3W 106 no plenty of power

[freeflyer]

Yes i understand, the best way is to sent it to 3W.
But it disturb me to paid for that (the check will be expansive i think) because my plane fly well with this engine, it's not diffuclt to remove the hub so i can see if the KEY is broken or not.
I'm not sur they will find anything (excepted this KEY but i can do myself no?) and i don't know 3W service reputation in europ.

[DesertHucker]

	Quote: Originally Posted by freeflyer
	Yes i understand, the best way is to sent it to 3W. But it disturb me to paid for that (the check will be expansive i think) because my plane fly well with this engine, it's not diffuclt to remove the hub so i can see if the KEY is broken or not. I'm not sur they will find anything (excepted this KEY but i can do myself no?) and i don't know 3W service reputation in europ.

You will need to make a tool to bolt to the hub to remove the prop hub nut.
Dont grip it with a tool on the hub.
Do you have a dial indecator?
You will need one to check the shaft.
If the key is broken the crank wil be bent or twisted in the webbing.

3W service is the best to fix it.

If you do it yourself and 6 months later the cank casing cracks please dont complain about 3W not been good.

[Ernie]

	Quote: Originally Posted by freeflyer
	Yes i understand, the best way is to sent it to 3W. But it disturb me to paid for that (the check will be expansive i think) because my plane fly well with this engine, it's not diffuclt to remove the hub so i can see if the KEY is broken or not. I'm not sur they will find anything (excepted this KEY but i can do myself no?) and i don't know 3W service reputation in europ.

Freeflyer
The advice given to you is the best road to take send it to 3w
To check iff you have a broken key there is a mark on the hub and the crankcase
lined up gives TDC top dead centre
rock the prophub either side of TDC iff the distance is the same either side the key aint broken
iff the distance more one way than the other you could have a broken key or your
crankshaft is out of alignment by a fair distance 2 to 3mm
Take the advice given and have it checked
EE

[freeflyer]

i manage to remove the hub nut by making 2 tools : one key to spin it and one "home reworked" prop to block the hub.
But the hub seem to be locked on the cranksaft i didn't manage to slide it after removing the nut.

When the mark on the hub and the crankcase are lined up it seem to be at top dead center but not easy to be sur (you make -/+ 5° your still think to be at top dead center)

I've seen another probleme : my hall sensor want to go away.... so it's possible it is the alone actor of the problem , so how to set the hall sensor?
-by displacing it slowly at full trottle?
-or mm by mm before starting the engine?

[freeflyer]

What is dial indecator please?
i want to know if i don't make any mistake on the parts that we are speaking about.


http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9281/3wkeywayrv2.jpg

And : http://img503.imageshack.us/my.php?i...keyway2sg3.jpg

[freeflyer]

What is dial indecator please?
i want to know if i don't make any mistake on the parts that we are speaking about.

I don't known how to remove the HUB : i've tried to pull it but it seems to be locked



And



http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/1...keyway2sg3.jpg

excuse me for double post it's a mistake

[Ernie]

	Quote: Originally Posted by freeflyer
	What is dial indecator please? i want to know if i don't make any mistake on the parts that we are speaking about. I don't known how to remove the HUB : i've tried to pull it but it seems to be locked And http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/1...keyway2sg3.jpg excuse me for double post it's a mistake

Apply pull on the hub get a heat gun warm up the hub be sure to stay away from the magnet when warming hub
then apply more pull it should pop off
on the hub have you got 1 or 2 magnets ?
Looking from the front the red magnet should be 3/4 under the censor on the right hand side

[freeflyer]

i have 2 magnets : one green the other is red, i've tried the heat gun but a little because i was lazy to remove the hall sensor, this engine is still under warranty but i think the warranty don't cover that damage (and i run with bel ray oil not 3W).

"Ernie" i have to check if my red magnet is like that when the marks on the crankcase and the hub are lined up?

[blaze]

You all did a great job showing and telling this guy what to do. I beleive you are some specialists of the 3W 106B2 engine. Bobby would have said the same thing. at least I think he would have. He has some good thoughts and we have Harleys in common! I have a couple of questions for ya' Can any of you show me where there is a expanded view of the carb for the 106B2? Mine is not running smooth and doesn't always return to the same idle. That can be a real bitch on landings when it just is too fast or the next time too low and engine chokes and dies! I just can't get a dependable idle! How 'bout a little help...please? I really could use it. I had a Harley shop and am a master machinist by trade but now unemployable because of an accident at work and now 20 some surgeries and a couple pounds of titanium rods, cages and screws 3" long, the doctors are really into the practicing way with my spine. I'm lucky I can still walk.....with a cane....and not very far at a time. I'm basically crippled for now. I do thank God every day that I'm still alive. If I were a horse I would of been shot a long time ago! Can't even do my ride! This is where the crying comes in. This is the only thing that can get my rocks off like riding my Harley and that is flying my RC Planes. This plane I'm building at the moment is a now 100cc size QB AW Yak 54, it is a nice and very nice hardware, SAE kit...... but the 75cc kit I built came in heavy but the 95cc Brison might have something to do with it. I've been told the 75cc kit has been coming in this way even with the 85cc 3W and that is a suggested engine for the build. I was only 2lbs over and I sure hope the 100cc build comes in under or at least on. Well I better let you reply, I don't have much else to do but BS...Thanks in advance guys.

[DesertHucker]

	Quote: Originally Posted by blaze
	You all did a great job showing and telling this guy what to do. I beleive you are some specialists of the 3W 106B2 engine. Bobby would have said the same thing. at least I think he would have. He has some good thoughts and we have Harleys in common! I have a couple of questions for ya' Can any of you show me where there is a expanded view of the carb for the 106B2? Mine is not running smooth and doesn't always return to the same idle. That can be a real bitch on landings when it just is too fast or the next time too low and engine chokes and dies! I just can't get a dependable idle! How 'bout a little help...please? I really could use it. I had a Harley shop and am a master machinist by trade but now unemployable because of an accident at work and now 20 some surgeries and a couple pounds of titanium rods, cages and screws 3" long, the doctors are really into the practicing way with my spine. I'm lucky I can still walk.....with a cane....and not very far at a time. I'm basically crippled for now. I do thank God every day that I'm still alive. If I were a horse I would of been shot a long time ago! Can't even do my ride! This is where the crying comes in. This is the only thing that can get my rocks off like riding my Harley and that is flying my RC Planes. This plane I'm building at the moment is a now 100cc size QB AW Yak 54, it is a nice and very nice hardware, SAE kit...... but the 75cc kit I built came in heavy but the 95cc Brison might have something to do with it. I've been told the 75cc kit has been coming in this way even with the 85cc 3W and that is a suggested engine for the build. I was only 2lbs over and I sure hope the 100cc build comes in under or at least on. Well I better let you reply, I don't have much else to do but BS...Thanks in advance guys.

Blaze,
What throttle servo you using?

I found a good digital servo works best, returns to the same position precicely.

Some analog servos don't always return to the exact same spot.

How long is the throttle arm on the carb?

I have about 30mm get good resolution and more precise.

The other thing is tuning if it is rich on landing it will hold high idle until the airspeed drops.
But your problem sounds more like a servo or linkage issue.

Ernie is the master when it comes to 3W in Australia.

[freeflyer]

yes it may be your throttle servo or your linkage isn't smooth.

[Ernie]

	Quote: Originally Posted by freeflyer
	i have 2 magnets : one green the other is red, i've tried the heat gun but a little because i was lazy to remove the hall sensor, this engine is still under warranty but i think the warranty don't cover that damage (and i run with bel ray oil not 3W). "Ernie" i have to check if my red magnet is like that when the marks on the crankcase and the hub are lined up?

Looking at the picture i'm suprised it runs at all your timing is way out
You will have the engine looked at our hve someone help you
you have a sheared key and the crank is out of ballance
our the crank is out of ballance and needs to be reballanced
to check the crank undo all crankcase bolts or loosen them turn the crank and it will
show you how far it is out needs to be fixed or you will damage you engine more and more if you keep running it
The best fix send it to 3w to be repaired
Correct warranty does'nt cover propstrikes etc

The red magnet should be 3/4 under the censor on the right at TDC
hope this helps
regrds
EE