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| Gas Engines and Power Discuss all aspects of giant scale power systems |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 18
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Hi, do any of you have any insight if there is a right or wrong way to drill a prop? I already made one mistake and used the wrong holes on my drill jig. I also used the right ones. Is this prop junk now because of structural integrity? Any tips will be appreciated. Thanks
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Low and Slow Baby!! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Glyndon, Minnesota Age: 39
Posts: 615
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I probably wouldn't use it. It might be ok but why chance it for safety reasons. The main thing I know about drilling props is you want to drill from the back side through to the front. And then just like any thing else you drill let the drill do the work don't force the bit through let it go through on its own. And oh yeah use a drill press so that you know you drill it straight.
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| BYE BYE BOU ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Townsville, NTH QLD, Australia
Posts: 4,694
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Also drop the bolts through the jig and the prop as you go. This will help stop the jig moving while you are drilling.
__________________ It's hard to soar like an eagle when you are surrounded by turkeys.. ![]() www.extraaircraft.com www.scaleaeros.com.au www.desertaircraft.com.au www.theprofilebrotherhood.com www.booma-rc.com |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Super Contributer ![]() Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Beaumont Texas Age: 41
Posts: 143
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Lay a piece of hardwood on the table of your press so that when the bit passes through the prop it will not rip the exit hole up. Also on the prop with both patterns now, you can take some dowl pin the same diameter as the extra set of holes you drilled and cut them to length and glue them in with wood glue and use the prop as usual, never had a problem with them.. Rick |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Oilsands ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 749
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I would check with the manufactor about using the prop, they should know whether you can use it safely or not (that is if you are looking at using it).
__________________ Anthony MAAC#78933 IMAC#5720 36% PAU Edge 540 37% PAU Ultimate Carf 2.6m Yak 55sp PAU mini Yak |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,009
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I have a piece of wood on the back so the prop won't break out and I clamp the jig, prop, & wood to the table. as I drill each hole I put a drill the same size I'm using through the jig and hole upside down. The shank of the drill will be the size of the hole you just drilled, most of the time the bolts are smaller than the hole and some movement could happen. When I finish drilling the prop I remove the jig and then re-drill the holes with a drill about about 3 or 4 number sizes larger, usually about .012" -.015". I then hit each side with a countersink to make about a 1/32 champer to finish the holes.
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| George ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Hodgenville, KY Age: 52
Posts: 611
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1. Use a jig. 2. Use a drill press. 3. Pin the holes as you go to keep the prop from slipping. 4. Drill from the back. Check to make sure prop will be at 2 o'clock position. 5. Put a piece of scrap wood under the prop to keep it neat. 6. Drill slowly, less chance of the prop slipping or trying to run on you as you drill. 7. I balance the prop after drilling. Last edited by DR10044; 06-27-2008 at 11:05 AM. |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| That Was a Close Shave! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: USA
Posts: 641
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I once came upon a discussion about drilling props that said to put 2 opposing holes at 3 and 9 O'Clock, in line with the center hole. The thinking was that there were no continuous structural elements in this region since they had already been severed by the center hole. This way, there are some uninterrupted lengths of prop at the hub just above and below the center hole. If you put opposing holes at 6 and 12 O'Clock, then those holes along with the adjacent 2 holes and the center hole interrupt the continuity of the prop material throughout the entire hub region. Whether or not this theory has any merit, I can't say, just food for thought and discussion.
__________________ You're a Notch And I'm a Legend TEAM Drunk, Broke, and Stupid! |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Port Orchard, WA Age: 59
Posts: 4,804
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__________________ Primadonna #2, I Try Harder!! Al Lewis AMA #821623 http://www.southeastrcengines.com Remember every second of every day there are thousands of men and women giving of their lives to keep you safe. Never forget them for they never forget you!! |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Shut up and Fly! ![]() Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Texas
Posts: 389
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Sometimes you have to clock the holes at a certain orientation to clear the mounting tabs on a spinner base plate. These are more common on the carbon fiber spinners. Spinners with center bolts are not a problem.
__________________ Jim in Dallas |
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| | #11 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Vicksburg, MS Age: 62
Posts: 825
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This is perfect for the outer holes (i.e. DA 3W 150). The inner holes (DA 100 3W 106) should be rotated such that the top two holes are parallel to the centerline of the prop (as in the outer holes shown in the photo). After drilling the holes as above be careful to install the prop such that as the prop rotates the pistons come up on compression when at the 2 o'clock position. Works perfect every time. Bobby aka TDD | ||||||||||||||||||
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Canada
Posts: 2,166
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The drill jig I fabricate for the Evo engines have a small 10 mm peace sticking out that fits into the prop, from the other side, I bolt a 1/4*20 screw tightly so the jig doesn't move, then you can drill safely with a hand drill ... Always, always rebalance the prop after drilling or doing anything to the prop. Roger
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