RCATS Ignition cutoff

[Izzy]

Hey all, I was wondering if any of you have used the RCATS ignition cutoff on your gas engine. I had mine installed on a DA 50 and was getting MAD interference from it. The switch itself was mounted pretty close to the ignition battery and module, so I'm going to try to lengthen the cables to separate the switch from the ignition to see if that works. Has anyone had any experience with this? It surprises me, since it's supposed to isolate the ignition from the end that goes into the Rx. Any info greatly appreciated.

Izzy

[budgetdude]

Is it the R100 or the optical.

[Izzy]

the R100

[budgetdude]

A buddy and myself have used that switch with the DA 50-100 with no issues. Are you getting rf interference and or a lock out. As far as I know it doesnt isolate anything with rf. It just acts as a kill switch. I think I wired mine to the switch between it and the regulator. Where is yours wired?

[mluvara]

Hi Izzy,

If you are having any issues, call me at the office and I can see what we can do to help. We have had very few, if any reports of problems. I use the rc-100 on many of my own models from magnetos to electronic ignition kills without a problem.

While the switch does not directly pass signals through itself to the receiver, any wire acts as an antenna and can pick up noise from other devices or close wires.

Michael Luvara
RCATS
408-830-0745

[Izzy]

Hey guys, thanks for the quick reply. Thanks for the offer Michael. What i believe is giving me trouble is having the RCATS too close (about 1 inch) to the ignition module and battery. I'm guessing that being that close is transmitting RF back to the receiver. I don't get lock outs, just mad interference. What i'm going to do today is lengthen the wires that go from the RCATS to the battery and ignition, so that I can place the RCATS much farther away from that area. I'm confident it will work, since it makes sense that that's the problem. I'll try that and give you a call if it doesn't work. By the way, I have it connected directly to the Rx--I don't have an extra switch. Should i get another switch? If so, does it also have to be isolated from the rest of the equipment, or not (since the switch wouldn't be directly connected to either the RX batt or the ignition module)

Thanks again,

Izzy

[budgetdude]

Having a external switch just gives you or your helper a way to kill the engine from outside the airplane. It also gives you a charge jack to check voltage or charge through. Its also a convienant place to plug in the battery and if put your kill switch on it, it will put distance between it and the ignition.

[mluvara]

Ok. What could be happening is that the servo lead coming from the unit to the receiver might be picking up noise. If the electronic ignition happens to be noisy or have some leakage, any leads up there might pick up the noise and run it back to your receiver. It's more likely the proximity of the rc-100 itself to the electronic ignition module than being close to the battery. Sometimes there is a leaky plug cap, wiring,etc. Basically, the RC-100 is a relay with a microprocessor that looks at the commanded pulse that the receiver is giving it. The microprocessor relay essentially isolates the leads.

As far as switches go, there should be no switch between the receiver and the electronic switch. All this does is kill power to the RC-100. You should still have a switch between the electronic ignition and the battery powering it. Since the switches are in series, either one will remove power to the electronic ignition.

What I like to do is wire up a switch with male and female servo leads. This way the switch goes in line with your manual switch and can be removed easily. See attached. Basically, you can take a servo extension and cut one of the leads (positive, typically). Then wire each one of the leads on the extension to one side of the servo extension. This is a path that the switch will open or close.

We do have a fiberoptic version of the switch, but sell the rc-100 series 100:1 to the fiberoptic.

Also, there's a FAQ that talks a little bit about EMI and such relating to the swich: http://www.rcatsystems.com/pdf/RCATS...witchesFAQ.pdf

Michael

[Izzy]

Bah, I'm a freakin' genius. I should have come in here and see if you'd replied. I just burned up two switches in the last ten minutes -.- I had it between the switch and batt and tried to charge the batt. I though i had messed the first one up earlier so i hooked up the second one and saw it burn out. What you did makes sense, and i'm not sure why I hadn't though about that lol. In any case, I'd love to get my hands on one of these. can we get repairs, or do I have to place another order?

Thanks to both of you, by the way, for the quick replies and the good info!

Izzy

[budgetdude]

That sucks man. If you are talking about the kill switch I have a used one I will give you if you will happen to be at the wharehouse (excuse me Sky Hobbies) any time tomorrow or thursday afternoon.

[Izzy]

at hobby warehouse (did they change the name to sky hobbies?) tomorrow? I'll buy it from you if you have a spare one for sure! or i could trade it: i have a couple of NIB airwild 1.25" alum. servo arms that I won't be using any time soon, a DA carb CF plate and a whole bunch of other NIB stuff. I'll bring some and you can pick out or if you want cash that's fine too. what time will you be there tomorrow and thursday?

Izzy
612 205 2597

[Izzy]

arms are for JR