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| Gas Engines and Power Discuss all aspects of giant scale power systems |
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| | #38 (permalink) |
| Doo It! Doo It! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: dallas, texas
Posts: 95
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Finally finished my Test Stand so I can run the engine and get everything adjusted. AT 63, kneeling down and flipp'n engines gets old real quick. My test stand puts the engine at waist high with work space on each side for tools etc. The plug that came with my engine sparks OK, but looks a little black so bought some new NGK plugs so can read the mixture. NAPA Auto Parts sells an NGK CMR7H wich is an exact cross. Their P/N is 3066 and it has the fixed plug terminal instead of the screw on one the Torch plug has. Trike |
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| | #39 (permalink) |
| Doo It! Doo It! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: dallas, texas
Posts: 95
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Forgot to mention that the mounting bolts supplied are Chinese grade 8.8 which is equal to US grade 5 so they are plenty strong. The bolts, nice blue anodized spacers and the matching blind nuts supplied with the engine makes it very easy to bolt up to your fire wall. The hex "T" wrench also supplied is long enough that it puts the handle out past anything on the engine so you can tighten the bolts with complete revolution of the wrench. Trike |
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| | #40 (permalink) |
| if it ain't broke don't fix it ![]() Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: rockhampton,queensland,australia
Posts: 96
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speaking of spark plugs...... mine has failed. the ceramic insulator has come away from the metal body of the plug. you can turn the ceramic quite freely inside the body. i have ordered some NGK plugs so i can try to start this engine. the crankshaft has also gone tight so something isnt right there either. im thinking of disassembling this engine to find the source of the "tightness" a tight engine is a sign of something wrong. more to follow soon...... cheers craig |
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| | #41 (permalink) |
| Doo It! Doo It! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: dallas, texas
Posts: 95
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Hey Hardtop351 the "tightness" you are seeing is the gas and rings striping the oil off the cylinder wall. Craig and I both experienced the same thing at first. That is why weed eater engines have rounded rings in them so they are easy to turn over and start. This engine has square rings like Frank sells. If you squirt some after run oil in the exhaust port or down the plug hole you will see it frees right up and flips over normally. I had a big concern about this late last week, called Jim and he said it was gas washing the cylinder dry as it is a new engine and hasn't got hot from running so the oil can plate the cylinder wall. Sounded strange to me, but I can assure you after running the engine it will go away. I replaced my spark plug right off with an NGK CMR7H NAPA stock number 3066. I has the fixed plug wire tip unlike the screw on tip the Torch has. If suggest you give Jim and Western Hobbies a call and he will explain what is going on with the engine to you. I heard his run over the phone. These little engines run like a wiss watch. I will have a full report on how mine runs, what prop and RPMs in a few days. Regards - Trike |
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| | #42 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Schiller Park ,IL
Posts: 692
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HI, I have been busy, but, I have been installing the GF26i in my 68" Extreme Flight Yak-54 over the last few days. I am close to completion. Forecast for 50 degree or more on Sunday here in Chicago!! THe field will be a wet nasty sloppy mess, but I hear more than a few people are jone'sing to fly. So, this thing should go if I can get her to run, I am not doing the bench test at first. Everything looks good, sparks good, I am changing the plug to an NGK. AND...I am running a ground wire from the case of the ignition to the crankcase. I have a remote kill and a switch on the plane, with 1100mah mini-nimh;s at 3oz. The only prop I could get that was close to what I want at the LHS was a Master Airscrew wood Scimitar 16 x 8 . I am not expecting thrilling performance from that prop. I needed to add 1/2 inch spacers on the mounting studs to get the correct cowl to prop distance. I plan on flying a few planes Sunday, hopefully this will be one of them. I have been taking lots of pics and will post them in a complete set after it is ready to "turn the key" . 10oz tank gas conversion. saves weight on the 16oz from the YS1.10 it is replacing. |
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| | #43 (permalink) |
| Doo It! Doo It! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: dallas, texas
Posts: 95
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Bosshoss that sounds good. Give us details of your "first flight". My Laser 200 will be ready week from this Sunday for maiden flight. I have over 2 hours on engine with Hawk 16X8 prop ( Looks like a XOAR with another name) runs like a Swiss watch. If first run of day, Choke venturi with thumb (EI off ) flip 10 times, turn on EI will start 2nd or 3rd flip. If already run choke and flip 3 or 4 times (EI off) , turn on EI and will almost always start FIRST flip! I will post some RPM numbers next week when my XOAR props get here. Will do comparison to 16X8 Pro Zinger for kicks and maybe an MS 16X8 also. Trike |
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| | #44 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Schiller Park ,IL
Posts: 692
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Sunday maiden here, too. I am not going to expect great performance with this Master Airscrew woodie scimitar. I am looking forward to firing the little engine up, hopefully it will be flying by the late afternoon Sunday after a tank or two on the ground.
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| | #45 (permalink) |
| if it ain't broke don't fix it ![]() Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: rockhampton,queensland,australia
Posts: 96
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not happy jan!!!!! i got my new spark plugs this arvo and went home to hopefully start this engine. after 2.5 hours of trying to start it and swapping carbs to eliminate problems it STILL wouldnt start!!!. yes there was PLENTY of spark....yes there was fuel getting into the engine....removal of the plug confirmed this. however...it still wont start. it would run on any prime i sucked into the engine but it just wont keep running. and i now know why.... the front shaft seal is not sealing at all. i applied soapy water to check for leaks and found the seal happily bubbling away. and due to this the engine doesnt create enough vaccum to draw fuel fron the carb and into the engine. the screwdriver is pointing to the gaps between the seal and housing. i have since removed this seal from the engine and as you can see the outside sealing surface is severly damaged. the seal was gently removed and no further damage was caused in its removal from the housing. i will be trying to get a new seal tomorrow and fit it....everything else is unchanged cheers craig |
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| | #47 (permalink) |
| if it ain't broke don't fix it ![]() Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: rockhampton,queensland,australia
Posts: 96
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no mike...i have gone and gotten my own seal and i also have got 2 new bearings....thses bearings feel very gritty to me and so while it is all apart i will replace them. and yes RCIGN1...i will be using the bearing type with a seal in the front housing. will post more photos as i go cheers craig |
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| | #48 (permalink) |
| if it ain't broke don't fix it ![]() Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: rockhampton,queensland,australia
Posts: 96
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ive spent most of the night here still trying to start this engine. and it STILL wont start. its got 2 new bearings on the crank AND a new shaft seal at the front and STILL no joy in getting it to run. i think the CDI unit has got something to do with it....i hear high voltage sparks being made even when the crank isnt turning. i tested this theory by using a test plug that i have and found that the CDI unit aint working as it should. it still sparks as it should but not when you want it to. also guys....DONT be heavy handed in tightening up that little spark plug either. ive broken 2 plugs now. the thread separates from the body if you lean on them too much.the second one being an NGK plug. i have taken some pix and will post them soon cheers craig |
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