CRRC Pro GF26I

[3Dguy]

I've been using the KISS method for a long time, but it's a more redneck version...

[2robinhood]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	Why you talk about them in past tense? What happened? Did you try to run the first one on 4.8 volts? This is driving me nuts. I just tried a different 4.8v and it will fire up a few turns and stop. As soon as I replace it with a 6v it runs more or less normally. Now what could be happening? Is the ignition going bad? Should I buy a new ignition or just a 6v pack?

As Ken said, I went with two 100cc planes only.
Everytime I went to the field, I only took the 50cc and 100cc planes ( mostly the 100cc plane ).
So I decided to sell everything off and only have two 100cc planes.
Cut way down on items needed to support the planes also.
Same props, sparkplugs, mufflers, wrenches, etc.
No I have four props , two on the planes , two as back ups ( not 15 or more ).

On my first 26cc my box and manual said 4.8 - 6 volt packs.
I started with a 6 v Nimh pack. Then newer engines where coming out and the manual and box said to use 4.8v packs only. So I went to 4.8v packs, incase a 6v pack was damaging the ignitions. On the 4.8v packs I got two flights and started to have troubles. I did everything you guys are doing ( needle adjuments, plugs, carb cleaning, new fuel lines, clunks, etc ). The next flying season it would run fine again, two flights later the problem was back. Well the 4.8V pack was recharged the night before going flying. I traced it back to the battery, when ever the battery got to about 4.9v it started to act up. The lower the voltage went the worse the issues got. It would even get to the point it would not start and the would still be 4.7v - 4.8v on a meter. I put the 6V pack back on and never had a issue again.

[2robinhood]

I am only saying to regulate the 6V battery is for a some reason CRRC is saying only use a 4.8V battery.
I don't want anyone to burn-up an ignition.
But, I did run mine UNREGULATED and never had a problem and I put about ten gallons throught the engine.
The code on the bottom of THIS ignition was August 2007 , version 01.

[hardtop351]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rcign
	Ah, progress.. for 20 years we had igintions that ran for 2 hours on a 600ma 4.8V battery...NO problems, they just worked.. Now we have Lipos, hydrides, A123s etc.... Special chargers, regulators etc.... Ignitions with leds, cutoff features, automatic chokes, etc..... When you people get tired of screwing around with all these high dollar special ignitions and want something the works all the time, takes no special chargers, and is relatively cheap, you know where to find them....AND they're guaranteed...RC ignition.com and C&H...We both have been around for over 20 years, longer than some of you "newbies" have been flying....We started with mechanical advance ignition, later when the technology came about, had electronic control...You need NOTHING else in an ignition.. Something to be said for the K I S S principle...

here here buddy!!!!!

i TOTALLY agree with you on this!!!!
bring back the old exposed points and coil setups.....simple....effective....and they WORKED!!!!!

my 26 will be getting my mods to make it work....will keep you posted

cheers
craig

[hardtop351]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Noddy
	Your first solution to the interference problem seems a little extreme, doesn't that take away the point of using petrol for economy , but as you say that's another story for another time. I have posted about interference myself. I was using PCM and had horrendous problems in as much that all was well with the engine off but as soon as I started it the control surfaces went whappy. My final solution was to switch to 2.4 gig Spektrum and what do you know, 100% reliability. Since the swap over I have not had so much as a twitch, all my problems have vanished. Could it be that the RF noise from the CDI isn't strong enough to swamp the 2.4 signal ?

who cares about economy????
it seems that ever since large spark ignition engines became popular it seems that nothing else is as good as them.
i modded my engine purely as a simple and inexpensive way of getting the results i was looking for.
my 26 will be going the same way.

yes i know there are reliable ignitions out there as rcign has pointed out. yes i know they aren't THAT expensive........but i like being that little bit different.

just so you all know.....my 45 uses about 1/2 a 16oz tank of fuel for a 15min flight....and most of the flight is at full noise.....with the smoke on too!!!!

cheers
craig

[3Dguy]

I burn 4 oz/15 mins for an average 3D flight with my 26.

[downwind]

Carb install: I was wondering if i could turn the carb 180 degrees to put the carb adjustment knobs at the bottom?????? engine cylinder is pointed down.

I did run the engine on a test stand with the cylinder facing upward and the carb adjustment knobs facing down.

All the pics i see here have the carb adjutment knobs facing up

[joseae]

Why not just run the engine inverted on the test stand?

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by downwind
	Carb install: I was wondering if i could turn the carb 180 degrees to put the carb adjustment knobs at the bottom?????? engine cylinder is pointed down. I did run the engine on a test stand with the cylinder facing upward and the carb adjustment knobs facing down. All the pics i see here have the carb adjutment knobs facing up

no ! do not turn the carb on th 26 around. the pulse port for the fuel pump will become blocked. if you take the carb off you will see an elongated hole in the manifold. this aligns with a hole on the carb.

[rcign]

In case you didn't see the reply on RCU, you CAN rotate the carb if you make a new pulse passage and rotate the gasket as well.....It would be a good idea to fill the old part of the passage with JB Weld to eliminate any leak......

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rcign
	In case you didn't see the reply on RCU, you CAN rotate the carb if you make a new pulse passage and rotate the gasket as well.....It would be a good idea to fill the old part of the passage with JB Weld to eliminate any leak......

look hes grumpy now lol. i wish i was half s smart as him. i hve learned more in rc stuff by going to his user name and reading his threads and posts. some are nothing i am intrested in but most have helped like a college professor. thanks rcign !

[FLZman]

Yep, Ralph knows his stuff. He has both my crrc's 26's right now trying to make them "runable". Last I heard, he was still in a wrestling match with them but if anyone can make them run he can.

Z