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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Adelaide, Australia Age: 29
Posts: 36
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Just ordered myself a Great Planes 1/3 Pitts Special. While I'm waiting, I was wondering if anyone who has one or has put one together (can hardly call it building!) can let me know what all the hardware etc is like? What needs replacing with better stuff? Also what servo's do ppl use? I know 1 guy used the futaba s3003 servos, and thats what was used in the gp review, I have a few spektrum ds821's knocking around, so I thought they might do untill I can afford to upgrade them. And can you put 2 servo's ono the rudder? Cheers in advance for any advice! |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Conroe, Texas U.S.A.
Posts: 2,152
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BJ, Where did you order a GP Pitts ARF from? Here in the States those little babies are extinct since they were discontinued some time back. I'd be interested in knowing where I could order one and how much they'd be. My six year old Pitts had a kill wire break loose right after takeoff and the motor quit. This resulted in a low airspeed, pancake type landing (if you want to call it that!!) I have made all the repairs except for the top wing. The rest of the airframe has been sanded and all the glue joints have been touched up. I'll be using a GP Christian Eagle canopy on the Pitts to make an S-2 with a couple of seats in it. WT |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Adelaide, Australia Age: 29
Posts: 36
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Got the last one here in oz I beleive ![]() Tower hobbies sell spare parts, and apparently one they have all the spares back in stock it will be, beleive it or not, cheaper to buy all of the spares than buying the kit (so I've been told) So did you replace any of the hardware in yours when you built it? |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Conroe, Texas U.S.A.
Posts: 2,152
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Use the hardware as it comes. Be aware of the top wing/cabane attach brackets. If they are shiny or chrome looking, replace them. They get stress cracks in as little as 3 flights. Also make sure that the hole that is in the bottom of the center section of the top wing is marked with a tag. Early versions need a modification INSIDE the wing center section. (You had to cut open the wing sheeting and add a piece of 1/4" ply for the screw to hold the brackets to.) Without the modification the screw would go into the spruce spar and since it was only 1/4" inch square, you had a pretty decent chance of missing solid wood. This would in turn cause top wing failure. I'm not sure you've ever had the displeasure of shedding your top wing on a Pitts but I'll tell you the stall speed of what's left flying just went WAY up!! Stay in touch and when you get yours I'll feed you whatever info I can. WT |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Turbine Hucker ![]() Join Date: May 2007 Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 1,344
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I have a GP Christen Eagle II, which is similar to the GP Pitts. Go with high torque servos on your control surfaces. Anything over 120 oz will be fine. I bought the plane used with low torque servos and the plane moved like a pig. I am sure you can rig two for the rudder, but I flew mine with one rudder servo and it was fine. You're not going to do knife Edge loops with this thing, so there is no need for 2 rudder servos. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Flyin' Around ![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
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I have a new in box GP Pitts that I will sell for $400. That's breakeven with what I paid for it and shipping from Tower. You can reach me on cell phone (713) 503-8795. I live in West Houston so we can arrange to meet somewhere and not have to ship. I inspected the kit when it arrived and everything was in great shape. It has been stored in the original packing since delivery.
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Adelaide, Australia Age: 29
Posts: 36
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Just had a quick look at the manual online while I wait to get it, and I see that it has wires between the wings (fly wires I think theyre called) Are these functional or just for scale appearance?
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Bad-ass Super Contributer! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Conroe, Texas U.S.A.
Posts: 2,152
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BJ, I flew mine for six years without them. I'm doing a total re-cover at the moment. The airframe is all repaired and sanded smooth. I've touched up all the joints with some fresh C/A. Getting rid of all the little red specks of Monokote was a chore. I also drilled out all the old Robarts and will go with new ones. I did a check on the motor box and put in a couple of strips of glass cloth down the sides, both inside and out. WT |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Adelaide, Australia Age: 29
Posts: 36
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I just had the joy (or misfortune) of recovering a model myself. I am NEVER doing that again!! Turned out it woud have been cheaper and easier just to buy a new model!! But the end product did turn out better than the original, so that makes it kinda worthwhile.
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Gettin' Lower! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Adelaide, Australia Age: 29
Posts: 36
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OK, got the plane and I'm getting another project off the bench first, but of course I have opened the box to check it all out, and it all looks pretty good! A little dissapointed in the covering, but I guess it will do. I have read that if putting a gasser iin it the firewall needs some strengthening. What and how is this acheived? Also I have a DL50 to go in it now, but flipping through the manual, the instructions for fitting the gasser doesnt work with the DL due to the carby being on the back. If anyone has pics of the firewall mods and possibly any of the engine fitted could you either post them here or e-mail them to me please? |
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