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| Git 'R Dun - Giant Scale! From the box to the runway. Whatever it is, show us how you build 'em! (build threads only) |
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| | #49 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cheney, WA Age: 29
Posts: 238
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So here is the process for the second slab side half. 1- Router a matching hole through the original ply through the balsa 2- slide the stab tube through and place the second plate on the tube. 3- Glue gets applied to the balsa structure and the two slab sides are squared up to eachother to cure. |
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| | #50 (permalink) |
| Shane Quale ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ramstein, AB Germany Age: 27
Posts: 550
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Levi, When you say glue, what type are you using? Thanks
__________________ Shane Quale "Flip It, Fly It, Hover It, Land It" TEAM SHS www.shaneshobbyshack.com |
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| | #51 (permalink) |
| Super Contributer ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: West Palm Beach, Florida Age: 34
Posts: 100
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I used to think I was pretty good with my hands and stuff, but you guys on these build threads... you just take it to a whole other level. It's just insane watching you make art out of a pile of balsa and ply. Love these threads, so keep it up! I'll go back to my ARF now... LOL. - Wayne |
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| | #52 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cheney, WA Age: 29
Posts: 238
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The motor box was done with 5 min. Epoxy. I might catch some flak for that... but I have reasons. It cures a little softer than the 30 min stuff. That is the importiant thing, because it can take a flexing with out snapping. The glue joint is still much stronger than the wood.... so no worries. The gear plate with Gorilla Glue The truss structure/sheet joinging with Tite Bond White Glue The formers on the M Box with Titebond (will get a brace later, stay tuned....) I like the white titebond because it dries clear and sands well... but you have to use the right amount. It gets soaked into the balsa pretty well as it cures, so you need to use more than you think.... maybe it's just my impression after using Gorilla Glue for so long.... That stuff must be used very spairingly. CA is only used in a couple places. I hit the corner joints of the truss structure with thin to harden the balsa and "Lock" it in. I tack glue parts for sanding with a small drop of thick. The wings will get Gorilla glue for the skins. Glue gets spread thin on the balsa. I wet the foam pretty good. Then you bag 'em... you end up with about 1/4" penetration into the bead foam with glue.... Very light and strong with the expansion factor. |
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| | #53 (permalink) |
| Shane Quale ![]() Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ramstein, AB Germany Age: 27
Posts: 550
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Levi, Thanks so much for the in depth explanation on the glue. Keep up the good work!
__________________ Shane Quale "Flip It, Fly It, Hover It, Land It" TEAM SHS www.shaneshobbyshack.com |
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| | #54 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cheney, WA Age: 29
Posts: 238
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Well today is the big build day.... I wish I had some kicker for titebond.... I feel like I'm watching paint dry.... M Box Formers are all squared up and glued.... Sides are in place for placement only... They don't get the sticky stuff yet. |
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| | #55 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cheney, WA Age: 29
Posts: 238
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In case you missed it.... I move the sticks around the wing bolt plates forward to sandwich the ply plate... but I goofed. They should have gone BACK.... F-3 needs the stick in that spot for gluing.... so I put a few grams back into the area....
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| | #59 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cheney, WA Age: 29
Posts: 238
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I don't glue the wing tubes supports to the sides during the side construction... The motor box and formers get squared and glued first... Then the supports are slid onto the tube and clamped to the sides... This gets them in the exact location with no sanding.
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