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| Profile Talk! Discuss the ins and outs of profiles here. Show off your setup, and help our Crew! |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() Join Date: May 2006 Location: Lincoln Nebraska (Husker Nation)
Posts: 53
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I've been working on my Fusion and having a great time with it. I glued the fuse sheeting to the foam core one side at a time. The first one came out fine, but the second one, when it was all done, the fuse was warped...don't ask me why. So I am wondering what everybodies techniques are to get rid of a warp to fome core fuse. or can itr be removed ? Any suggestios would be great. Thanks Ben Dilley |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Mythbuster-- the early years ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Whidbey Island, WA Age: 33
Posts: 4,359
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Typically when you have a warp you must push the opposite way some amount. Otherwise the warp will not go back to nuetral. So say you are warped left. You need to hold it back to the right past nuetral. That way when you relax it should be at nuetral |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| AKA Johnny Sabre ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Pro Bro City, TN Age: 45
Posts: 157
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This has worked for me in the past. Maybe it will help you. 1. Locate the most severe area of the bow. For purposes of this discussion, let's say it is about 3/4 of the way from front to back looking down the fuse from the nose on the right side. 2. Lay fuse on a flat surface bow-side down. Let's say that it's about a 1/8" differentiation from straight and flat. 3. With the bow-side down, wet the crown side thoroughly with warm water from a spray bottle or a rag. If you have a sheetrock building surface, put down some wax paper or something to keep from messing up your sheetrock. 4. Find a 1/4" or 3/8" stick and place it under the fuse either in front of or behind the most severe area of the bow. This will take a little trial and error, you will need to find the location that best allows the fuse to bend back to straight when weight is applied. 5. Once you find the sweet spot, lay a nice flat piece of wood or MDF over the entire fuse and apply weight. ***BE CAREFUL HERE**** Too much weight coupled with too much block up of wood will cause you to snap a fuse. On my 40 sized profiles, I typically use a 50 pound weight. Now wait. Go do something for a day or two. Come back and see your progress. Sometimes it may take several tries, but you can usually get it back to "pretty doggone" straight. PS - I know many build manuals suggest different sequences for sheeting foam fuses. In my opinion, whenever possible BOTH sides should be sheeted at the same time. This may take a little advanced planning, but can usually be worked out. My thinking is if you sheet the sides in two seperate steps, you are increasing the potential for different climate, glue bed, and cure times - all of which contribute to the torsional effects that occur when that slab is setting up. If you can do it all at one time, it should seriously reduce the chances of something going wrong. Sorry to be long winded. Hope that helps out. J. |
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