DA85 on pipe! Results please.

[dick hanson]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dbcaster
	O.k. here are some pics of the beginning of the install of the KS 1090 in the Jtec Extra. It actually fits quite well and will only take a little bit of patch work. One question, how critical is it to have the mount on the seem of the pipe? You can see mine if mounted on the former is behind the seem. I really like the mount were it is since it re-connects the former. Also, I will need to come up with some sort of mount on the front.

Nice setup--
Having used a number of KS pipes - they are fragile - -just a fact -
You will likely dent the pipe with your setup.
also you MUST restrain the pipe from slipping aft -the internal pressure wants to blow it off and in many cases -it will
clamp at the front and every joint!!and if possible put a restraining device in place. A good one is a very rough section where the pipe attaches to the header -then use a very strong spring clamp - these will bite hard into the teflon . I also prefer to use a stop at the end of the pipe - a small wood/silicone setup (like you used to support the pipe) but simply designed to hold it from moving aft Up front make a silicone rubber padded support that applies NO pressure up down or sideways on the header/pipe joint - this is important. You can loosen or break the header or couplers.
Very high exhaust temps can gradually cause the pipe to slip aft - and it will slip off at the worst possible moment . so check this part out thoroughly.
to recap - the engine and pipe should never be forced into a position -the header can be tweaked to get exact alignment --then-- lock the pipe into that position. The couplers will do the rest if the header is a flex center type.
My 80 ZDZ's are similar setups and I made a number of mistakes before I found out that you have to get alignments perfect ---- then--- lock the pipe in position.
It'sall worth doint -once you match the prop load to your pipe setup - that takes a little listening and needle adjusting - just don't be afraid to experiment a bit . and DO NOT get it into mind that some particular prop is "best" --just use one which matches your pipe setup.

[dbcaster]

Thanks Dick and Trev,
I am just at the point of putting all the pieces together and mocking it up so I have not put the clamps on the coupling yet. I have actually seen the cans come off a buddies plane in flight so I will put the stopper on the back. After I posted the pics I figured out a way to put the mount on the seam so I will do that. The pipe does fit nice and I only have one real issue. The only way I can get the pipe in the fuse is with the mount loose. Once it is in I will need to glue the mount in and build the box around it. The main problem with that is, I won't be able to get it out without taring everything apart. I am not sure if I will need to take it out so this may not be an issue.

[dick hanson]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dbcaster
	Thanks Dick and Trev, I am just at the point of putting all the pieces together and mocking it up so I have not put the clamps on the coupling yet. I have actually seen the cans come off a buddies plane in flight so I will put the stopper on the back. After I posted the pics I figured out a way to put the mount on the seam so I will do that. The pipe does fit nice and I only have one real issue. The only way I can get the pipe in the fuse is with the mount loose. Once it is in I will need to glue the mount in and build the box around it. The main problem with that is, I won't be able to get it out without taring everything apart. I am not sure if I will need to take it out so this may not be an issue.

Make a removable mount -- If you do -you will never need it
If you don't, you will need it and under worst possible circumstances. Dick M(Murphy) Hanson

[dbcaster]

Dick,
Sound words of advice

[Henna_Ojisan]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dick hanson
	Very high exhaust temps can gradually cause the pipe to slip aft - and it will slip off .

I'll second Dick here on that - had my pipe came off on the first flight and WOW - it was LOUD!!! Open header and mess... I used a single stainless screw into the header through the coupler inside the spring clip. The pipe side is good, just the header side came loose...

[sprice50]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Henna_Ojisan
	I'll second Dick here on that - had my pipe came off on the first flight and WOW - it was LOUD!!! Open header and mess... I used a single stainless screw into the header through the coupler inside the spring clip. The pipe side is good, just the header side came loose...

I made sure I slid the coupler over the bump at the end of the header - enough that the clamp is completely on the engine side of the bump. Also for some reason the header clamp was extremely small and hard to get on which I suppose is a great thing but it was insane to get on. The clamp on the pipe side was tight to get on but not as bad.

db - glad you are going to use the comfort mount at the seam. Supporting at the CG will reduce the load on the header. Also the comfort mount allows the pipe to expand backwards a little (the rubber will just bend backwards) and the system is isolated from the frame.

I wouldn't build a pipe tunnel. There is no need. For my pipe I left 50% of the cannister inlet in the fuse open and made the pipe exit about 140% of that to allow for hot air exiting. I just put a little covering right over the bottom of the trays so that direct heat did not hit the electronics. I have placed my hand within 5mm of the pipe on landing and it is not hot at all.

My system would have been removable if I had made the rear brace (one below the exit lip see pg 17 pic 4 DA85 on pipe! Results please.) removable. The easiest thing to do would be to make a hatch from just above the comfort mount to the exit including the lip. Just remove hatch, loosen from mount and header and you're done. I thought about it, but went flying instead

Save yourself time tightening the mount (first pic DA85 on pipe! Results please.) Make sure you use the pliers right below the standoff as this is where the washer is inside the rubber.

Another thing... Prime the engine now if you can. After battling to get mine to draw fuel first day at the field I just took out the spark plug and spun the prop while blowing on the tank vent line. Never needed to since, but will always get the engine drawing fuel before the first trip out.

[dbcaster]

Here is a pic of the final install in the Jtec 300. I have a mount up front just behind the coupling and I added a stopper at the back of the pipe.

[Henna_Ojisan]

Looks nice and clean - looking forward to hearing your flight report!

[sprice50]

db - looks excellent.... it will be awesome. Are you going to put some covering or leave the pipe exposed? I would place a bet on 1 turn low needle, 1.5 turn high and 6400-6450rpm first run on a 28x10 Mej.

Just a matter of time until everyone runs this setup

[dbcaster]

Thanks Sprice,
I plan on leaving the pipe exposed at this point. Those needle settings are pretty much where my last 85 was so it should be close.

[sprice50]

The pipe doesn't get very hot, so I covered mine as I think it would be aerodynamically better. But with that power it may as well be a bus... it would still do upline snaps.

[khedge]

I wonder if the 85 will turn a 29*10 still it is ripping the 28*10 mej