Tuned Pipes in a 35% Dalton 260

[ben_beyer]

I'm building a Dalton Aviation 35% Extra 260. My planned power set up is a BME 115 on ES Composites tuned pipes. There's a thread on putting the pipes in the 42% 260 here on FG, but I haven't heard any real talk about doing this in the 35% version.

The first picture shows the picture of the crossbracing from the manual and I've installed that. However, my pipes aren't going to fit under the cross brascing I've installed. In the 42% version that has pipes, you can see in the picture that the bottom cross brascing has been omitted.

So my question is if I should go ahead and remove the crossbracing on the bottom where the pipes will run so I can install them or just run them on top of it?

I figure this is useful information in case someone decides to put their DA 100 or whatever engine they decide to run on pipes.

I'd also like to thank Steve Hannah for sending me the pictures of the inside of his plane.

[Neogenesis]

Call Tony......I'm sure he would steer you in the right direction.



Neo

[ben_beyer]

I'm hoping that he'll see this and chime in. That way other people can have access to the information. If he doesn't, I'll call and post what he says.

[Bunky F. Knuckle]

Knock your cross bracing out. The pipes should extend back past the canopy area. Atleast the KS 1060's did in my friends CA Y-55. Razr remembers that Yak. It was SICK powerful!!!

If you do not have the pipes yet, please wait on cutting stuff out. There are several other things that you can do to the airframe while waiting for pipes. Sheet wings, stabs, and vertical.

But yes, the bracing will have to come out, and a tunnel will have to be made for the pipes to lie in. Once you lay the pipes in, you can do 1 of 2 things. Make frame work for the pipes. I used this method once for canisters, and worked well. I used 3/8" SQ spruce under the pipes to lie on, and then ran a piece on top, remembering to leave a bit of room for rubber grommets. Then I ran a piece or each side of the can. Leaving room for the rubber grommets again. This way, I had good airflow over and around my cannisters in my 35% Extra. I removed the cans for a competition, and never put them back in. I have them sitting in my shop back at my other residence. Or other way you can do it is to get a piece of 1/8" ply, and cut 2 holes in it for the pipes to ride in, again leaving room for the rubber grommets. And then hollow out all around the mount for your pipes. I have previously used the 3W can mounts, and had good success, but started to break headers in my Extra. I guess I didn't have the mount in the right spot, orthe can was too high or low. They have to be PLUMB parallel to the fuse. But if you run FLEX headers, you shouldn't have a problem with breaking headers.

I wish I had taken pics of the set up, was pretty nice. You can get as elaborate with the set up as you want. I prefer the KISS method!! Keep It Simple, Stoopid!!!

Chris~

[ben_beyer]

Cool, thanks. I'm planning on using flex headers and I have some mounts I bought from DA. The pipes are carbon fiber so I won't need to build an elaborate pipe tunnel. The CF deflects the head instead of absorbing it like aluminum. Apparently, you can almost grab them while the engine is running. Anyways, I just basically planned on putting something in behind where the pipes exit to deflect air out.

I'm building this plane at my parents house so it's going to be March before I can touch it again and then it will be mostly preparing sheeting for the foam. I'm also planning on ordering the pipes so I can see and think about preparations for installing them.

[Highlights]

Whats the take on making tunnels for tuned pipes, or cannisters for that matter. I heard of guys ommiting the tunnels as they say it can be a waste of time. Circulation is fine without them.
??????????

[WOODisGOOD]

While many have left there exhaust exposed I think its best to build a tunnel to route the air intake out of the fuselage. I have seen canopys and even fuselage side sheeting blow off because of the presure inside.
Remove whatever cross bracing that is needed to install the pipes and then build a tunnel over the pipes. You can make the tunnel out of 1/16 light balsa and make the frame work out of 1/4 square balsa. The tunnel will take the place of the cross bracing and help to keep the fuselage from twisting. I think there are some pics of how I did it in the thread for the Don lowe Masters plane. I will look for the thread and post a link here.

[WOODisGOOD]

Joe Nall 06 Raffle plane

[ben_beyer]

Thanks Tony!

[shannah]

I basically integrated the pipe tunnel into the fuse. If you look at the pics, I have an enclosed area around the pipe exhaust that diverts the air out the exit holes. It's basically the back end of a pipe tunnel. I have the bottom of the canopy deck sheeted. It seems to work nicely, at least so far.

[Temptation]

Ben, I am real interested in hearing about what you think of the ES pipes after you fly the plane with them. I really like them in my pattern planes. I am thinking about running them in my next 40% project.

Mike Darr

[Flyinrazrback]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Temptation
	Ben, I am real interested in hearing about what you think of the ES pipes after you fly the plane with them. I really like them in my pattern planes. I am thinking about running them in my next 40% project. Mike Darr

I also have a set of the pipes I am about to run on my 115, unfortunatley there are no planes for 150cc pipes anytime soon.