n00bs Gonna Build a Carden

[chucku]

Cool, so its decided

[gareth.ky]

I did some tests last night with each of the colors applied over each other. The result is that nothing can be applied over the Blue without the blue showing through. Red can be applied over Yellow without a problem. Yellow over Red doesn't work well either.

Instead of trying to make things complicated I'll just do all the Red parts on the wings as overlays. So the wings will get covered in 2 pieces, and then the red will go on top. I can do that part first and then design a pattern for the red parts in CAD and go down to Kinkos and run if off on the wide format printer. Then make templates from that and cut the red parts out.

[gareth.ky]

Any good throttle servo recommendations? I sold the ones that came with my DX7 so I need one. Don't care about brand. LHS sells Futaba and JR so I can get those locally.

I know covering and finishing are some of the scary bits for people. I have done some of it before with Solite and with monokote waaaaay back when I built the Spectra. If you think Monokote is bad just try Solite. I want to try Ultracote, maybe on the next project.

There are a couple of good videos by the English dude that works for SolarFilm in the UK. He's got a bunch of useful tips and stuff. Videos are linked at the bottom of the page. Video quality is poor but the advice is good. The trick where he uses masking tape to tear the covering in a straight line is money.

[Vic3D]

	Quote: Originally Posted by gareth.ky
	Any good throttle servo recommendations? I sold the ones that came with my DX7 so I need one. Don't care about brand. LHS sells Futaba and JR so I can get those locally. I know covering and finishing are some of the scary bits for people. I have done some of it before with Solite and with monokote waaaaay back when I built the Spectra. If you think Monokote is bad just try Solite. I want to try Ultracote, maybe on the next project. There are a couple of good videos by the English dude that works for SolarFilm in the UK. He's got a bunch of useful tips and stuff. Videos are linked at the bottom of the page. Video quality is poor but the advice is good. The trick where he uses masking tape to tear the covering in a straight line is money.

If you don't mind the price, a Futaba 9254 on the throttle would be KILLER. Basically any Futaba servo from 9251-9254 will do great. I think they're all under .12 seconds.

I like a Hitec 5965 on the throttle myself.

[eagle1]

Hey gareth, I just finished reading this thread, sounds like you went through some droma on the beveling, I built a GP 33% extra 330L that has bevels the same way, I had glued everything to the surfaces, marked a center line on both halves then use the GP plainer workes like a champ, finished it all off with a long t-bar sander, the plane looks great, you cannot expect a better build for your first "giant" as to date I pretty much gave up on building and now just an installer, I now build Compy's saves time but takes moe money, good luck on the finished product and I look forward on the maiden flight and report on how well this plane flies, I went to a local IMAC a couple of weekends ago and 95% of the guys were flying Cardens, again great looking build and informative having said that..GET BACK TO WORK...lol
I meant aeroworks, not cardens, there was a few daltons there also

[gareth.ky]

Those Comp ARF's look great. To me their lines look more scale than the kits or ARF's on the market. The IMAC event I was at there was 1 Carden and like 6 Compy's. At this point I could probably afford one too with all the money I put into the build! Its is not cheaper to build than buy an ARF.

On with the work:

I spend Saturday doing the final prep on the wings and stabs. The stabs were only getting 45 degrees of throw so I upped that to 55 degrees. I also did a bunch of sanding so the bevels meet at full deflection and seal the gap. The ailerons probably have 40 degrees of throw available now. A good trick for doing this final work is to put a piece of tape over the crown of the bevel so you don't sand it down by accident. then you can sand without being so careful. Still takes a while to go slowly and do a lot of checks. Walt says this takes him about a day and from my experience that's about right.

I took some measurement's of the wings and stabs to make up the templates for the wing design. I took the PDF to Kinkos and had them run off a full size version on their large format printer.

Schemes.png

Sunday was all stabs all day. Seems like it takes like an hour to lay 1 square foot of this stuff. The bubbles were really giving me problems until I started really stretching the covering. I'm running about 280 on the iron. I'm pulling on it like I want to rip it. When I started doing that it started to go smoother and faster.

[gareth.ky]

Vic3D, I looked for the Futaba at the LHS but they were a little low on stock. Hitec HS-5965 is a bit cheaper. I guess for the throttle you want speed, sturdiness and you don't care about torque. The digis are just plain faster.


I realized that there is one job I have no idea how to do: plumb the fuel tank. My fleet is all electric, if it doesn't have wires I'm clueless! Any good links to a How-To out there?

[Flyjunkie]

Looking good!!! Keep those pictures coming

[Vic3D]

	Quote: Originally Posted by gareth.ky
	Vic3D, I looked for the Futaba at the LHS but they were a little low on stock. Hitec HS-5965 is a bit cheaper. I guess for the throttle you want speed, sturdiness and you don't care about torque. The digis are just plain faster. I realized that there is one job I have no idea how to do: plumb the fuel tank. My fleet is all electric, if it doesn't have wires I'm clueless! Any good links to a How-To out there?

Yup. I ordered the 5965 for the throttle myself a couple days ago. .10 speed is awesome.

For the tank:

I recommend a du-bro 32 oz. You want to use all 3 holes. Top one is the vent, and the two bottom ones need a clunk attached to them. One of these lines with a clunk goes to the fuel dot for filling and drawing out. The other clunked line goes straight to the carb. The top line (vent) ou want to twist the brass tubing inside the tank to the tip touches the top of the tank so it will overflow when full. Remember to use a long hose for the vent line so you can loop it around the tank and then back forward and down under the cowl. This is done so you don't lose fuel during flight in downlines.

[eagle1]

vic3d, I thought that was done on the feed line not the vent line, I may be setting mine up wrong.

[Vic3D]

	Quote: Originally Posted by eagle1
	vic3d, I thought that was done on the feed line not the vent line, I may be setting mine up wrong.

What are you referring to?

[Vic3D]

Drew this up just now with Paint. Should clear up some questions.