Deans connector issues (EQ-10)

[BTerry]

Robert,

Yesterday I went out the run the engine on my new plane. It has the EQ-10 and I run dual A123's and the soft switch.

I found the Deans plugs have an intermittent connection. It was so bad the vibration from the engine could cause a total power shutdown of the system. When I wiggle the battery wires side to side the system loses power.

Could there be a problem with the plugs themselves? I thought about trying to bend the spring slightly to increase pressure between the contact plates but thought I would try here first.

I also tried spraying some contact cleaner on the plugs and that eliminated the problem, until the cleaner evaporated and then the problem returned.

Obviously I will not fly the plane in this condition. I am down anyhow waiting for a carb rebuild kit.

Is this a problem you have seen before with the Deans plugs? It almost seems the connection would be more stable if they were mounted to a short jumper, or even replaced altogether with EC3 plugs (which contact between the ID/OD of cylinders vice the side-to-side plates of the Deans).

Let me know what you think. Thanks!

Brett

p.s. I love the unit so far, so I am anxious to see a resolution.

[capcanuck]

First I'd check your Deans connectors solder joints and if they are good I would return the EQ10 for service or replacement. No way you should ever get intermittant contact. I have the EQ6 Turbo plus in my DA150 powered Extra 300 and I noticed that my connectors were vibrating off so I have tie wrapped the connectors onto the SmartFly Unit, and I connect my batteries further downline. I also didn't like taking them off the EQ6 every time I was done for the day. Too much wear and too much possible flexing of the board for my liking.
I do wish Smartfly and other power box people would put some sort of lock for connectors so they can't vibrate loose. I had one elevator connector come off the SmartFly power expander in my Aeroworks Extra once which wasn't fun at all (demo flight of course at our fun fly) so now I use tie wraps and silicone to make sure these dont vibrate loose.

CapCanuck

[2walla]

Usually the problem you are describing is from bad soldering overheating the plug and melting the housing slighlty. Look at them closely.. You may see that this is the cause.

[HuckinChikn]

funny that this came up, i JUST got back from the field, and there was a dude down there with
a t-28 trojan foamy. he was running 2100mah 3S lipos, but one of the batteries would intermittenly
cut out, and he couldnt figure out why. well we figured out that the problem was in the deans plug itself.
wierd! i've never had any problems with deans before, this is definately something new to me!

[reyn3545]

There are also a TON of "deans style" connectors being sold through internet hobby shops... They look the same, and a"real" deans will plug into them (usually not a great fit), but they are cheap knock-offs from overseas... always be sure to ask for genuine Deans connectors!

BTW, speaking of the foamy Trojan... I put a Scorpion 1090 kv motor on mine this weekend... it's a completely different plane! It was a fun slow flyer last week, now it's a fun slow flyer with unlimited vertical! Best $60 I've spent in a while.

[HuckinChikn]

you know what, thats exactly the problem....it was a hobby city battery from china!
its too dang bad that people copy the design and claim them as true deans plugs....
i've NEVER had any problems with a TRUE deans.

[rrritchey]

Hi,
This is usually a problem with the battery connector. I just got a TurboReg back from a guy that swore both Deans connectors were bad, when he wiggled the battery connector they would cut out. I checked this unit out with real Deans females that were soldered correctly (not too much heat for too long) and they both worked just fine. I could not get them to go intermittent no matter how much I pushed and shoved on the connection. Usually the problem is Deans knock-offs from China or the heavy wire was soldered onto the female with too much and too long heat applied. Deans are sensitive to too much heat applied for too long. You have to pre-tin the Deans, then pre-tin the wire. You want a very hot iron and you want to apply the heat to the wire which is pressed against the Deans pin, not to the Deans pin. You want to remove the iron as soon as the solder reflows onto the pin. When I get units back with these complaints 99% of the time they are fine.

[BTerry]

Robert,

I have been soldering Deans plugs for about 15 years now in cars, boats, and airplanes so I think I have my technique correct. However I have a bunch of both original Deans and the cheap knockoffs and it is possible I grabbed the knockoff plugs by accident. I will replace the plugs and try again.

Again, I don't believe the problem lies in the unit itself, but I was concerned the solid-mounted plugs were more prone to vibration flexing the contacts apart.

As it stands I am EXTREMELY relieved I found this problem on the ground...

Brett

[rrritchey]

Hi Brett,
If you still think the problem is the male Deans on the unit you can send it in and we will replace the unit for you.

[BTerry]

Robert,

I took a closer look at my plugs last night. I noticed they were the darker red with the matte finish, not the lighter-colored glossy smooth look of the actual Deans plugs. Oh well, time to break out the soldering iron.

I have a few ACTUAL Deans plugs in the package, will install those tonight or tomorrow, try again, and let you know. Thanks for the support!

Brett

[BTerry]

Robert,
Tonight I swapped out my plugs for actual Deans plugs. Problem still exists on both plugs, although it is significantly better on one.

I took my pliers and slightly bent the plug bars on the unit in the direction opposite the springs (which should increase the contact area and force), and that helped quite a bit.

I was worried that maybe I melted the plugs, so I plugged my charge plug into the voltmeter to test it. No matter how I twisted, pulled, bent, or hit the battery connector I couldn't get the voltage to drop out the way it does when plugged into the unit. I will work on it again over the next few days, but now think it best to ship it back so you can take a look at it.

FYI my EQ-10 is located back directly over the rudder servo, while my batteries are located in the motor box/fuel tank area (to balance my BME engine). For this my batteries are connected to the EQ-10 unit via 3' power cables. I have the power cables tie wrapped every 6" or so and the final few inches near the EQ-10 loop aft a bit and are held down by the hatch. This slight pressure, coupled with the vibration from the engine, are the cause for my concern.

Is it possible to replace the hard-mounted plug with a 3" jumper plug? I assume the male Deans plug fits into form-fitting holes in the circuit board so maybe this isn't a workable solution. However it would isolate the plugs from vibration causing a lateral load on the plug connection.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,

Brett

[rrritchey]

Hi Brett,
Its not really possible to replace the plugs with wires. I will send you a new unit. Please send me an e-mail at Suport@Smart-Fly.com with your address and phone number and reference to this thread. Sorry for the issue.