Anyone flying a ZDZ80/ Aeroworks 75cc Yak QB??????

[Paul Cataldo]

Gentlemen,
I would like to ask a few questions in regards to the Aeroworks 75cc YAK build/setup. More specifically, I would like to know if anyone here is using a ZDZ 80 on this plane? Here are my questions, and as soon as I can get the answers, I will be able to order the rest of the parts needed for us to build this plane. Thanks for any help you could give.

1. Does the 75cc Yak QB use the same length H9 Prolinks as the 75cc Extra 260 QB does? What length H9 Prolinks are needed on the ailerons, elevators, and rudder IF using push pull????

2. If you look at the 75cc Yak page on Chief A/C's site, you see an underside pic of the 75cc Yak, and it shows NOT a canister tunnel, BUT RATHER a TUNED PIPE tunnel built into the plane.
Is this what guys are using, rather than a canister?

3. What I really need to know, is does anyone know what tuned pipe can be used with this 75cc Yak, and a ZDZ 80??? Anyone ran this setup, or know someone who has? We could really use the help here. I don't suppose anyone knows if there is a carbon fiber tuned pipe that will work with the ZDZ 80 on the 75cc Yak???

4. For anyone who is using the ZDZ 80, did you have to use push-pull or pull-pull on the rudder? Just wondering what the general consensus is on this? I realize different engines, and batteries/spinners/etc could affect the outcome, but I'm just looking for a general consensus..
Thanks for the help guys. I sure could use it.

[sonito]

beware this plane will fall apart attached are pics of mine and Aeroworks will not stand behind the product and give you a lame excuse like your servos were inadequate or that the moon was not lined up with the rest of the planets at the time of the airframe malfunction ect ect

[Artie Johnston]

Did you pull hard on the elevator at like full throttle?

[sonito]

No, straight and 3/4 throttle level 8 point roll and wing falling apart on the 5th point

[Zee]

In my 35 years in R/C flying I have see'n many results of a flutter, and this look like another of those.
May be it started with your high speed passes playing Red Bull racer as you said in another thread.
Full scale airplanes have posted " Do Not Exceed Speed " We do not have it on our transmitter.
In our case we got to use judgement, and sometime our judgement is wrong, with bad results.
Zee

[Paul Cataldo]

I've seen hundreds of guys who own this plane who are totally happy with theirs. This plane is at no more risk than any other plane.
I have read of ONE case of this happening, and that is YOUR case, posted here.
Out of literally thousands of planes sold, I think it's a mute point, unless we see more pilots post with the same problem.
How many guys have had their Composite Arf planes break control horns off, and such? TONS more posts of Comp Arf issues, than with Aeroworks.
Don't get me wrong, IF a company is putting out numerous flawed products, I will be the FIRST to scream bloody murder, in an attempt to force the company to rectify the situation.
This is ONE case, and although I cannot pass judgement on you, but I DO know I've NEVER heard of ANY problem with an Aeroworks ARF QB, until just now, today.
There is absolutely NO ARF company out there, with a 100% perfect track record.
It just isn't possible. I would say AW's has just about the closest to perfect track record going....

[sukhoi26mx]

Paul,

I think if you look close that you'll agree that the wing bolt holding the panel on the tube either backed out or was never installed. Had it been, there would be damage to that location on either the wing or the fuse from the failure of the panel - there is none in either position. I think the wing simply slid off the tube and failed when it rotated uncontrollably.

I'm flying a ZDZ 80 Super on standard mufflers. Answers to your questions (well, answers that I have anyway - not all of them):

1. I'll measure.

2. Running mufflers, but I believe the can tunnel is set up for the MTW 110. The manual is available online. http://www.aero-works.net/upload/manual/75cc_yak.pdf . Better yet, give Rocco or Kim a call.

3. Running mufflers.

4. Pull/pull rudder. Plenty of room for a good CG moving components with the muffler setup. You'll add close to a pound ahead of the CG with a can, so push/pull might be a better option. I'd recommend making that decision with the airplane sitting in front of you.

Scott

[luv2flyguy]

Sonito- You have already stated your case on another thread of your own! It's time you back off with the bashing, I'm sure everyone here is sorry for your loss and hope that it is resolved in a timely manner. But to come over on another thread where someone is trying to aquire info about a certain set-up and to hijack the thread is wrong. I'm sure Paul has read it already. Paul I have this combo you are asking about, AW 75cc Yak/ZDZ Super 80, I am just finishing it up, it seems to be a great plane, a friend of mine had the same set-up and it was insane power! All the hardware was used on mine except for the fuel tank which I swithed out for a Dubro tank. I used a Smart-Fly Super Reg and Power Expander Sport, TBM Li-Ion (x2) for the reciever and one on the ignition. Hitec 5955's all the way around with Air Wild arms. If you have any other question PM me and I will be glad to answer, I saw your build on the 75cc Extra, it's nice

[Chas_97]

Will the MTW110 tuned pipe fit perfectly in this model? What header goes with it? Where to buy it. Sorry I'm not up to speed on where to purchase everything. How's the performance with the Super 80 and the MTW110?

[Paul Cataldo]

MTW110 canister can be purchased from TBM, DA, or possibly DHS (Don's Hobby Shop).
Missed your calls earlier as I fell asleep. Will discuss more later.

[Chas_97]

I wound up going with the JMB 30mm fixed header and the JMB 80mm cannister. The header protrudes from the AW 75cc YAK54 cowl by about an inch or so at a total length of say about 3 inches total. It's towards the bottom of the cowl so I'm hoping it won't be very bad to look at. I'm not too bothered by it really. The JMB cannister fits good in the tunnel of the bottomside of the fuse.