Calling ALL shank experts!!!!

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

Jeff, I have 2 pitch gauges. A Robart, and a Heli-Max. The Heli-Max is a decent gauge, but the Robart is better. I would prefer to have 2 Robarts on it. I wish I had a fly bar clamp on it, so that I'm not having to level the flybar each time I increase pitch. UGH!!! I am using a bubble level to level the fly bar.

All servos feel REALLY smooth. Everything is where it should be. This was a very SWEET flying machine prior to my lame ass attempt to practice my autos!!! HAHAH!!!!

The blade grip was something that I was thinking about as well. I have another Sceadu 50 that I can take measurements off of, as well as change blades. I can check the pitch that way and compare the 2 different sets of blades.

Only thing I cannot do is change the blade grips between the 2. One has metal grips, and the other has plastic grips. Different spindles as well. Of course, I could change spindles as well, but that would be CHEATING!!! HAHA!!!!

Bunky~

[CSpaced]

Speaking of flybar clamps, when I needed one I slipped into MacGuyver mode. I use two dowels (about 12"), two rubber bands, and a spirit level. Tie the two dowels together with a rubber band at each end, then pull open the dowels at one end and slide it over your boom then open the other end and slide your flybar in. Use the level to make sure everything is straight and voilla! Your flybar is "locked".

[Flyinfool]

From your description of using 2 pitch gauges I am "assuming" that you are setting both blades at the same time. While this works great in theory it does not work as well in practice.
I mark one blade as the master and do all of the setup in all modes, on that one blade. After all of the pitches are set up in all of the flight modes on that one blade I then take off the pitch gauge, turn the head 180 degrees and set the other blade to match. I have seen pitch gauges that were off by as much as 2 degrees. In fact every one of my pitch gauges has had new markings applied to give correct readings.
The actual numbers are not as important since you will fine tune it in flight to optimize the power band of your specific setup anyhow.

[Flyinfool]

On my Stingers, to lock the flybar, I slide in a drill bit of the right size in between the flybar carrier and the head block.
Just don't forget to take it out when you are done, and don't ask how I know this one.

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

Ok, curiousity is killin the cat here. Forgot to take it off, and spooled up, an didn't have any cyclic control??!!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!!!!!???!

I'm using the 2nd gauge as refference, and understand that you gotta tune them to how you fly them!!

	Quote: Originally Posted by Flyinfool
	On my Stingers, to lock the flybar, I slide in a drill bit of the right size in between the flybar carrier and the head block. Just don't forget to take it out when you are done, and don't ask how I know this one.

[Flyinfool]

You still have about 50% of cyclic control.
Nothing bad happened, it just flew like a trainer.
That is why I hate doing work at the field, too many interruptions disrupting your normal work flow.

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

HAHA!!!! Too funny, Jeff!!!! I know all about that!!!

I ended up doing as you suggested, checking each blade individually. The pitch was still off, but with a couple quick turns of the mixer linkage, we had the pitch REALLY close!!! Also, we had noticed that the mast lock allowed the mast to move up and down about 1/8". So, we loosened it up, and pulled up on the mast, and re-tighten the lock. So far, so good. Haven't took it out and fired it up. I'll probably be looking to do so Saturday or Sunday.

Thanks!

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

Alrighty now, kiddies!!! Now, pops found out pretty much what was going on in that shanker. Different weight blades will do it. Also ended up re-measureing the paddles in length from the fly bar control. It was out some with the paddles off. But paddles on, they were right on!!! So, I put a 5 minute flight on it today, and it was SOLID!!!!

So, with Toledo around the corner, guess what is on my list............... New main blades, and gonna get some new V-Paddles, as well as some other misc. things!!!

Thanks guys!!!!

Chris~

[CSpaced]

Nice! Glad you got it sorted

[Shawn Berkheimer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bunky F. Knuckle
	Alrighty now, kiddies!!! Now, pops found out pretty much what was going on in that shanker. Different weight blades will do it. Chris~

You mean to tell me that you don't check that before they go on the heli? I owe you a hand slap! LOL

Shawn

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

I had a mix match set. It was one of the first things that crossed my mind once it started the non crashing funky chicken dance!!! The mix match set of blades are MS. And they weigh 120g and 138g!!!! Put on a different set of 600's, and BLAM!!!! Everything is gravey!!!!

I knew that blades weigh differently,but I didn't figure that they would be out that much!!!!!!

Shawn, Ima kick you in your nutz!!! HAHAH!!! *Cartman* Hell no man!! TT's have them labeled in the package!!!!

[Shawn Berkheimer]

Oh Man, I have seen so many times that a manufacturer claims that the blades are ready to spin but please never go without checking them. I know this should go without saying but there are some guys ( not you of course ) that are running blades that are out of balance. The three things that need to be checked and corrected.

Weight, this is where most manufacturers will just weigh the blades and if they are .5 gram apart then they call them balanced.

Span center of gravity, Things get a little difficult here. Say you have a set of 600 mm blades and they weigh exactly the same but one has it's mass out farther than the other. The result will be vibration.

Cord center of gravity. All blades today are weighted to increse mass for better stability and to bring the blades CG closer to it's center of lift. If one blade's CG is slightly behind the others it will lead slightly in the blade grip and create vibration.


Shawn