9100 switch issues

[bodywerks]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Show871
	No, I mean they work with the f/s for the pe, which is the same sort of failsafe on s/u. I do want to run that switch alone in direct replacement of the soft switch.

It works Show, I guarantee it. One thing I still did on my SF unit is I removed the heatshrink from the switch to inspect the red wire as to how it is terminated and I am glad I did!! It was not terminated much better than the original spektrum soft switch and did look like it could have come in contact with the negative lead, so I cut an extra 1/4" off and re-heatshrunk it. Other than that, it works flawlessly. 35+ flights on mine with zero issues.

[Show871]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bodywerks
	It works Show, I guarantee it. One thing I still did on my SF unit is I removed the heatshrink from the switch to inspect the red wire as to how it is terminated and I am glad I did!! It was not terminated much better than the original spektrum soft switch and did look like it could have come in contact with the negative lead, so I cut an extra 1/4" off and re-heatshrunk it. Other than that, it works flawlessly. 35+ flights on mine with zero issues.

Thanks BW....Im in. Could you please explain the surgery again on the SF switch. 871

[bodywerks]

Cut the heatshrink off the switch to examine the red wire end. Mine was a mere 1/16" away from the negative wire terminal! If it is that close, cut off an additional 1/4" of the red wire then re-heatshrink the switch - done.

[Scott Gerber]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bodywerks
	We must be talking about two different switches, because there are NO ELECTRONICS WHATSOEVER in the Smart-fly OR Fromeco (provided you orient the wires properly on the fromeco unit) pin/flag switches. It's just a barrel with two metal contacts inside that are not completing a circuit when the pin is removed(the open circuit is what causes the switching mechanism in the receiver to power up the receiver). The pin is made of metal for a reason - to complete a circuit. When it is installed, the circuit is complete, which is what is required to command the internal switch in the receiver to remove power from the receiver. The other reason I know 100%, absolutely, positively, for sure that these pin/flag switches work with the AR9100 is because I am using one for the AR9100 in my 42% Extra. You can't see the switch in this pic, but you can see the red, black and white lead that is plugged into the switch port and then the same lead coiled up in the upper righthand side of the pic. It goes right to the Smartfly pin/flag switch mounted on the side of the fuse.

Okay, we are talking about two different switches. I was not aware that there where strictly mechanical pin flag switches on the market and only thinking of the electronic types. We where talking about the same concept just coming around it from different directions...


Scott

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bodywerks
	We must be talking about two different switches, because there are NO ELECTRONICS WHATSOEVER in the Smart-fly OR Fromeco (provided you orient the wires properly on the fromeco unit) pin/flag switches. It's just a barrel with two metal contacts inside that are not completing a circuit when the pin is removed(the open circuit is what causes the switching mechanism in the receiver to power up the receiver). The pin is made of metal for a reason - to complete a circuit. When it is installed, the circuit is complete, which is what is required to command the internal switch in the receiver to remove power from the receiver. The other reason I know 100%, absolutely, positively, for sure that these pin/flag switches work with the AR9100 is because I am using one for the AR9100 in my 42% Extra. You can't see the switch in this pic, but you can see the red, black and white lead that is plugged into the switch port and then the same lead coiled up in the upper righthand side of the pic. It goes right to the Smartfly pin/flag switch mounted on the side of the fuse.

This is a power board with 3 electronic failsafe switches....

Roger

[GooseF22]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Scott Gerber
	The concept of the "fail safe" type switch is a bit tricky because it's reverse thinking. It take a switch to be switched on to turn off the receiver. Any mechanical switch will work as long as you build it correctly. All that is being done is taking the signal wire (orange) to ground (brown) to turn off the current flow from the battery to the servos. It's the same concept as a bind plug. If you start with a servo extension that plugs into the receiver, remove the red wire completely from the extension leaving only the orange and brown, those two wires can be used in any on-off slide switch or mounted to a Ernst style charging jack to the side of the fuse. The pin style switches wont work because they are fail safe type switches already designed to pass battery current. Using a bind plug and charging jack set up as a pin style switch would be about as close to that as you could get in my opinion. Scott

Scott, you know....you have sure alot of postings. ....... I was wondering why I havent seen you at the field....hmmm.... dont go geek on me. It was an awesome weekend of weather....where are you my friend?

goose