Welcome to The FlyingGiants! - please login or click this bar to join our community...

Infinite Menus, Copyright 2006, OpenCube Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Please support our sponsors
   

Welcome to The FlyingGiants Community! We're all about fun, and inside you'll find the greatest, friendliest, and most helpful group of people around! If this is your first time visiting, please check out site, and click here to sign up! We hope to see you soon!!

Go Back   FlyingGiants Forums > General RC Discussions > The Kiwi's!

The Kiwi's! A Forum for our friends in New Zealand!

Support our Sponsors

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-14-2008, 06:59 PM   #25 (permalink)
Outlaw Slayer!
 
CSpaced's Avatar
 
CSpaced's Stuff
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oak Ridge, NC
Age: 31
Posts: 2,343
Blog Entries: 16
CSpaced is offline
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

I used the roller when I repaired my composite edge, it worked really well and it was much easier to apply an even coating of epoxy. I never thought about rolling off the excess onto a paper towel - good tip!
__________________


Evil R/C Products
BikeTriad.com - Mtn Biking in the Triad Area of NC.
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2008, 07:27 PM   #26 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Im doing wing skins now.
First trued the edges with the edge sander. I have always used a straight edge and knife but I have found the sander a bit better as the blade has a tendency to follow the grain rather than the straight edge.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg edge sander.jpg (62.0 KB, 9 views)
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2008, 07:33 PM   #27 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Join enough balsa for 2 skins minus the leading edge (or trailing edge) sheet. Tape lightly on one side and turn over and fully tape the other side. This side should become the outside as there will be less glue on the surrounding wood.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg joining the sheets.jpg (52.9 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg masking tape.jpg (62.9 KB, 3 views)
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2008, 07:40 PM   #28 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Turn back over and remove the small pieces off tape. Then hang over the table edge to expose the edge so the glue can be applied. Use aliphatic and apply with a small squeeze bottle. Cut a little nick in the spout so you can use it as a guide on the edge of the wood. You can then apply a bead of glue in one smooth motion (you can see from the motion blur that I do this operation very quickly).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg gluing the sheets.jpg (73.2 KB, 13 views)
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2008, 07:54 PM   #29 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Once all the glue joints are done and the sheets are back flat on the table glue should squeeze out of the joins. Remove this carefully to avoid spreading the glue around as much as possible. I use a thin piece of plastic to scrape it up. Gently wipe as much glue off the joins with a paper towel. Leave for 15 minutes or so then sand the joints with fineish sand paper say 320 grit. The idea is to get sanding dust into the glue joint and fill any gaps. Leave for 45 minutes or so the turn over and remove the tape. Do the same again with the sand paper. Dont forget to mark the inside of the sheet. Cut the sheet in half on the diagonal and glue on the leading edge. Remember to cut one sheet on the diagonal one way and the other sheet on the diagonal the other way. Think about it. So you get 2 pairs with inside the right way round. Weight of 4 skins is 195gms bare and 202gms with dope
Attached Images
File Type: jpg scrapping excess glue.jpg (106.7 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg wiping the glue.jpg (60.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg wing skin.jpg (38.3 KB, 8 views)

Last edited by Rod : 04-17-2008 at 12:16 AM.
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 12:38 AM   #30 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Weren't happy with the wing cores so I got some SL (superlight) foam from my local supplier. New cores are 89gms each as opposed to 100 gms for the earlier ones
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 02:42 AM   #31 (permalink)
All I need is more talent

 
Imac Kiwi's Avatar
 
Imac Kiwi's Stuff
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
Posts: 662
Imac Kiwi is offline
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Looking good Rod, now all you need is a YS 170 powerhouse to pull that puppy!!
__________________
www.rcmodels.co.nz
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 03:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Hi Alan
No 170, but have the next best thing a YS 160 with short Hatori muffler.
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 07:14 PM   #33 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Haven't been happy with my mold release system. It works OK as long as I put plenty of PVA release on, but I have been experimenting with the Zyvec system from Fibreglass supplies and it works really well. So I have stripped the fuse mold and applied the Zyvec sealer and release.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Release system.jpg (90.7 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by Rod : 04-23-2008 at 06:27 AM.
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2008, 11:31 PM   #34 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Cores are ready for bagging. Changes will be lighter glass reinforcement (75gm glass) well towelled off. And lighter weight carbon uni spar. I wont need to sand a groove for the carbon.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg new cores.jpg (54.6 KB, 15 views)
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2008, 05:04 PM   #35 (permalink)
Rod
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
 
Rod's Stuff
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Age: 51
Posts: 507
Rod is online now
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Out of the bag and the weight is 234gms. 26gms lighter than the original wing panel.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Wing out of bag.jpg (51.2 KB, 13 views)
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2008, 08:51 PM   #36 (permalink)
Gettin' Lower!
 
brusty's Avatar
 
brusty's Stuff
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Napier, New Zealand
Age: 72
Posts: 51
brusty is offline
View Photos and Videos
Default Re: MIRO 2

Hi Rod, Very interesting post, its good to hear how others approach the same ends. I have recently completed a composite moulded scratch 2.800 meter Turbo Raven, and like you, have changed to using 12kg white foam for the cores. It certainly saved quite a bit of weight, but gave me some grief with crushing, especially as I used 1.5mm divinicell as the skin. I found it necessary to fit temporary hard balsa root and tip ribs to stop the ends crushing, and kept the pressure at about 8 ins. The only problem then was that the bond became a little suspect, I used epoxy wetted out 1.5 ounce cloth as the adhesive to form the inner layer of the laminate. When applying the outer layers of cloth 2x 2.3 ounce, I was able to lift the pressure up to 10 to 12 lbs.

In the light of this experience, for all the saving, I think i would stay with the 16kg foam next time, and just hotwire a bit more out of the finished wing. I am also considering applying the skins with Gorrilla glue, I did a test sample, and there was little difference in weight, and the penetration and adhesion of the polyeurathane glue was excellent. Then the ouside i might use a layer of 2.3 ounce and a layer of 0.75 under the mylars. What are you thoughts?

Regards, Barrie.
  <--Lame Post Reply With Quote
Reply


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Miro F3A Rod The Kiwi's! 322 03-24-2008 12:37 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:27 AM.


  Sitemap :: Contact Us :: Community :: News :: Videos and Photos :: About Us
FlyingGiants, and The Leading Edge, are trademarks of RCGroups.com LLC. All content (c). All rights reserved.
Please view our disclaimer

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.1.0