Build: Kimball-Somenzini Python 100

[butternifedge]

I too have cans on my 102" Yak and would like to try stock mufflers with smoke on the bipe. Do you think the stock mufflers are a better choice for a smoke setup? I am not hard set on any muffler setup in particular yet, any advantage to one over the other with reguard to smoke? As I understand it, the stock mufflers and the canisters are about the same for power with the cans quieter. I am leaning towards a bit more noise with that smoke for the total effect on that low knife edge pass! Reza, can you share your thoughts on the plus and minuses as you see it for cans vs. stock? SMOKE ON!!!

[Reza]

Hello butternifedge:

Thank you for your question and it is awesome to see that your first post is on this thread Thanks again. I actually will give you detailed comparison this evening. I have some pictures that I need to upload for comparison purposes that are on my home computer.

Thanks again for participating,
Reza

[Reza]

All Right! Engine installation:

Let's just start with few pictures. I'll get to the explaining part later

[ben_beyer]

Are those the MTW 75's?

I'd like to try some BMB cans personally myself.

[Reza]

MTW75, 50mm drop with flex header.
No need to cut the header at all.

Correction to canister installation:

Do not cut Teflon coupler or header!

Force the Teflon coupler into the header until there is only 1/4” of Teflon coupler between the can and header that is not supported byeither. Since it would be very difficult to push the Teflon coupler that far over the header, you need to use
your heat gun/torch and heat up the Teflon coupler and push it over the
header. It is extremely important that there is only 1/4” of Teflon coupler
not supported by Can and the header. Do not cut the header or the
coupler. Length of both pipes including header should be identical.

Clamp the Teflon couplers to the headers and slid them in the tunnel.
The exit of the left can looking from pilot’s view would be more forward
than the left can.

[butternifedge]

Reza,
Great pic's. I see the stock mufflers are a pound and a quarter lighter than the cans. Hope you are going to tell me that the stock mufflers make better smoke, cost less and have no power loss over the cans. O.K. I'm back to reality and look forword to your updates.

[Reza]

You know I am running stock muffler on my 102" that has smoke system and I have absolutely no complaints. You might gain about 50-100 with cans in compare to stock mufflers. Power increase is really not the reason to get cans. I would look into Tuned pipes for that purpose. Cans normally are for noise and sometimes cowl installation is a lot cleaner and easier. Some people feel throttle transition is smoother. I don't have personally much experience as I mostly use stock mufflers. I have flown planes on cans that were not mine and I prefer the stock based on my limited experience to cans for 3D. Again this when noise is not a problem.

	Quote: Originally Posted by butternifedge
	Reza, Great pic's. I see the stock mufflers are a pound and a quarter lighter than the cans. Hope you are going to tell me that the stock mufflers make better smoke, cost less and have no power loss over the cans. O.K. I'm back to reality and look forword to your updates.

[50%plane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Reza
	This is a very easy step to do. Go over the plane with the heat gun before you install the mid-wing section. Insert Cabanes into the fuse such that the tabs facing away from fuse. There are 8 4-40 10mm screws. All you need to do is to bolt them. Make sure to use locktite on the screws. To make it easy for you and have better access there are slots cut out in the bracing for your driver or allen wrench! Very cool! Please see below pics. I think no more glueing on the entire plane!

Reza, would it be practical to use Hi-Lok's when installing the cabanes, or would it crush the wood before they broke?


50%

[bigredav2002]

I saw QQ fly his last weekend with greeves tuned pipes. Sounded GREAT and the power on upline was amazing

[Reza]

For throttle you need to drill a hole as shown in the pictures . I am showing measurements as well.

[Reza]

My ignition set up is one 2cell-2150 Duralite Li-Ion battery along with Digi-Switch. This is the lightest set up for ignition that I know. The Digi-Switch is very light and has a built-in regulator that regulates the voltage at 5.5 or so. You can use a 4 cell NI-MH and a regular switch as well.


Here's the way I mount my batteries, ignition and receivers.

First I cover the bottom or where ever foam is going to sit on, with masking tape.
Then I CA the foam (DuBro) to masking tape.
After that CA the sticky back Velcro to the foam and it's ready. The other side will also have opposite side of sticky back Velcro but I CA that as well.

The advangtage of this method is all you need to do is to take the masking tape off the part and you will have a brand new looking part for the next project. Also in case of receiver it will float and vibration will be minimal on the unit. I do not strap my receivers when I use this method. Just make sure to use Industrial strength Velcro.

Here are few pics.

[Reza]

Cowl does not need cutting if you used cans or tuned pipes but for stock mufflers you need to cut the cowl. I made the holes fairly large but in reality you may or may not need them that large as behind the canopy is all open. If you believe in 2:1 then open it like my pictures otherwise, at your own discretion.