What software are you guy's using?

[esc]

Without a doubt you will be able to do what you want. You have made a good choice of software and the user base, as I have already said, is huge!

P.S.- There are also quite a lot of good articles and information about model design that can be found on personal web sites all over the world.

I would suggest that if you have any modelling magazines that you look closely at published plans - you can gain a lot of knowledge from working out how the designer intended his plane to be built, how it is drawn, and importantly how it is constructed.

Dave

[esc]

Rcpilot82 did you receive the DXF file of the leading edge sheeting I sent to you on Tuesday?

Just in case you did not please check the personal email address you gave me.

Regards,

Dave

[rcpilot82]

Dave, Yes I got the files you sent, Thanks. All the CNC files are ready, Rough cut material is ready. I had a few things came up that took priority over my hobby, but hang in there progress is being made. If everything goes as I planned it to, I should have something neat to show everyone about this plane. for materials, here is what I used.1/16" x 3" balsa = 8@24" and 3@16". 1/8" x 3" balsa = 4@24". 1/4" x 3" balsa = 2@8 3/4". 1/4" sq. balsa, I estimate that 6-8 sticks @ 36" will be fine. I also used a scrap section of 1/8" ply, and a 1.25" x 5.75" section of 1/16"ply. you will also need a small section of 1/4" sq. spruce.

[esc]

Good news Rob.

That's a lot more balsa than I thought would be needed :-)

I've been thinking about the wing tips again. I know you are planning to make both versions, which will definitely stop me pondering about it, but I am now of the belief that the square tips will help the plane to stall and after all a plane that won't stall isn't much good for 3-D is it! I mean how do you enter a decent spin if the plane won't flick. So on reflection I think you may find that they are the best. I really gotta stop thinking so much.

We are all waiting with bated breath for the build.

I notice that nobody else has posted a name for the plane so I have decided to call it after your suggestion - "R-Ampage 3D." I might create a logo for it if you tell me what colours you have in mind for the prototype?

I have made some more progress with the Striker but I am not showing it just yet. I have just spent hours on the wing finalising details like undercarriage mount, servo mounts - must have tried about 4 different iterations for those before I decided on one. Just got to sort out the split flap linkages and the control horns and then I will post it on my thread.

Actually I have had a pretty annoying day - I swept a 3-D profile for the main undercarriage legs and was trying to constrain them to the assembly. Would they, they would not. It took me hours to discover there was an error on the swept profile of one section of the legs (1.4 degrees out of square) so when I tried to constrain them using axes and tangents it just would not work. Nothing worked.

Boy was I spitting feathers (Yorkshire expression) when I found out why. Just goes to show how a small hidden error can cause much lost time and frustration. I could have sworn that I saw the perpendicular symbol appear on those sections when I drew them.

Regards,

Dave

[rcpilot82]

Update.I opted to laser cut all the parts out and should have a "kit" tommorow evening. I have to look and see what covering I have at home for the colors. I know I will be using transparent monokote or ultrakote. I'll post what colors I have and we can go from there. I am hoping for rain this weekend so I can get out of housework and start the actual build. As far as the wingtips go, my skeeters (which strongly resemble your design) are IMO too snappy in a stall. So I feel the rounded tips are the way to go. Hang tight we will find out soon.

[rcpilot82]

parts are laser cut, I'm going to pick em up after work. I'll post pics when I get home this evening!!

[esc]

Rob, I am curious. You were keen to CNC mill these parts and then you suddenly switched to laser - is that because of the radiused corners that would have been left by milling and would then have needed cleaning out by hand (e.g. longeron cut-outs in the ribs)?

I would also like to know what the cutting charge was if you don't mind saying?

Regards,

Dave

[rcpilot82]

Dave, the reason I chose laser cutting over my mill is only due to time. My buddy was able to laser out the parts in no time flat and all I had to do was give him material and a color coded acad dwg. his laser uses color mapping to determine cut and engrave lines and widths. In a nutshell, I have been pressed for time this week and didn't want to stop the progress of this thread, so I called in a favor. If all goes well with this prototype I will more than likely cut another one on the mill to put lights in for night flying. As for the charge, my buddy and I help each other out with a lot of projects, so I don't know what it would cost for someone off the street to get one cut.

SO, here are the pics of the "kit" as designed by Dave (esc). I did make a few minor changes to help make it work using stock lengths and widths of material. The biggest things you will see are the keyhole tabbing system for the sheeting and main spar, and the fact that the whole elevator,stab,rudder,and ailerons are cut in finished, ready to cover state. this also helps with the building time. Dave that is probally why you didn't know why I used so much wood. all that is not shown in the pics are the balsa sticks to make the fuse,LE and TE.

Let me know what ya think!

[esc]

Hello Rob,

I don't wish to rain on your parade as everything looks so good but I think you have missed the point slightly with the "stick" build construction of the control surfaces. What you have now cutting from single pieces of sheet are some very short grained sections that are extremely weak and prone to breakage. I cannot stress strongly enough that I think you may be heading for trouble. I just don't want the plane you are taking so much effort to build folding at the first sign of stress.

Most of what you have is good just the ailerons, rudder, tailplane and elevator are not. I beg you to reconsider the construction of those parts.

I think that it would be expedient to cut out the offending sections of short grain in stages and replace them with "sticks" - that would save scrapping them altogether and a lot of time also. If you did that section by section you would maintain the original profile without ending up with a kit of parts and regain the necessary strength. This however a bit of a compromise and still not the best solution.

Whilst I am beating you with a stick (sorry) I cannot help but say that I am not too keen on splitting the wing leading edge sheeting or the main spar at the centre either. Might I suggest that you fit a "fish plate" to the spar to spread the loading. If it is absolutely necessary to split items such as this my recommendation would have been a scarf joint, i.e. cut at an angle so the glue area is greatly increased and half of each of the two parts spans the centre line of the joint (much stronger).

I am really sorry to be the bearer of ill tidings.

Regards,

Dave

[rcpilot82]

Dave, Constructive critisism(sp) is accepted. I have a few points for your consideration. As for the surfaces being weak due to lack of cross grain, I agree and understand completely with having to splice out the ailerons as I could not rotate them on the sheet to make it strong enough (I was aware of this when I was laying out the sheets but I figured I'd try though). I did however rotate the tail surfaces to allow for a diagonal grain and straight grain, after handling these pieces they are very strong and do not deflect any more than my skeeters do at this point. I will re-vamp the ailerons and give the tail surfaces a better look for weak spots and replace as needed.
In reply to your concern with using one continuous piece for the spar and sheeting. I have been using this method of splicing for years now with no failures at the splice. The strongest point of your plane is at that center section because of the fuse stringers and extra plates for radio eq. you have there. Every plane similar to this I have built has had a joint of some type in this area. these joints have been straight butt joints,scarf joints, zig zag joints, and keyhole joints. I have smashed my share of these planes and have NEVER seen a failure of the structure in this area. 90% of the failures occure behind the TE (due to deflection)and in the mid-wing section (due to various angles of stresses). I am confident that the splicing will not be a stregth issue in this design. However if you wish me to add a backup plate to the splice, I will do that.
On a personal note: Beat me with a stick as you wish, I will either have reasoning behind my method or not. I will share my opinions and we will come to a resolution to the issue.

[esc]

No, I don't think I have much more to say as you seem to have everything in hand.

I was intrigued by your jigsaw puzzle connections and you obviously have positive experiences with them, which I accept. I leave the decision as to whether to fit a fish plate to the spar joint up to you. You are also obviously aware of the short grain issues I mentioned so I am now looking forward to seeing the finished plane.

The other day I created a logo and have attached a PNG file for you to have a look at. Nothing is hard and fast about this and I would not be bothered if you decided not use it - I just think that the plane might like good with a name on it. Obviously if you do use it the colours should be based on your chosen scheme.

Regards,

Dave

[rcpilot82]

Dave, I hope you are not offended by my previous responce. I tend to come acrost direct when discussing technical matters. I will see if I can find someone who can cut the logo out at a reasonable cost. I am pretty sure I have the following colors in light covering; yellow,orange,green,red,purple, and maybe some blue and clear.