Great Planes NEW 38% Extra

[Mithrandir]

Now you can use the supplied hinges to hinge the rudder to the fuselage. Be sure to put a small drop of oil on the knuckle of the hinge... be really careful to not contaminate the bonding surfaces with oil!!!
I used 30 minute epoxy so that I had adequate time.
The instructions are very clear on this.

[McFueler]

How much is this kit going to cost ? I looked on Great Planes web site and saw the kit and lot of info about it but I did not see a price .

[Mithrandir]

$999.99

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSWA3&P=V

[McFueler]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Mithrandir
	$999.99 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSWA3&P=V

Not bad for a kit that is built and covered ! I would like to know how it flies .

[luv2flyguy]

There is something that I am wondering about,the servo arms that you assemble. Are you not afraid of the "plastic" hub inside the metal arms? I would be afraid that the spline inside the plastic would strip out, and that spells trouble with a capital T! Maybe I'm just a skeptic here but I think you should use an all metal arm, something like a uni-hub or an Air Wild MLP or the MPI,or SWB metal arms. Just my two cents.

[Jason Michael]

	Quote: Originally Posted by luv2flyguy
	There is something that I am wondering about,the servo arms that you assemble. Are you not afraid of the "plastic" hub inside the metal arms? I would be afraid that the spline inside the plastic would strip out, and that spells trouble with a capital T! Maybe I'm just a skeptic here but I think you should use an all metal arm, something like a uni-hub or an Air Wild MLP or the MPI,or SWB metal arms. Just my two cents.

I was thinking the same thing. All my giants have metal. I am scared to death i will lose one from a phenolic servo horn stripping.

[Mithrandir]

12 flights.. with blenders and KE Spins.. snaps...so far.. all good.

[DA2000]

If the nylon horns fit on the servos well, there will not be any issues.

I used the nylon centers on several big planes, including a 3.3 Comp-Arf Yak for many hundreds of flights.

Another option would be AirWild uni-hubs, but I don't know if they would have to be modified for the hole locations.

[McFueler]

Rocket City used to make and sell arm like this and I used them in the past and they did strip out and I went to all aluminum arms , no more problems .

[Mithrandir]

OK.. we gotta finish this plane up! SInce Ron was helping me, He assembled the tank. It is a 3 line system. Vent, Fuel to carb, and fill/drain. Two Clunks. He also built the small tray/mount for the throttle servo. He also mounted the Fuel Tank Tray and the Receiver tray. I was securing the fuel lines and mounting the Throttle Servo. The instructions are good on this. Though it took me a couple tries before I got the hole thru the firewall for the throttle pushrod in the correct location. The hole needs to be just under the lower corner of the engine box.

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Be sure to sand the bonding surfaces for a good joint!
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Be sure to get a nice fillet of Epoxy around the bonded joint!
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Nicce touch for GP to have put screw driver access holes in the rail!
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[Mithrandir]

Lets get the Rudder rack done now.
Assemble all the rod-ends/ball links and turnbuckles to the lengths shown. Bond the plywood backup structure to the bottom of the alu. rack. And then screw the servos into the rack. The diagram in the manual didn't show the little conical shaped bushing that goes through the tillar arm...

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Now, starting with the front servo, attach the servo arm as close to perpendicular as possible. Subtrim as necessary. Then attach the arm (with pushrods/turnbuckles attached) to the second servo and using the subtrim, turnbuckles and ATV, match the second servo to the first servo. And then repeat the process for the third servo. You should be able to get all three servos quiet at the center and at the extreme throws. Sometimes there is a bit of friction in the ball links that cause the buzzing, but if you tap the servo arms with your fingers, you can get'em quiet. (SOme users will be using Match Boxes.. simply duplicate this process with the match box).

Once they are all matched, attach the tillar arm to the tray and the last two ball link ends to the tillar arm. I added washers above the ball links so they can never fall off!
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[Mithrandir]

We can now place the rack into the fuselage. Inside there are two rather substantial rails that go from side to side. These are located under the canopy behind the wing tube. Place the rudder rack on these rails in the center. Match drill holes thru the rack's tabs for the supplied #4 x 1/2" screws. Use a "Jobber" length drill bit, or a drill bit in a Dremel to get inside the fuse to drill these holes. Be carefull NOT to poke thru the rail and into the covering on the bottom of the fuselage. Harden the screw holes with thin CA and then put a dab of RTV on the screws to hold'em in place.

Now grab all the hardware for the rudder Pull-Pull cables and assemble as shown. My setup does have a bit of slack at the extreme throw, but this has not proven to be a problem.
Finish this up by hooking up the tail wheel with the supplied springs.... DONE!

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