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| Git 'R Dun - Giant Scale! From the box to the runway. Whatever it is, show us how you build 'em! (build threads only) |
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| | #37 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Posts: 1,679
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Next step is gluing the horizontal stab! I will complete the wing servos and linkage adjustment towards the end! I'll try to get something out for you tonight. I got to go and pick up The Mighty DA100 (Thanks to DA and all the staff) that I bought as they left the note instead of the box:-) I will work on it tomorrow night and all Saturday! Thanks for participating guys. Wait until the end as I am going to introduce some new power systems and will go through the AR9000 installation as well. I do not have a X9303 but I am using the Spektrum module with my 10X with success! Reza |
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| | #38 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Posts: 1,679
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Thank you for your kind comments.
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| | #39 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Posts: 1,679
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OK since I have to go pick up my engine package tomorrow, let's get going with the H-Stab installation. One thing that is really important in this step is to make sure that the H.stab is completely centered and square! This part always takes me some time as I just can't get enough measurement. I probably checked the measurement 10-15 times before gluing! Two measurement is all you need: 1. From the tip of the stab to the fuse should be equal on both sides 2. From the tip of the stab to behind the turtle deck should be equal as well. 3. Then you mark it with a sharpy or something you can clean with alcohol swabs and is removable 4. Use a new blade (don't try to save on blades for this part ) and remove the covering 1/8" inside the marking, don't cut it right on the lines.5. Iron the covering to make sure it is not loose 6. Reinsert the stab, double or triple check the measurement and 7. Apply Super thin CA as the plane standing upright on your stand or work table! Do not use kicker! it makes it brittle. YOu will see how CA will be sucked inside. After applying couple of rounds of CA to the top part of the stab and making sure it is dry, then flip the plane to inverted and do the same thing from the bottom. Again make sure CA is set because otherwise you will have CA running all over the covering. Finally do the same thing with plane in knife edge attitude from the sides. Now to me this is more than enough but it won't hurt if you glue the stab to the horizontal bracing reaching from inside the fuse. Use medium CA on that part. Please see attached pics. Reza P.S I forgot to mention you need to be very careful not to scar the stab and balsa. If that happened do not ignore it and apply some thin CA to the area. This is very very important! Last edited by Reza; 09-07-2007 at 10:06 AM. |
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| | #41 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Posts: 1,679
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Let me ask you guys this. In what order do you prefer building your airplane. i.e getting hinging done first, mounting landing gear second,... I have been doing this in certain orders and that's how I have written all my assembly manuals but modelers tend to make their own orders. I would like to ask you to list them for me from your perspective. At the end I will get a combination of all and write the manual in the order that is closest to what most modelers would do. I would appreciate your inputs on this. Reza |
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| | #42 (permalink) |
| Uber Contributer ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: USA
Posts: 163
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On a big plane, I always mount the landing gear as early as possible. There is less chance of the fuselage being damaged if it can "stand" on its own. Are you going to cut out the front of the cowl (the picture of the Python on the opening of the Flying Giants site shows the entire round part cut out -- as opposed to a rectangular cut out)? |
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| | #43 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Conroe, Texas U.S.A.
Posts: 1,272
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Reza, Post # 27 asked about the front opening of the cowl. Is this being cut open all the way or is it being cut to resemble a baffle for the motor? WT PS: Thrilled to no end to know the wingspan! You're a good sport after all my razzing! |
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| | #45 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() Join Date: May 2006 Location: Florida
Posts: 57
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WT, Look at the opening page photo again. When I look at it, I see the front of the cowl blacked out above and below the horizontal opening slot. This is how it was at Joe Nall. Recall the photos of this airplane at Toledo had the half circles painted blue like the nose of the cowl and lots of folks pointed to that saying it should be blacked out which was done when the airplane was assembled in May. Kevin |
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| | #46 (permalink) |
| Busted.... DOH!!!! ![]() |
thats one SICK bipe!! im watching this! looks great so far.. mike
__________________ www.hcrcm.org (my flying club......) http://www.outdoorventuresschwinn.com/ WORK http://www.mbphotos.exposuremanager.com/ my photo galleries (other work) ![]() Why fly Heli's when airplanes hover just as good! |
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| | #47 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Conroe, Texas U.S.A.
Posts: 1,272
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Yeah, I was seeing the same thing you were. I was also wondering if they have discovered you can fly the Python without that "baffle" or if that is just a static cowl for pictures. Reza, jump in here and tell us. WT | ||||||||||||||||||
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| | #48 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||
| WHATS CRACKALAKIN!!!!!!!!!!!!! ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Wentzville, MO Age: 32
Posts: 6,732
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Bingo! Get her up on its gear..... | ||||||||||||||||||
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