Problems!! 14MZ 2.4 R6014FS

[klhoard]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Woketman
	. . .<snip>. . As stated before, anyone of us with access to a heat gun (or some other way to heat up the RXs, like a styrofoam box and a big light bulb), a thermocouple, and ten 6014 RXs could do this in three hours. Why can't they???

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Perhaps a better way would be to take the cover off your receiver, get out your solder gun and start heating up individual components until you make it go "click" and the light turns red.
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I'll be glad to help you out, just PM and I'll give you my address to ship your 6014 Rx's and I'll post the video.
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[jimbomilligan]

man this thread is rough

[notorious_benny]

	Quote: Originally Posted by prizzy
	What is the intake actually? Did you make it, or is it used for some other purpose?

RC-Dart said he used a cable exit cover (used on pull pull etc) just turn it around........

[ferocious frankie]

	Quote: Originally Posted by jimbomilligan
	man this thread is rough

How about we use a SAT word for this thread. There is way too much Choler in this thread.

[prizzy]

Thanks Benny, I must of missed that.

[xed]

	Quote: Originally Posted by prizzy
	What is the intake actually? Did you make it, or is it used for some other purpose?

I believe those are used for dressing on a pull-pull rudder setup.

[rcdart]

Prizzy, the exit guide is actually a 3W product.

[rcflyer]

rcdart, any product link for the 3W exit guide? Thx

[notorious_benny]

http://www.modeldesign.com.au/detail...planeacc&id=10

Heres what they look like.....

I also found them at www.aircraftinternational.com look under accessories and then finishing touches.

[03fomoco]

Ok,
I am in the same boat and was able to fail a 6014 on the bench at 165 degrees, so I shelved them all for now and wanted to see how hot an aircraft really got.

Testing was crude but effective for our use. I used a Fluke meter and also an indoor outdoor thermometer. First we checked the "cheap" thermometer against the Fluke and it was within +/- 2 degrees as we let them stabilize from an air conditioned car to direct sunlight. The aircraft was a Comp ARF 3m Extra with no cans and a sealed unvented fuselage.

The first picture shows the ambient temperature taken half way between the ground and the aircraft. The second shows the temperature taken from the left rear canopy mount bolt hole and the probe under the pilot head "fiberglass" light in color. The third picture is alarming and was a surprise. It was 88 degrees out and under the lexan canopy in direct sunlight the temperature was 156 degrees with an ambient of 88. Wow.

Now for a very interesting flight test right? Ok, FASST on the shelf and two trusty 149dp mounted (this aircraft was not converted to FASST). We took the temperature saturated thermometer and reset the min/max readings and secured it in the aircraft to the wing tube. At the time of canopy install the temp had dropped to 130 degrees. We waited until it read over 150 degrees again and went for engine start. The flight was uneventful.

After flight immediately after shutdown the temp reading was 127 degrees, it was now 91 degrees ambient. We pulled the canopy to check the minimum reading in flight and (ready for this) the temperature was 102.7 in a sealed aircraft, so I guess it is not that well sealed.

Conclusions, an aircraft in the pits in the sun is possibly 52 degrees cooler in the air at 90 degrees ambient. The clear canopy on the Comp ARF is murder for everything inside. An aircraft with minimal ventilation still receives a fair amount of cooling.

Bad news is it was only 92 degrees today and it will be 110 in a month or so. Then what, sadly someone will most likely get hurt before the sky will fall. I think it is irresponsible for a company not to at a minimum state something like "some consumers have experienced heat related failures and product model # jhsdfkl should not be used until further notice for safety." Furthermore they should halt the distribution of the product. Futaba is a large company and needs and wants to protect image but if someone is seriously injured image will mean nothing. I am sure they are working this and none of us are engineers on this product, but the simple fact is this product design does not meet the application requirements that past products did. In a situation like this, if it was known, education and informing the customer would be one of the first priorities.

Dave

[rcflyer]

Are these made of plastics or metal? How are they fastened to the fuse? Thx

[diamondave5]

in case anybody is wondering, its not just the 14, my 617 reciever failed the same way you guys had your 14 fail, it was under the canopy(tinted) of my ef yak, my pcm was in that exact same spot all last year, through the hot summer in tucson, this 2.4 failed 2 weeks ago, not even hot hear yet, put the pcm back in the exact same spot and been flying safely these last 2 weekends, in even hotter temps, and just for the heck of it today i temped my covering with a buddies pyrometer, at 11:00 am the ambient temp was still in the upper 80's, bright sun, the black covering was 169f, so yes stuff gets hot around here, but there is no shade for me, the pavilian has all the work tables under it and no room for a big plane assembled, i checked the canopy and it read 124f, not sure if it was reading the canopy or inside, my buddy said most likley was the canopy surface it self, he was leaving so i didnt get to check it later or check under the canopy, but the point is this stuff is failing at what i consider to not be extreme heat, i want to fly during the summer and i have with my pcm, sweat dripping in my eyes is more of a problem then the pcm ever gave me, i sent my fasst stuff back to tower for a refund, it was less than a month old so i got my money back, i do want to see what happens now and maybe in a year or more i might consider 2.4 again, but it concerns me at this time, you guys in florida heat not having problems?....maybe you need to be west of the mississippi