n00bs Gonna Build a Carden

[gareth.ky]

	Quote: Originally Posted by OnTheEdge
	Gareth, sounds like you don't have the hinges in yet. If that's the case, you might want to consider making the rudder removable. It will help it fit in the Subaru and at the very least, help you see out the passenger side mirror. (Not a bad thing on a long drive to a contest or funfly.) I did it to my Yak so I would fit in it the back of a pickup. Very easy to do takes only about an extra five minutes to assemble at the field. If you need idea about how to do it, let me know. Pretty straight forward. ...........Mark

The hinges wont be glued in until after the covering goes on. All the slots will be cut at this stage before the bevel material goes on the airplane.

I'm using the Dubro Heavy Duty hinges so I can put a wire in the tail if need be. Once its all done and I can test fit it in the car and make a call on how to hinge the rudder. Those hinges make it easy to put a wire through.

I'm planning ahead

[Bruce]

Gareth - good job on the thread and the plane.

In the event that you haven't come across it,
Robart also makes a hinge point without the metal rivet
to provide for a removeable hinge wire.

[Johnny MoJo]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Bruce
	Gareth - good job on the thread and the plane. In the event that you haven't come across it, Robart also makes a hinge point without the metal rivet to provide for a removeable hinge wire.

Bruce,

Can you post a link to these or a pic? I would be interested in seeing how the wire would go through these points and fasten.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

J.

[Bruce]

J
The Robart part numbers are 321 (1/8") and 322 (3/16). There is a picture on their
web site - just go to the site and click on hinges. Think you can get them from the
mail order houses, eg, Tower....

[Johnny MoJo]

Thanks Bruce! I'll check it out.

J.

[gareth.ky]

New photos up on Flickr. Some of them have notes, just wave the mouse over the image.

All the surfaces are cut out now. I'm taking my sweet time with this step because I only get 1 shot at it. I've only been flying 2 years but I've learned; Good flying airplanes are straight and have precise control surfaces.

[brandonduley]

looks great keep up the good work.

[gareth.ky]

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

Beveling the hinges is something I messed around with before I started building the kit. I got some wood from the hobby shop and did some trial runs. I wasn't going to have the money for a band saw so I had to find a way to do it accurately by hand. The first few tries didn't go very well.

The big problem with most of the wood is that its curved. Say for example it bulges up from the table in the middle. When you sand something like that you will sand more material from the middle than the ends. So you get this hinge thats not straight and comes away from the hinge line in the middle. The fix for this is pretty simple. I stick the parts down to a flat surface with 3M Spray Mount Adhesive. They don't move around so its easier to work on them and they wont get sanded out of true. When you need to get the part up off the table it can be popped off with a Bondo Scraper.

If you have a band saw none of this is really necessary and you can do this step in an hour. As it is each one of these probably takes me 1/2 an hour to razor plane and sand. I think the results are at least as good as the band saw though.

I made up some template in Sketchup to get the angles right for each bevel. 35 degrees on the ailerons, 50 on elevators and 55 on the Rudder. Because of the slight gap at the hinge line I will probably get slightly more throw than that. Here you can see the template is being used to mark the place where the bevel line crosses the side of the hinge material.

At the aileron root I started with a line that was perpendicular to the hinge line. I measured 1/2" towards the wing root from there and drew the final line. It looks better than perpendicular but I'll have to check for binding when I set up the hinges. Ailerons also extend 1 inch further towards the wing root than spec. You know... for torque rollin'

I'm taking Walt's advice on reinforcing the rudder with some 1/8" hard balsa set 1 1/4" back into the surface. Did the same thing at the wing root too. Glued with Poly.

[gareth.ky]

Oh man, this step just wont end. I just finished gluing the wing trailing edge stock in place. I didn't it bevel it either, it was too crooked to do on the bench.

Hopefully tomorrow I will get all the flight surfaces leading edge glued in place. I'm doing them last because they need to be positioned for clearances and thats hard do without the other edge glued in place. I'm also thinking about putting in the control horns in that step. It may be better do them after everything is set up though.

Right now its 2/3am (DST change over!) and I'm beat.

[Neil4]

I don't know if you talked about this in your desription but when cutting the aileron out, isn't the first cut closest to the wing root supposed to be parallel to the wing root? In the picture it looks as if it is not parallel.

Neil

[gareth.ky]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Neil4
	I don't know if you talked about this in your description but when cutting the aileron out, isn't the first cut closest to the wing root supposed to be parallel to the wing root? In the picture it looks as if it is not parallel. Neil

Its not parallel. If it is parallel it may bind at full deflection. Look earlier in the thread, there was some discussion on this. The plans and the instructions do not make a recommendation either way.

[gareth.ky]

Gotta have something to show for an entire weekend worth of work, right?





Really this is the step without end. It's madness! the rudder is done too but needs to be sanded. The ailerons still need to be fitted, glued and beveled. So still at least 2 more evenings of work before its all done. I cant wait for it to be over so I can move on to something else for a change.