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| CAD /CNC Forum Discussion and file sharing for CAD and CNC programs |
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| | #121 (permalink) |
| Uber Contributer ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 150
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Rob, me offended - no way! I had a similar conversation with Spooky not too long ago and I told him that I am a Yorkshireman, we are straight talkers and appreciate the same in return. You just keep on as you are and we will get along fine. Re the logo - if you can find someone to cut it I will send you an AutoCAD drawing or DXF file as the attached image is very poor quality. BTW just because I have posted a logo don't think you are obliged to use it - you may hate it for all I know? I was just thinking about the short grained sections again - you could apply some thin cyano that would add a lot of strength without adding much weight. That also reminds me of something I meant to mention - hardening mounting holes (servos, motor and hatch) with cyano. Regards, Dave Last edited by esc; 07-17-2009 at 03:27 PM. |
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| | #122 (permalink) |
| But I Like the Cookie!!! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western, pa, usa Age: 26
Posts: 773
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Dave, Believe it or not I was thinking about trying thin CA before junking a part,just for grins and giggles. for as short of length as most of the offending pieces are, The thought crossed my mind to try that! Great minds must think alike! LOL. As for the motor mount holes and such, I ALWAYS use thin CA for added strength in these areas. They are calling for rain this afternoon and evening, if it does, i can start the build. I won't be able to start the fuse though as I forgot to print out the full size plans at work. No problem, got lots to do untill then! I will have to look into getting the logo printed, it is fine by me. That will be the last thing to go on anyway, so you have untill then to make any changes you wish. I have all the covering,hardware,glue, and electronics ready and set aside for this build so we are good to go.
__________________ Airfoilz Field Rep. Necessity is the mother of all invention (unknown) My club home page www.lhmac.org www.crackroll.com www.cnczone.com www.3dxhobbies.com |
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| | #123 (permalink) |
| Uber Contributer ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 150
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Excellent Rob, I can't wait to see the build - it's rather like being an expectant father. You would know all about that of course. I trust that all is well with the mother to be? Dave |
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| | #124 (permalink) |
| But I Like the Cookie!!! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western, pa, usa Age: 26
Posts: 773
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Dave, Yes all is well with the Mother to be, thanks for asking. As for the plane, I started getting things glued together. I started by gluing up the splices with titebond, not CA. Alot of this build will use titebond instead of CA. My reasoning behind this is that I have found that CA is rather brittle on such thin wood and is more prone to stress cracking than titebond or other white glues. a club member also did a test where he weighed out one oz of white glue and CA from thier bottles, let them dry and re-weighed them. the results were that the CA came in at just under one oz and the white glue lost over 85% of its weight. so, when possible on small stuff, I use titebond. anyway, here are a few pics of the splices. I also used thin CA to strengthen up the straight grain pieces of the flying surfaces as discussed erlier. we will see how that goes when dry. (I did not use kicker because i wanted the ca to soak into the grain as far as possible)
__________________ Airfoilz Field Rep. Necessity is the mother of all invention (unknown) My club home page www.lhmac.org www.crackroll.com www.cnczone.com www.3dxhobbies.com |
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| | #125 (permalink) |
| Uber Contributer ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 150
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Hi Rob, I have never used Titebond - does it sand well? The CA you have used looks to be sitting on the top surfaces more like the medium variety in consistency? I would have thought that the thin stuff would have soaked in almost immediately if applied directly to the end grain. I have known it to penetrate straight through a sheet of 1/16" balsa. Of the varieties out there I like the Bob Smith Industries stuff the best. What make do you favour? Regards, Dave |
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| | #126 (permalink) |
| But I Like the Cookie!!! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western, pa, usa Age: 26
Posts: 773
|
Dave, the titedond sands well when used in a thin layer. as for the CA, I am using mercury thin CA. the reason it looks like it is just laying on top of the wood is because it is still very cold. I store all my ca's in the freezer to prolong there life and keep them in a controlled environment. I have been doing this for years. as the ca gets to room temp it all soaks into the wood.
__________________ Airfoilz Field Rep. Necessity is the mother of all invention (unknown) My club home page www.lhmac.org www.crackroll.com www.cnczone.com www.3dxhobbies.com |
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| | #127 (permalink) |
| But I Like the Cookie!!! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western, pa, usa Age: 26
Posts: 773
|
Progress for today, main wing structure glued up. Each piece by itself is REALLY fragile (thats why no pins) but once glued up appears to be strong and light. I can't help to think how awsome this would look all lit up for night flying with the open structure. One thing at a time though. FWIW to get to this point it took me just over an hour of normal paced building with no interuptions.
__________________ Airfoilz Field Rep. Necessity is the mother of all invention (unknown) My club home page www.lhmac.org www.crackroll.com www.cnczone.com www.3dxhobbies.com |
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| | #129 (permalink) |
| But I Like the Cookie!!! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western, pa, usa Age: 26
Posts: 773
|
Yeah a bit old school. But it works!
__________________ Airfoilz Field Rep. Necessity is the mother of all invention (unknown) My club home page www.lhmac.org www.crackroll.com www.cnczone.com www.3dxhobbies.com |
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| | #130 (permalink) |
| Uber Contributer ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 150
|
Hi Rob, It's coming along. Do you mind if I make a suggestion, and please don't take this as criticism, but have you thought of using a dampened artists brush to spread the glue along the joint line. All you need is a thin fillet of glue between adjacent parts. You seem to have a slight excess of glue in some places and not enough in others. Regards, Dave |
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| | #131 (permalink) |
| But I Like the Cookie!!! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western, pa, usa Age: 26
Posts: 773
|
Yeah, I noticed that too. I used a toothpick to apply the glue cause I didn't have any brushes available. I am going to have to get some for the rest of the build. I usually use either a toothpick or a brush for this. it looks worse than it is cause I wiped off the excess glue aftarwards. after the main framing dried, I used thin CA in the joints like the spars to glue them.
__________________ Airfoilz Field Rep. Necessity is the mother of all invention (unknown) My club home page www.lhmac.org www.crackroll.com www.cnczone.com www.3dxhobbies.com |
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