Thinking about getting into Heli's or have questions, Let me know!

[JayB]

I dont know but egg salad SUUUUCCKKKKSSS!!

[Nitrohuffer]

I believe that the paddles and blades are the most important parts to heli in terms of affecting the way it flies. Don't cheap out on paddles, get a few different sets. They all fly differently and when you find a pair that fits your style it's like wearing your favorite shoes. Ok, enough with the clothing references. This isn't "what not to wear". Thanks to my wife I now know the name of that awful show. But I degrease
These little thing are half of the heli's control so it is a good idea to get a grip on what makes a good set. I first thought that lighter is better when trying to make the heli quicker. I had a set of home made carbon paddles that had to weigh about 10 grams. I had to dial in expo and thing was all over the place in forward flight. It rolled like a profile though. So the first factor is weight. Stock black raptor 50 paddles weigh in at around 25+ grams. In sequence of slowest to quickest for the Thunder Tiger Raptor 30/50 paddles are black, white, and green. The blacks are great for learning as they make the heli super stable. The whites are the middle of the road weighing in at 20g. The greens are the lightest at 17g. I love the green for my style of flying(stick banger).
The next important thing to take into consideration is the length, more surface yada yada you guys know how this works. The last thing to consider is shape. While the green paddles are the quickest of the group because they are light, they are also have a very thin leading edge. This knifelike shape gives it the bite, but also makes it a little "pitchier" when in fast forward flight. For some reason this doesn't seem to affect underslung head heli's as much as it does the raptor. There are some factor that affect the carbon paddles made by V blades, Mah, and the others. It has to do with how far off the flybar they place the weight in the paddle.

[Biff]

Perhaps I should read the whole thread before I ask what you just answered!!

[Shortman]

Don't forget good dampeners. Those Infinivation dampeners make the heli feel completely different compared to the stock ones that come in most kits.

[Nitrohuffer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Neogenesis
	I wouldn't mind a nitro Shank....but the whole idea of this adventure is to make it flyable in my backyard. With 3 kids....I don't know how often I will make it to the field in the future. My neighbors wouldn't like it too much to hear a nitro humming around. Any suggestions for a little larger electric....if they are available? I'm guessing the nitro's are more stable due to their larger size. Neo

You right on the money, just like planes bigger the better! Check out the new swift from century http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...?currentid=304 It's the the same size as a 30. Or www.quickheli.com

[Kevin Y]

what about potato salad cause he just eat some of that!!

You need to talk Jim into leting me fly his .90 sized heli. I don't understand why I would need any experience

[Nitrohuffer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by JayB
	I got 2 a questions, 1: is there and new RTF nitro helis out there that are not junk. Second: On a turbine heli, how does the turbine run the blades. I'm guessing theres some kind of fan behind the turbine or something. and ideas? P.S. This thread is sweet.

We have to go flying sometime. That's pretty much it. It's all done inside the engine and it has a output shaft that connects to the heli's drivetrian. There are no rtf nitro heli's unless you buy used. You can pick up a used raptorv2 rtf minus rx for $500-1600.

[Nitrohuffer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Kevin Y
	what about potato salad cause he just eat some of that!! You need to talk Jim into leting me fly his .90 sized heli. I don't understand why I would need any experience

Jeeum's SZ powered all carbon 90se.... Great starter heli. Go for it! There is a picture of a guy hovering a 90 in his apartment living room with 2 other guys sitting on the couch. I think they are still alive, proving Darwin wrong. A little trex will cause some damage. Bigger birds can create a world of hurt.

[JayB]

DANG!!! Broham got his face turned into a hamburger!!

[Neogenesis]

ok....let's keep at the hardware part of this. I'll admit...I know very little about what works best in a heli.

Lets talk Gyro's. What am I looking for in one. What's good and what's bad. How about some suggestions?


Servo's, I'm guessing you don't need a ton of torque, but speed would be the key factor here. Would karbonite gears hold up....or would I want to stick to metal gear. How about some idea's about the specs needed, torque and speed.


Thanks for taking the time to answer all these questions.



Neo

[JeeUm]

Neo, running 8311's in my 90. Basically just nylon geared 8411's. Metal gears are not needed. In my .50 I'm only running futaba 9001's. Coreless, non digi's about 70 oz of torque I believe. I'm perfectly happy with them. Gyro's, I would say the futaba GY 401 with the 9254 tail servo is your best bet. Works great for everything except the hardest of tail first 3d stuff, and I mean the hardest.

[Nitrohuffer]

Yeah, I would say 60% of the people out there are running the 401/9254-9253 combo. The gyro's have gotten so good that it is not necessary top have a perfect linkage setup for the tail. I leave mine in heading hold mode all the time. Let the gyro do the work as long as there is no binding.