Great Planes Matt Chapman 1/3 scale Cap 580 ARF

[SleepyC]

Great Planes Matt Chapman 1/3 scale Cap 580...

Click here to read the entire review

[Jkoch713]

	Quote: Originally Posted by shyte
	so apart from a better covering scheme and a tunnel what else is there that makes this better than the old 580?

At fisrt glance, I thought not much....but almost everything is re-done... and NEWly constructed!....

Everything in the 2nd generation has the New construction methods writen all over it....
Lightening holes Galloooore... and almost all plywood and spruce stringers....
Almost not balsa...(NOw that is all the rage nowdays!)

THe hinges have been glued and set for you...(bonus)

[Jkoch713]

I have a 1st gen cap in a box right now as well.....
Have all the CF stff though.... and TI wheel axels....

Just as a word of advice.... Poor some thin CA down into the wings.... and it will give you many many
great flights....

I have a extra set of wings and stabs new in box as well...so It looks like i will be flyin that one for a while...

I may set up one st of wings with little control surfaces (redoo the the wings) and reiforce a few things (like much is needed)
and have it set up for SPEED@....

I think it would be a fun racer... It sure has a color scheme to match.... Only issue is the wings are quite thick...so probly more trubble than it's worth..

[3DKid1995]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Sukhoikid
	Aero-Works 100cc Extra $950 Aero-Works 100cc Extra 300 $1049 AW 100cc Edge $1049 AW Yak: $1049 Pilot RC Yak $849 33% Pilot RC Yak 35% $949 OMP Yak $950 Well there you go...

Krill KatanaS 33% $1,895 plus S&H

[motogman]

Can someone tell me the distance from the firewall to the spinner back plate on the cap 580 thanks

[Jkoch713]

26lbs with a 3w-110 using the stock and very heavy stock GP stand-off's (compared to other aftermarket standoffs)
is really great......
You could probly loose 1/2 lb just by switching those out!!!
I did on my CAP!!

Probly come in much lighter if you went with a Single and lightweight can....

I love the weight savings of a single, but you can't beat the sound, and sweet smoothness of
a boxer twin....

[Hibrass]

	Quote: Originally Posted by motogman
	Can someone tell me the distance from the firewall to the spinner back plate on the cap 580 thanks

MotoG,

It is 7 1/2 on the 1st Gen Cap580. I'm not sure about the 2nd gen one... But below is a link to the 2nd gen Manual..

http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma1286-manual.pdf

Luck,

Ed

[motogman]

Thanks Hibrass, yeah I have gen 1 also which I made electric that's why I need to know the distance manual doesn't say what it is on gen 2. I thought it be a direct swap over but seems like cowling goes back way to far at that distance. If anyone has theirs set up according to the manual with a DA engine can you please measure for me thanks

[Hibrass]

MotoGman,

I know the first time I test fitted my 1st Gen cowl on my 580 with a DL111 I was amazed at the amount of overlape on the Fuz... But it worked out great...

Good Luck,

Ed

[trickyvail]

Could someone tell me which parts arrive in the box with the fuselage?

From the photos in the review it looks like the wing joining tube is there but are there any other parts?

Thank you very much.

[aalain]

I am trying to determine if the wing and stab from the "GP Matt Champan 33% CAP 580" will fit the fuselage of the "GP Matt Chapman 33% Eagle". Has anyone attempted to fit the wings and stab from one onto the other??

Alternatively:
If someone has a 33% Eagle could you take some very precise measurements of the wing root. What I need to know are:

For the main wing:
1) The diameter of the alignment pins.
2) The distance between the alignment pins (centre to centre)
3) The distance between the centre of the front alignment pin to the centre of the wing joiner.
4) The distance between the centre of the rear alignment pin to the centre of the wing joiner. (#3 and #4 together should give a good idea of the offset of the joiner) . I already know that the diameter of the joiner is 1.5 inches.
5) The location of the wing bolt relative to the front alignment pin.

For the stab:
1) The distance between the 2 stab joiners (center to centre)

Another modeler and I are trying to fit the new Matt Chapman Fuselage to old sets of wings and stab.

Any help that you can provide would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks
Aurele Alain
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
aurele.alain@sympatico.ca

[Jkoch713]

	Quote: Originally Posted by aalain
	I am trying to determine if the wing and stab from the "GP Matt Champan 33% CAP 580" will fit the fuselage of the "GP Matt Chapman 33% Eagle". Has anyone attempted to fit the wings and stab from one onto the other?? Alternatively: If someone has a 33% Eagle could you take some very precise measurements of the wing root. What I need to know are: For the main wing: 1) The diameter of the alignment pins. 2) The distance between the alignment pins (centre to centre) 3) The distance between the centre of the front alignment pin to the centre of the wing joiner. 4) The distance between the centre of the rear alignment pin to the centre of the wing joiner. (#3 and #4 together should give a good idea of the offset of the joiner) . I already know that the diameter of the joiner is 1.5 inches. 5) The location of the wing bolt relative to the front alignment pin. For the stab: 1) The distance between the 2 stab joiners (center to centre) Another modeler and I are trying to fit the new Matt Chapman Fuselage to old sets of wings and stab. Any help that you can provide would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks Aurele Alain Ottawa, Ontario, Canada aurele.alain@sympatico.ca

I would like to know this as well....

Did you look at the measure ments of the main wingtube from tower hobbies website???
If you go under "replacement parts" for the Eagle 580, you will have your measurement for the wingtube...

Except for that part, you wouldn't have any issues placeing the wings on the Eagle 580 fuse....
Even if you had to move the anit-rotaion pins....

Take a look and let me know....

ALso, PM "THe TANK" and ask him what the measurements are...

[Jkoch713]

I have started making the provisions for my newly aquired MTW 75K cans for my da 100.

I have found that even though I had added CA to the firewall and epoxy ( the firewall is very strong to begin with) I was able to take it apart so that I could save all the wood, and move the supports outwards to give me plenty of room width wise...

How did I do it???
I used a HEAT GUN....It will soften ANY epoxy, so that it can be taken apart w/o breaking it...

In a world filled will ARF's , it is nice to know tha this works and works well for future projects...

I will be do a Full post on this on Rc _U_N_I_V_E_R_S_E_