n00bs Gonna Build a Carden

[rcplanefan]

Gareth,

Great stuff here. I finally got the time to go all the way through your thread over the weekend. You give tons of thought to most of what you are doing and it shows. Your workmanship is also top-notch.

You are going to love the way this plane flies. Are you coming to the Nats this July? I would really like to see this plane in person.

Ken

[gareth.ky]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rcplanefan
	Gareth, Great stuff here. I finally got the time to go all the way through your thread over the weekend. You give tons of thought to most of what you are doing and it shows. Your workmanship is also top-notch. You are going to love the way this plane flies. Are you coming to the Nats this July? I would really like to see this plane in person. Ken

Thanks man. People like you and Walt that post these build threads help out a lot. My thread is probably way too tedious but I'm doing it for the newbies.

Not everything is straight or perfect on the airplane. Some things I have corrected and some I have just accepted as not worth the effort to fix. I should do a post showing everything that's messed up! You dont have to have a perfect airplane for it to fly well to look great.

I hope I can be at the NATS. I think the Oklahoma Crew wants to go as well.

[gareth.ky]

Spent most of the evening covered in Fiberglass dust Dremel makes some bad-ass tungsten carbide bits that can cut this stuff really easily. The cutoff wheels do a good job of rough cutting things to start with.

So close but not quite 'done' with the build yet!

Balance point with the motor, spinner, can, and the three servos on the tail is about 2" in front of the wing tube. So its going to be close to spot on with the wings on. I'll probably just have to put the batteries up near the firewall.

[gareth.ky]

Yea, still some things to do, control horns, ailerons need work, tank tray & so on. But basically its as done as its going to get before I start finishing it. Man this project has taken a lot longer than I though! Right now its time for a cool beverage and some Deadliest Catch.

I keep looking at it all put together and wondering "HOW did I build THAT!?"

[tommy321]

Congrats Dude! Been watching this from the start, and enjoyed all the detail you put into it... Two big for ya.

Grab a beverage and enjoy pushing that thing around the driveway making airplane noises! You've earned it!

Tom

[why_fly_high]

NICE! Now........................................COVER IT! I'll test fly it for you.

Dan

[gareth.ky]

Thanks for following along tommy321. I know its kind of a loooog thread.

Dan I want you down here when I'm setting up the fuel system and stuff like that. This weekend I'm all about getting some covering DUN.

I did some CAD work last night. I cant find a 5" wide double horn to use the rudder G10 horn that I got. So I get some G10 on the way from McMaster Carr. I'll be making a 4" horn. I'm thinking about doing a Comp-Arf style G10 servo arm. These screw on to a round plastic servo wheel. Anyone know if they work well?

[rcplanefan]

Gareth,

Are you doing a pull-pull arrangement on rudder? I'm assuming that is what the 4" horn will be for. If so, G10 should work fine in a double-truss arrangement. Not sure about using just a single sheet, but I also don't know much about the CompArf setup. And if you haven't seen them, AirWild sells some really nice aluminum servo wheels. Would definitely recommend them to attach the G10 to.

I'd also get as much done as you can before you start to cover. Tank tray, horns, everything. You'll be surprised how much you ding up doing these things, and it is really hard to fix dings after the covering is done!

Ken

[gareth.ky]

It will be a push-pull setup using a double horn and solid linkages. The servo is in the bottom of the fuse. Like this:



SWB makes a 4 1/2" double arm I could use also, that's probably what I'll go with since I don't have any metal servo wheels.

Here is what was talking about. Its a G10 or phenolic plate that bolts to a metal servo wheel:

Servo Wheel.jpg installation.jpg double horn.jpg

Those photos are out of one of the 2.6 meter (35%) instructions manuals. They use double truss horns on the 3.0 meter size airplanes. The double truss design is nice for using ball links but not totally necessary for strength, at least as far as I can tell. This stuff is tough!

Your probably right about the tank tray and I'm certainly going to do control horns before things get covered. I'm really just waiting on clearing this stuff up about how to do the rudder before getting on with that step.

[rcplanefan]

Really like that rudder servo setup. Post some pictures when you get yours worked out, and finish that plane! I got mine to that stage last year at this time and then ran out of gas. Wound up finishing it 2 weeks before the Nats. Man, I should have finished it up much earlier than that.

Ken

[gareth.ky]

G10 is some serious stuff. You can't cut through it with a knife blade. A Dremel with a cutoff wheel has trouble but can get through it. If you want to cut out something like a control horn your best bet is Tungsten Carbide. Dremel makes a Tungsten Carbide scroll saw blade and that's what I used to cut out the horn out.

The PDF for the design is attached. The horn is 4 1/2" wide to match the SWB 4 1/2" straight double servo arm.

It took about 20 minutes to cut out. Dangerous dust goes everywhere, use a mask and dust collection.

This stuff doesn't have a memory like aluminum does. You would need more aluminum to make a part as strong because it would have to be thick enough to resist bending entirely.

I'm pretty sure I don't need two of these because its a push & pull and not a pull/pull linkage. If it was double trussed it would flex less. I don't think the linkage will let it flex all that much. I bet that I can't find a way to secure this thing to the rudder that is stronger than the material itself. The control horn and rudder will part ways before you could break it the horn.

I think I'll attach the horn to a piece of 1/8" aircraft ply. Epoxy the two together, filling up the holes so they are really locked. I'll use poly glue to secure it to the bottom of the rudder. I'll dig a channel under the skins for the poly glue to really lock into. Just like how I did the elevators. Sound good?

[TrojanMan]

Looks great Gareth! Keep it going you are almost there!

Jim