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| Performance Aircraft Unlimited PAU Manufacturer direct technical support and product forum. |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Scale Pass! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Birch Bay, WA
Posts: 450
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Hi Dan, Sorry we wont be down in Monroe this year. Too many things going on and I am supposed to be in Vegas for IMAC during that time and I am juggling like crazy to make that. Ken
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Scale Pass! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Birch Bay, WA
Posts: 450
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Ok guys, I have some more pictures. First is of the hardware set. Next we have the goodies for the build. I am going to try and use a KS95 canister for the DA-85 with a 50mm drop header. The KS95 is not really the ideal canister for the motor as it's large and the fit will be tight. We'll see how that goes. For servos, I am using 6 8611's for ailerons, elevators, and a single 8711 for the rudder for both airplanes. Power is supplied by Fromeco. 3x 2600mAh Lithium Ion batteries. Two for the receiver and one for ign. Also 3x Fromeco regulators and a Wolverine switch. Man I love these switches. I single HD switch for ign. Ken
__________________ Performance Aircraft Unlimited Last edited by Ken-H; 01-11-2008 at 12:04 AM. |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Scale Pass! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Birch Bay, WA
Posts: 450
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Now on the some pictures of the inside. The firewall is marked for the thrust-line and offset center-line. I'll be providing DA-100 templates with the manual but for those that don't want to wait, all you have to do is center the DA-100 or 85 for that matter on the "X". I'll go more into that later. The antenna tube is optional and is just taped on the rudder tray and can be discarded for the 2.4 users. The paint matching to the covering is excellent. Ken
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| Rocketman ![]() Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Canada Eh? Age: 17
Posts: 1,781
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ken, you should let kyle fly this thing. lol. he'd probably drag the rudder on the miaden flight. ![]() harv
__________________ ---------------------------------------------------- Borderline IMAC Team Aztech Aero "Bad-ass bling for your planes" SE craft USA |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| Scale Pass! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Birch Bay, WA
Posts: 450
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OK, I am going to start with the elevators so I can get those out of the way. The bolt packages are all labeled as to what they go to, so finding parts is a snap. First you need to find the pre-drilled holes for the steel posts. All the hard points are pre-drilled for the hardware. Once found, I use an old soldering iron and melt the covering exposing the holes. An xacto works fine, I know...it's an old habit. Now I have installed the posts and used blue loc-tite on the post before you fasten it in like shown. Now we'll screw on the horns. Find the servo holes, cut the covering and install your servos with the output shaft facing the control surface. With the servos centered, install you arms. I've used 1.5" SWB double lock arms for this application. Next just put on a HD Dubro ball on the counter clockwise side of the 2-1/2" H9 push-rods, screw the other end into the horn and attach the the servo arm. Don't forgot to tighten all your locknuts. Repeat this operation for the ailerons using the 3" push rods.
__________________ Performance Aircraft Unlimited Last edited by Ken-H; 01-11-2008 at 12:20 AM. Reason: Typo king |
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| | #21 (permalink) |
| Scale Pass! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Birch Bay, WA
Posts: 450
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When installing the hardware in the wings, make sure that you install the horns at the same height from the hinge line (see attached). Also make sure your servo arms are parallel to the hinge line. By doing so you will have very little servo matching to do afterwards. Ken
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| | #22 (permalink) |
| Scale Pass! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Birch Bay, WA
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Mounting the landing gear is pretty straightforward. I like mounting the gear first as it avoids hanger rash from me, the table, and the tools on the table while I am working. First you’ll need to nock out the plywood opening the canister tunnel. Use a hobby knife on the small area not cut with a laser and lightly tap it out with a small hammer. Find the four holes for the main gear and the single hole for the tail wheel assembly. Again, grab that old soldering iron or xacto and clear the holes in the covering. Install the Dubro axles on the main gear and fasten it to the fuse with the 4 8/32 bolts with locknuts. Loc-tite is unnecessary here. Once the mains are on, insert the tail wheel assembly and lightly tap in flush with a small hammer. Next, mark the two hold downs and mount them with the four wood screws securing the tail wheel assembly. Remove the wood screws and coat the holes with thin CA, let dry, reinstall. Ken
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| Scale Pass! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Birch Bay, WA
Posts: 450
| OK guys, Now I am going install the Dubro wheels so there centered on the axels using the four Durbo collars. Be sure and use lock-tite on the setscrews. Demel an opening in the wheel pants so they will pass onto the axel. To get the right angle for the pants, I used a standard servo and placed it at the end of the pant resting the end on the rubber grommets of the servo. Mark the pants and drill and install the 4/40 blind nuts. Be sure and glue in the blind nuts and allow to cure. Now you can install the wheel pants with the 4/40 bolts and washers. Don’t forget to use loc-tite here again. Wheel pants tend to take the most vibration.
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