3DHobbyShop.Com 55" Extra 300 SHP Build, Fly, Review thread

[BoneDoc]

Control Horn and Servo Installation

As you can see on the second pic. The hole line up EXACTLY over the hinge line. I personally just use thin + med CA on this one though the recommendation calls for epoxy. FWIW, Ben does the same also, and we haven't had failures with that yet. A properly CA'd joint is a a very strong one.

Next, I make an opening in the covering and pull the string out. It's just lightly glued so you don't have to worry about yanking off the servo tray . If you notice, I make my opening slightly smaller than the hole, and then make diagonal cuts to the corner. This way, when I insert the servo, the covering will get pushed down, preventing me from having an uncovered surface. Inconsequential to the whole build, but a nice touch .

After that, I screw the rods halfway through, and eyeball to the best of my ability the point at which I'm going to need to bend the wire. Please keep in mind that the the servo arm needs to be PARALLEL TO THE HINGE LINE (made that mistake before .

On the picture of the finished work, you can see that I only put 2 screws on. I think it's fine for electrics, though you can put all four just for peace of mind (not a bad idea given how hard this plane will fly).

[BoneDoc]

H Stabilizer

Once you remove part of the covering, you'll notice that the sleeve for the H-Stab is actually reinforced with a sheet of balsa... neato .

First I remove only a part of the covering. Then with the benefit of being able to see it from the other side, I just slide the blade across, making perfect cuts without scoring the balsa. I don't bother removing the covering on the stab itself. It's completely unnecessary IMHO.

Then I slide the stab in place, and I measure each side, both the TE as well as the LE. When they're equidistant (Left versus Right) on BOTH TE and LE, then I know that I'm square. At that time, I wick a tiny ammount at the TE and LE. Just as a final precaution, I then stand the fuse vertically and do my "eyeball" test. It should make a "+" looking cross if you draw the imaginary line through the center of the fuse. When even on the eyeball test it looks perfect, then I liberally flow thin CA all over the joint from the top and bottom.

[BoneDoc]

Rudder / Elevator

The only thing worth mentioning here is that you keep your gaps correctly, and before you flow the CA, make sure you're happy about the throw you're getting. I can tell you, that with the proper gap, the elevator will hit the ground on full down. Now that's what I call AUTHORITY .

Tail Wheel
If you want to get the wire flush, you'd just have to bend it a little. That's about all that needs to be done.

[BoneDoc]

LANDING GEAR and WHEEL PANTS
Unlike many ARFs on the market today the wheel pants are notched so you don't have to do anything more than squeeze it between the axle and the landing gear. It's little innovation like this that puts this kit a step above the current crop of competitions. Having build and flown many ARFs, 3DH knows how to make our lives a little easier .

The pics should be self explanatory.

[Marty]

BoneDoc,

It's really looking good man. I've never really flown one of the SHP's, but I have much experience with the katana's and if this thing flies anywhere near as well (I've heard it actually flies better) then it's a very well proven winner. Ben really does a nice job with his airplanes. BTW, will you be coming to SEFF with Ben next year?


Matt

[BoneDoc]

Matt,

I've seen some of your work, and I'm sure that in your thumbs, this plane will totally rock. Actually, in any thumbs, it'll make them a better flier. I've flown both the Katana and the SHP. The SHP is indeed a step (or two) beyond what the Katana is.

[BoneDoc]

EMPTY WEIGHT FULLY ASSEMBLED

Ok, so done with the "major" building... is there any building at all here .

Here's a pic of her, including the empty weight so you can figure out what your total weight will be.

[BoneDoc]

MOTOR MOUNTING

Next up, mounting the motor. This is about as simple as marking where to drill, drill and bolt it in .

Note that a 1/4" spacer is included that would fit the recommended Torque 4140-570 just perfect. This is quite a nifty idea as there's room for someone to use a larger motor (if they wish).

[Marty]

Thank you for the complement. Looks really good man.



Matt

[BoneDoc]

Thanks,

To complement the look here's the decal that comes with the kit.

My favorite is the motor decal that says
"Powered by Massive Ammount of TORQUE"

[BoneDoc]

Ok, 2nd Video Added. This is a Vid of Mr. 3DH himself, Ben, AKA, Mr. Peanut of the peanut gallery flying the SHP and yours trully drooling over its performance .

55" SHP VIDEO - Mr. Peanut

[BoneDoc]

INSTALLING THE COWLING

oK, almost done here . I just use the standard tape method and it works GREAT. Just to keep in mind, you'll need to CA your holes because this plane will do some really violent maneuvers. If your cowling isn't secured properly, it will come off (don't ask me how I know this ).