Carden 260. My set up for Precision Aerobatics.

[All Thumbs]

Thanks for the honest answer and thanks for taking the time to explain your setup and how to's. It helps us with the knowledge to make some comparrisons.

[Wayne]

Glad you liked it John..

Theres really nothing special about how I set the plane up. Its pretty much how most of us do it with maybe the exception of the "no 3D throws."
There are several planes out there like this as far as rate set up but, the majority I think still run long arms and low DR settings for IMAC.

[All Thumbs]

I guess I had to bring this thread back to light and give a little credit where credit is due.

First, I need to thank Wayne for taking the time that he took to outline how he sets up his airplane. Let me explain.

I went through an entire contest season with my Dalton 260, set up to full 3D throws and mellow sequence throws. I guess I thought I'd get the most out of it and have an airplane that would "do it all". Of course, I'm not a 3D pilot unless you wanna call doing torque rolls, rolling harriers etc. so high that you could just baaaarley see a 42%er. But you know, it was going to be cool to have the option of tossing it around the sky if I wanted to. Wrong!!

After the 2006 season was over, I decided to replace all my servos. So, since everything was going to be torn apart, reinstalled and reset anyway, I decided to really put Wayne's setup to the test. I knew my Dalton was going to be my main airplane for the 2007 season and decided to go with a completely different, sequence type setup and other than the rudder, toned everything way, way down.

By using his method of utilizing the full ATV to obtain the maximum surface travel needed, which in all honesty is very little comparred to the full 3D rates, I found the resolution was greatly enhanced. The plane responded so much more smoothly. I also found that some of the jerkness of the plane was eliminated and when mistakes were made, they weren't quite as apparent and it takes so little input to get back on track.


So, there you have it. A testimonial that the proper setup for precision aerobatics is a must if you don't want to have to fight flying your airplane. I would recommend anyone flying IMAC sequences to take a look as Wayne's setup comparred to what you have. If you're not Chip Hide, Kyle, Quique or one of the rest top notched pilots that can probably fly bricks with engines, then I recommend you read this entire thread to get the gist of why proper setup is so important.

Thanks Wayne for providing such valuable information.

[Wayne]

John,

Congrats on your win out there last weekend.
Your scores looked really good.
John Murdoch

Glad the info helped you to get a better feel of the plane.
None of that is stuff I came up with its all stuff I have learned from listening to some top IMAC guys and how they do it.

[Matchless]

Great Thread/Article/Writeup..... I don't know how I missed it when it was first posted.
Now I need to sit down and think of how I plan to apply this to my Indoor IMAC airplane, as well as my 35%'er.........

[prizzy]

I am seeing this thread late. What do you do for snaps? I want to set up a switch, and I am new. Do you have high ailerons, high rudder, and low elevator throws?

[Wayne]

I dont use a switch for snaps.
My rates are set up so I can fly the entire sequence (with the exception of Hammerheads and Rollers) on one rate.
I use enough expo on all 3 axis's to keep everything smooth.
For Hammerheads and Rollers I flip one switch to get a slightly higher rudder rate.
Everything else stays the same.

Lots of guys will flip switches when doing a snap then off when the snap is done. Nothing wrong with that if thats what you want to do.

[prizzy]

What would be the settings for a snap. High aileron and rudder, and low elevator? thanks for your help

[Wayne]

My current plane has..

11 degrees of elevator up
13 degrees down
23 degrees up and down on ailerons
35 degrees of rudder on low rate
40 on high

[3-d flyer]

Wayne, I'm glad to see prizzy resurected this thread or i would not have seen it.... I am currently setting up my son and i our first "IMAC" plane (41% WH Extra300) ans this is exactly the guided info i was looking for, just wanted to thank you for taking the time to share this info, as it is a great place to compare set-ups..... I was wondering if it would be in order to suggest any info on "Failsafe settings" I don't know how many times i have bumped into new guys not setting these and felt it might be helpful to others getting underway in large scale planes having correct settings across the board.... Thanks again for sharing!! Dave

[Wayne]

Dave,

Two choices on what to do.
"failsafe" or "hold"

1- Failsafe:
Controls go to a position you set up in the radio. (Generally neutral controls and low idle. But can be anything you set)

2- Hold:
Controls remain in the position they were in at the time of the last good signal.
If nothing has been set by the user, this is the default on JR.

I have heard the reasons for both and cant argue one way or another.
I set them to "failsafe" mainly because I want to be alerted as soon as it happens.
Either the plane will stop doing what I am asking it to do or if I am straight and level anyway, I will hear the motor go to idle.

Ask ten people what they do on this and you will get twelve answers..
Look at both and pick one..

[3-d flyer]

I agree... i personally failsafe, but was curious what others did..... never quite understood why to leave the surfaces at the last position....