap and rather than use a iron I use MONOKOTE TRIM SEAL with a "Q" tip cotton swab and very carefully not to wet run the swap under the overlap and press down with a paper towel. Now the hardest part DON"T touch it for 24 hours just like the instructions on the bottle say. You will then have a piece joined perfectly as if it were one and nothing has had any heat to distort it. Now when you apply the piece to the plane even over open framework it shrinks evenly as it has not been preshrunk by the heat of a sealing iron along the seam.Couple pics of a Goldberg Extra 300 I did in Clint McHenry scheme years ago all over open framework! So there is more than one way to skin a cat as the saying goes!

[cgav8r]

I have had success overlapping covering without support behind it. I put on the first layer and shrink it with a iron just to where its tight then cut the overlapping piece a 1/4" or so. If you can get to the glue side of the covering just use your fingers to lightly support the covering while you hit the overlap with the iron. If you can't get to the glue side of the covering just use the iron to press lightly on the seem. It's worked for me.

Aaron D.

[flyjay77]

i have never used the trim solvent , How does it work ? is it like glueing it together ?

[zoomer260]

	Quote: Originally Posted by MikeC3D
	Here is an idea that we have been doing recently with great result. Just cover your wing completely with your main color, then cut your trim/edging pieces however you want them, and then just spray windex on the wing and FLOAT the trim/graphic on over the existing monocote, it is very easy to do and it allows you to align it perfectly. That way there is no issue when tightening that the seam pulls apart, there is no seem.... We have also been doing this with clear monocote on hinge gaps and it is the easiest way to do it, It works for us , JMO.

I'm no expert and far from a covering Guru. That's why this is the best way for me. It works, works well and any weight penalty measured in grams is for the guys that buy titanium screws.