Sukhoi 29KS

[FENWAYFLYER]

Very clean looking work. I am using West Systems for the first time on a composite-arf that took a dirt nap. My first coat was a little rough dew to major damage but everything is taking shape. Much respect keep up the good work.

[Rod]

Hi Rick
That's a big job you've got there. That,s why I like to mold my own. Always got backup parts.

[FENWAYFLYER]

Yea tell me about it. I got the first coat on today and did some sanding. You inspired me to take my time and do good work. Thanks.

[Rod]

Well I gave it yet more filling and undercoat and then an indicator coat of splattered on laquer. This is so I know that I have sanded all over with the final sand of fine paper. I have decided not to do panel lines as they will probably get lost when undercoating the finished molding.

[brusty]

Rod, what is the green tinge, is that the Zytec you mentioned, or have you given it a coat of PVA mould release as well ? Regards, Barrie R.

[exciter900rr]

I think it's the guide coat he mentioned earlier to make sure on the final sanding that he would go over the entire workpiece... once there is no "color" left, you are done sanding. I usually use a color that contrasts the base color much more, but typically, you just use what you have laying around for this step...

[Rod]

Thats right Ken. That thar paint has history it is Thunderbird 2 green left over from a film model I built for Peter Jackson some years ago.

[exciter900rr]

NICE! ....The subtle touches that go into these birds.... no one would ever know....... Great job!

[Rod]

Well as you can imagine I am over sanding. I have sanded through the undercoat in a few places but I am happy with how it feels under the hand. I could spend another couple of weeks on undercoat but I feel I have reached the point of diminishing returns. I am not putting a top coat on as the Zytec sealer does the same thing except better.
Now for the splitter plates and dams which I will do one at a time starting with the canopy as the plug will be turned into the vacuum forming tool after molding.

[Rod]

Had to mark and cut out the splitter plate for the pipe cowl. Squared it up and marked it as in picture. Mocked it up to see how it would work out. This mold requires a different procedure than I am used to as I am now using the Zyvax release system. I am applying the release before assembling the splitter and dams. Then I will seal all the gaps with plastercine and put on the registration buttons. Have sealed the wood first with acrylic laquer.

[Rod]

Got everything sealed and released. Screwed everything together. Sealed the gaps with plastercine (modelling clay). Note the tools for this job. Made little blocks for registering the two halves. Applied a thickened mixture of epoxy tinted with concrete tinter powder. The consistency is such that it wont sag. It will get 3 coats of this with glass pressed into the third coat.

[Rod]

Got 2 more coats of epoxy gelcoat on and put a layer of 200 gm glass on the last coat. Let that go off and put on some chop strand matt. Well it just wouldnt go arround the sharp corners of the pattern so I ripped the chop strand off and put some more layers off 200 gm glass on which worked well. I will use the chop strand on the main fuse mold where I can lay it down on large smooth surfaces.