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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: La Jolla, CA USA
Posts: 1,489
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I am using dual Fromeco 4800 LiIon batteries in my 40% ZN-Line IMAC Plane. The current setup has been working reliably, but I have noticed that the batteries do not take the same amount to re-charge them after a day of flying. One usually take almost double the other. I have matched my Smartfly regulators so that one is at 5.81 Volts and one is at 5.82 Volts. I just can't seem to get them to match exactly, but I don't think the 0.01 Volts should make that big of a difference in usage. I bought a Fromeco Wolverine Switch because I have heard such great things about them, they look cool and have the ability to balance battery usage. The Wolverine switch I bought has the heavy guage wire and Deans connectors. The current setup is shown in the picture below. It is a pretty standard setup, except that each of the switches have two leads with JR connectors that connect to two matching leads on the input side of the regulator. Each regulator also has two output leads with JR connectors that plug into the RX. This gives me a total of 4 power inputs to the RX to increase amp capacity and redundancy. As I've said, so far, this sytem has worked very well. I want to install the Wolverine switch, which means that I have only the two Deans connectors to work with. I think i should be able to solder the two red, and two black leads from the regulator on to the respective tabs on the Deans connector and have everything work. But I am no electrical master so I wanted to check with you guys to see if my plan makes sense. I have attached a schematic of the current and proposed wiring. Take a look and let me know if it will work properly and any additional comments on the system Thanks for the Help, -STEVE- ZN-Line Power Setup.bmp |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Learn how to work Kid. ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Bloomington, Il Age: 40
Posts: 5,146
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Steve, I think it will work but I am sure Kurt will see this here and comment. I can tell you that you will love the wolverine. My batts take almost identical Mah when charging now. Generally within a few Mah of eachother. I was the guy who blew up one of the first wolverine switches when they were brand new but, that side stayed on even after it was failed and the other side was totally un-affected. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Super Contributer ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Sandy, Oregon, USA
Posts: 128
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Hi 1bwana1, I looked at your Skeeematic, looks good, that will work just fine. My only word of caution would be on the soldering of the standard Awg. wire to the deans post. Make sure that you don't wick the solder too far up the narrow Awg wire. I would double up on shrink wrap at that solder point to give the wire more support off the Deans Post. Once it is all done, make sure you have the connectors strapped down good. Other than that go for it. That will work just fine. ![]() KC FSA |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: La Jolla, CA USA
Posts: 1,489
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KC, Thanks for the confirmation. I will take care with the soldering as you have suggested, and secure the connectors so that there is no movement. As always, Fromeco is the best! -STEVE- |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: La Jolla, CA USA
Posts: 1,489
|
Wayne, KC, I installed the Wolverine switch per my diagram and everything seems to be working properly. The blue LEDs are cool. The nice aluminum finish looks great. I think I will change my black Smart-Fly ignition switch for the single Badger that matches the Wolverine. KC, any chance you make a blank aluminum plate that matches the Wolverine in looks, but is the same size as the black Smartfly switch so I can use it to cover the hole left by second switch that the Wolverine replaced. My ZN has a composite fuse and patching holes so that they look good is really difficult. -STEVE- |
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