Gas header teflon coupler spacer?

[Windecker]

Hey guys, I saw a discussion about someone selling teflon spacers that you put in the header coupler between the header and can to keep them from touching one another. I can't locate either the discussion or the people selling them. Any idea where they are? Using DA150, MTW header, Greeve pipes.
Thanks
Will B.

[GremlinX]

You push the header in, then the can in, but do not let them touch. Banging and rattling metal causes interference...

[Windecker]

Thanks, yea I know. The little spacer will prevent them from being able to touch should the pipes move around a little. Normally not much of a problem but with the Greeve install, they move up to 3/4 inch from cold to hot. That's a bunch! Just looking for that added protection.
Thanks
Will B.

[plaster93]

Biff had a good idea in an earlier post, just put a small screw in the hole on the clamp, on the header and the can.That will keep it from sliding back. Also run the engine up to temp, let cool, do this 3-4 times and seat the coupler.

[jaguar bone]

Comp's and Can's


Canister mounting problem

[Windecker]

I don't see them in that thread, did I overlook them?
Thanks
Will B.

[jaguar bone]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Windecker
	I don't see them in that thread, did I overlook them? Thanks Will B.

Comp's and Can's
post #20

Other link was just more can discussion.

[BDSBob]

I think that you are going to have to allow for the heat expansion. Otherwise you may break the mounts that hold the rear of the pipes to the fuse.

I have a set of Greves pipes that are mounted but have yet to be tested due to the weather up in NY.

I have approximately 1" of distance, under the coupler, between the pipes inlet and header outlets.

My main concern was to keep the pipes from popping off due to the pressure pulses.

I had a thread on installing Greves pipes in a H9 Ultimate. Our FlyingGiants member "Toro" had a suggestion to use a small screw under the coupler to prevent the pipes and headers from sliding apart. Below is a description of how I went about Toro's method:

I drilled holes 180 degress apart on the ends of each header and pipe. I then installed a small button head screw directly onto the pipe. You can also use a small rivet. Then slide on a clamp, heat up the coupler with a heat gun, slide the coupler over the pipe or header then put the clamp on. This prevents the header or pipe from sliding apart. It also allows for the pipe to expand foward when it heats up.

I I have also attached the instructions for the rear pipe mounts. The instructions clearly show that the mounts should be installed very close to the ends of the pipes.

I also included a pic of my rear mounts and adjustment plate. The plate will be used to adjust the pipes back and forth if needed for tuning.

Oh yeah, my headers are cut down to 9.75 inches, and I am leaving 1" between the headers and pipes.

Good luck! I will need it as well as this is all untested for me!

[Radioactive]

Will B, don here...Fred Lumb, custom couplers with the spacer machine'd in them.. first class, mention don, and stephen, and tell him you're a team futaba pilot..email me off list for his number if you need it.flyinghamiltons@adelphia.net

[Windecker]

BDSBob,
Thanks for the hints, great job and nice idea. I have set up my rear mounts to "slip" so the cans grow aft, not forward, much like the MTW mounts DA sells. I am planning on installing the screw in the header also but "things happen" so I want to be sure they can't touch. Thanks for the help.

Don, look for PM.
Thanks a bunch all!
Will B.

[Windecker]

Fred has them, great guy, thanks!
Will