CA Models Pass-Port (Pattern)

[toddblose]

Chip and I will be doing a build on the new Pass-Port ARF from CA Models. Here are pics of Chip's Pass-Port just out of the box.
Just to let everyone know all CA Models are imported into the US by Netboxhobbies. here is the link http://www.netboxhobby.com/main.sc I recieved this from Chip, I will be adding to the thread as I get the info from Chip.


Hi Guys

Since I haven't done a build thread before, and there is not a real rush to get these models in the air, I decided to give it a shot.
This is the new Passport EP. Designed by Marcelo Columbo and myself to be used to compete in all classes of precision aerobatics.
These models are manufactured and sold exclusively through CA Models and their authorized dealers. Since this is the Deluxe ARF version, it comes standard with the following items.

1. CA Models Carbon Gear
2. Carbon Wing Tube/Stab Tube/Anti-Rotation Pin
3. Clear Canopy
4. CA Models Lite Wheels
5. CHP Ball Bearing Horns
6. CA Models Carbon Spinners
7. Incidence Adjuters Wing/ Stab
8. Light Weight Wooden Shipping Boxes
9. Carbon Wheel Pants
10. 2 PC Wing/Stab
11. Carbon/Kevlar/Fiberglass Fuselage
12. 1 PC Foam/Balsa Rudder
13. Nomex Formers/Servo Trays

Optional Extras
1. Split Rudder
2. Removable wing tips/wing tip fins

Any Questions that have to do with Pricing or availibility please send them to Luis at http://www.netboxhobby.com/main.sc first. If he cannot help, then try the factory direct. I am only involved with the design and construction of these models so I do not have a clue when it comes to anything more than that.

This morning I unpacked both of them and I must say I was very pleased with the quality of these models. The CA guys have really stepped up to the plate from what I have seen. I was a little concerned after getting a couple of planes last year that I really had to struggle with to make weight, and in the end didn't. After the Nationals, Marcelo and I had some long conversations about what its going to take to be able to compete with some of the planes coming from Japan and China. Since then they have made a few changes which will enable them to do just that. Most are in the quality of the raw materials. Everything from the epoxy used to lay up the fuselages, to the type of foam for the wings and stabs. In the end, the models from 6 months ago may look identical to these when setting next to one another, but these will be a few ounces lighter as well as stronger.

After I unpacked both planes, I started the hinging process. Each aileron has 4 CA hinges, while the elevators and each rudder half only use 3. The rudder hinges go into the leading edge of each half at a 45 degree angle and then they meet and each side uses the same slot in the rudder post. Be sure to use something about an inch long to wedge between the two halves when you are ready to CA the hinges in place. If not you will more then likely end up with a built up one piece rudder.

Please remember these will be electric powered planes, and if a glo version is what you decide to go with you will need to add at least
one more hinge per surface.

After the hinges were all set in place and glued I decided to put them both together just to make sure everything fit like I had hoped, which it did.

A good friend of mine was nice enough to open up his shop for this little project, so I can do both at the same time and not have to
worry about running out of space. However, by doing this I have limited my work time a little due to our schedules. He has to be
away traveling for his business tonight and tomorrow, and I leave Thurs. for the NASCAR race in Vegas. So from now until Monday there will not be much added. I do however plan to fly them before the following weekend so next week will be a blur. BTW Todd Blose will have his 2 Passports within the next week, so he will be able to answer any questions about these Planes as well.

I also forgot to mention it earlier, if anyone knows a way of doing something better or easier, please don't hesitate to chime in. I am
always open to trying a new technique or trick that will make this process as painless as possible.

Thanks

Chip

[toddblose]

Here is the split rudder,stab and wing hinged

[toddblose]

Here is the Pass-Port after all hinging is done. next will be mounting control horns,motor and radio.

[toddblose]

Here is the setup I will be running in my Pass-Ports.
Not sure what Chip is doing for servos, I do know he will be running the same
motor combo
Hacker C50XL14 with 90amp controller
FlightPower EVO535010S
Futaba 14MZ
Futaba 6014 2.4 rx.
Ailerons 2-Futaba BLS451
Elevators 2-Futaba 9650
Rudder 2-Futaba 9650
Smart-Fly 6.0v reg.
FlightPower 400mh rx pack

[toddblose]

Ok so all pic's so far have been of Chip's Pass-Port. Mine just got here today so and the scheme is the same except I have pearl red instead if pink. here is how the plane comes form CA Models.

[toddblose]

couple more just out of the create. I will start putting it all together tomorrow

[toddblose]

Today I made and mounted the Hacker firewall. The first thing I do is trace out some blue foam cut it out and use it as the template. You will need to cut a little at a time so you don't get it to small. after you get the template where you need it, trace it out on to what you will be using for the firewall. (I used the 1/8in carbon sandwich panel from CST.) when I get the carbon where I want I will tack it in place with some CA to hold it in place. I then take the motor and get it set then mount it. after all adjustments are made I will glue the firewall in using BVM aeropoxy

[toddblose]

Next I mounted the landing gear and wheel paints. I will start with gluing in the support plates in the wheel paints, this will help keep the wheel paint in place and I also use a small screw to mount the wheelpaint. I then take and drill the holes in the paints where the axel go through. Before putting the wheel on I will set the plane at 0 deg's and put the paints on and drill them for the mounting screw. After that is done I then put the wheel on and put the screw in that holds the paint on. The reason for not putting the wheel on is the paint will set on the wheel opening that is level.

[WESTENBURG]

Hey Todd looks like you have done this a time or two. Planes look great!

Garrett

[toddblose]

Here is how Chip is mounting the servos in the back.

Here is some pics of the finished rudder servo installation. We used 9650 servos so we could mount it on its side to get rid of the up and down movement as the servo is moving. I just traced the servo and cut it out with a sharp X-acto. Then doubled it on the inside with some 1/8th lite ply. I use MK BB at the servo and a ball link at the surface. Its connected with 072 carbon rod that is glued at each end with med Zap. Do not use kicker on these connections it isn't nearly as strong as when allowed to dry on its own. More pics on the way.

Chip

[toddblose]

Thanks Garrett

[toddblose]

These are just a couple showing the Hyde Mount and tail ring istallation