MIRO 2

[Rod]

The wing tips are quite beefy, carved from 20mm block. So I decided I would lighten them this time. I tacked them onto the wing temporarily with 5 minuite and carved them to shape. I then detached them and hollowed them out. They started at 8gm each and finished at 4gm each. The tool is an exacto blade, I also used a smaller one and they worked a treat. The control line guys reckon that to do a proper job you need to go through at least once (I didn't).
PS the hammer wasn't required for this job.

[NZ Scythe]

haha - looks like you've had a lot of use out of them scales!

it would be good to see some close ups of how you do your servo install in the wings, hard points for control horns etc. also what method are you using for wing incidence pins? do you have any adjustment screws? keep up the great work with the pictorial 'how to' guide, very informative.

[Rod]

Yours will look like that when you have mixed as much epoxy as I have. I do all my mixing by weight.

[Rod]

I used epoxy and microballoons to glue the leading edges, trailing edges and the tips on. This took longer to dry than other methods but sanded really nicely.

[brusty]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Rod
	I used epoxy and microballoons to glue the leading edges, trailing edges and the tips on. This took longer to dry than other methods but sanded really nicely.

Rod, do you have a preference for epoxy in this situation as opposed to Aliphatic, do you think there is a significant strength or weight factor ? How are the weights of these components coming out ? Cheers B.

[Rod]

Hi Barry I just like the crisp sanding and gap filling of the micro balloons/epoxy. The stabs are 44 and 42 gms the rudder 41 gms and the wings are 249 and 252 gms (with servo boxes).

[Rod]

I find servo boxes a bit of a chore usually so a bit of a plan made things easier. Measure your servo and make a sketch then allow some clearance for vibration say 1.5mm. Then you can work out the exact dimensions of each part. For the servo rails I have used some nice AC ply 2.2mm thick. The drawing is in the PDF.

[Rod]

I draw the parts onto the wood and cut out. Gluing them together is a bit of a fiddle but they worked out OK.

[Rod]

I used my card stencil to mark servo position. Cut the hole with a knife and chiseled out the foam. I went right to the other side and had to relieve the bottom of the box so it would sit in as far as possible. Marked the servo screw holes with spacers in place to get nice even clearance from the sides.

[Rod]

I glued the boxes in with PU glue for its foaming gap filling properties. Weighted them down so they wouldnt get pushed out. Then did the final sand. The servos are a bit further out of the wing than I would like but are well held in there.

[NZ Scythe]

Thanks for that Rod - always full of good ideas aren't you!

[Rod]

Oh BTW the servo boxes weighed 4gms each.