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| General IMAC Discussions Everything related to IMAC, Discuss it here! |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() | Have a comp arf 3m classic Extra which is shaking its tail a little mainly at high speed and if I'm a bit rough with the rudder around neutral. Any suggestions? I'm a bit loathe to tighten up the rudder cables too much, dont want to wear out the servo bearings. Cheers. ![]() |
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| | #4 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||
| I Fly In Circles...... ![]() |
I've seen this fix too. Was also on a 3M extra. | ||||||||||||||||||
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| It's all about MGS ![]() | In some hobby shops here there is a company that sells plastic 3/16" and 1/4" plastic 90 degree strips. I've taken the 1/4" 90 strips and glued it on end to the TE of the rudder top stp the wiggles (sanded a flat at the V and glued it to the TE of the rudder so it's a 45 degree drag on each side of the rudder). I've see others that have taken the 3/16" 90's and glue on to each side of the TE of the rudder (like drawing). I usually glue it to within 2" of the top and bottom of the rudder. On my last one, with 3-9152's I didn't need anything, but my cables were really tight (plane is still flying with same servos, cable tightness and no wiggles). Last edited by JAS : 06-15-2007 at 11:29 AM. |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() | I HAVE THE 3METER XTRA 330 THE FIRST TIME I FLEW IT I NEARLY WET MYSELF !!!! THE TAIL WAGGED MORE THAN A HAPPY PUPPY, MY CURE WAS VISITING A GOOD AUTO PARTS STORE AND BUYING A PIECE OF DOOR EDGE MOULDING WHICH COMES IN A FEW DIF COLORS I CHOSE SILVER JUST CUT IT TO LENGTH OF THE RUDDER SLIP IT ON NO NEED TO GLUE IT MINE STAYS ON BY ITSELF AND WHAMMO PROBLEM SOLVED. ITS THE EASIEST AND CHEAPEST FIX AND IT ACTUALLY LOOKS LIKE IT BELONGS ON THE PLANE. MAKE SURE THE MOULDING IS AT LEAST 1/4 INCH IN WIDTH. AND THE WHOLE LENGTH OF THE RUDDER JAY Last edited by SUPERFLYJAY : 06-15-2007 at 12:35 PM. |
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| | #8 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() |
__________________ Cactus Aviation http://www.cactusaviation.com/ Fromeco http://www.fromeco.org/ Free Advice: Do Not Fly In Cow Pastures! Don't Clean your Engine With oven Cleaner! Check batteries after smoke is released from throttle servo! Don't put reeds in Backwards! | ||||||||||||||||||
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| | #10 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||
| 100% EDGE Builder ![]() |
![]() Dan | ||||||||||||||||||
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() ![]() | Robin, The trailing edge devices work well. Using Jason's diagram, if you glue a 90 on each side, use the 1/8 size. I experimented with everything up to 1/4 size. The bigger, the more locked in the tail will be, but realized servo power will be reduced. The 1/8 was enough to get rid of the wiggles. After flying it for two years, I reduced the counter-balance. I was afraid to do it, but once I did it was no big deal. I moved the parting line up 3 inches, but if I had a do over I'd reduce it by 2.5 inches. I basically glued the rudder counterbalance with it centered, then used a razor saw and razor blade to cut the hinge line up to the new location. Then use a razor saw to cut the new counter balance parting line. Cap the top and bottom with balsa, covered it with vinyl. Form a chunk of foam or balsa to follow the radius of the rudder leading edge to the new part line, and cover it with vinyl. The whole process took about 45 minutes and turned out great. Rudder is now rock solid with no trailing edge devices. Daniel |
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