NEW V2 3W CAST ALLOY INDUCTION BLOCK

[3dubya]

I put the latest induction block (Left in Pic) other night, stuck me Top needle out at 1 turn, and bottom out at 2. All i can say is wow, with a stack of fuel going in it it don't bog down on throttle up during transition. This is a must have for all 3Ws 106-157-170-210cc. Makes them really easy to tune with a over rich buffer. Ive always found CS motors hard to get perfect in tune cause they need heaps of fuel, which causes other ground running probs, this makes tuning one a hole lot simpler. I ran the V1 alloy block without much improvement so dont get new one confused with it (middle pic). (note: when you pu new cast alloy block in make sure to remove the old metal spacer. The reed will sit 2mm closer to crank, dont worrie it wont hit)

[3dubya]

This is how i create the extra gasket i put in above reed cage plate, the vulcanized rubber never really creates perfect seal for area, which promotes overtightening of assembly.

[plaster93]

Looks the same as the V1 block, besides those reliefs in the side.

[cloudshaker]

I'd like to see 3W make something like this for their single cylinder engines as well. I've got one that loads up and quits on landing. I believe your right with them needing lots of fuel.

[3dubya]

	Quote: Originally Posted by plaster93
	Looks the same as the V1 block, besides those reliefs in the side.

They filled the problem area with a curved surface and really drop the dead chamber areas by about 80%, the big lip chamber down where reed screws is gone which completely gets rid of inverted load up and knife edge fuel pooling on over rich settings.

[3dubya]

	Quote: Originally Posted by cloudshaker
	I'd like to see 3W make something like this for their single cylinder engines as well. I've got one that loads up and quits on landing. I believe your right with them needing lots of fuel.

Thats the 80xi right, thats because of vibration shaking (motor box aint strong enough), they rev at 3000 revs then drop of it suddenly. To see the difference mount your motor on a really solid test stand and you will see the motor run perfect.

[wgdenge]

So, are you selling these?
I have a 106QS that could use this, and a new 170CS too.
The 170 has not run yet.. 1st run this weekend.

[Surly_Schmidt]

When will new motors have them?

[3dubya]

	Quote: Originally Posted by wgdenge
	So, are you selling these? I have a 106QS that could use this, and a new 170CS too. The 170 has not run yet.. 1st run this weekend.

No im a user not a seller, Get it changed truste me before you run 170 , where did you buy it..

[3dubya]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Surly_Schmidt
	When will new motors have them?

Yes all motors from factory have it, but dont mean you cant buy old version from shop stock by mistake..

[Jcarte]

	Quote: Originally Posted by wgdenge
	So, are you selling these? I have a 106QS that could use this, and a new 170CS too. The 170 has not run yet.. 1st run this weekend.

Nothing like fixing a new motor huh Wayne. Get a new ignition from C&H, they will install and test run it for you for $150.

[3dubya]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Jcarte
	Nothing like fixing a new motor huh Wayne. Get a new ignition from C&H, they will install and test run it for you for $150.

the 3W ignition works perfect, the brand new ignitions with Kevlar in leeds have amazing durability, that C&H mod makes no sense to me, "fixing" is a weird word to use, its and improvement not a fix.