42% Dalton 260

[iflyjr]

Hey Guy's

I am just starting on my extra 260 and I am wondering if there is anything I should know. I have read alot of the build threads about the 300 and 260. I believe I have an older kit because of the 3/32 sheeting for the wing. This is my first 42% plane I have builted alot of other planes. Here are some pictures so far.

Thanks for the help

Tim

[Wild Thang]

looks nice

[iflyjr]

Thanks Matt

Tim

[picard]

Looks like a great start

Mike

[sukhoi26]

Looks great so far. Let us know if you have any questions. It's nice to see some other build threads on here. Keep up the good work.
If you have alot of 3/32 then you have an older kit. if you want to change the wing skins to 1/16 let me know. Rob

[dbcaster]

Rob,
Do you have 1/16 wing skins that you are getting rid of? I am looking for some for a set of Dalton wings.

[sukhoi26]

I can get the 1/16 sheeting from Bud Nosen. But the 1/16 wing shins are hard to find and are very expensive. Rob

[iflyjr]

I do have a question about the stab root rib. I have notice in the other builds the root rib has tabs on it mine does not, should I change mine. The last picture shows the stab root that I have. I have the angle bracket that screws to the stab and fuse. Will the 3/32 sheeting add to much weight? I want to core the wings.

Here are some more pictures.

Thanks Tim

[sukhoi26]

I would stick with what you have on the stab set up. The pieces you see on my builds are specially cut for me on a laser but for them to work i had to change the stab support in the tail also. Your past that point so i would leave that alone. The sheeting on the wings is up to you. You will definitely save weight with the 1/16 sheeting. So you will have to decide what you want to do. Your really not looking at that much money for 1/16 sheeting. Rob

[The Dirt Doctor]

	Quote: Originally Posted by sukhoi26
	I would stick with what you have on the stab set up. The pieces you see on my builds are specially cut for me on a laser but for them to work i had to change the stab support in the tail also. Your past that point so i would leave that alone. The sheeting on the wings is up to you. You will definitely save weight with the 1/16 sheeting. So you will have to decide what you want to do. Your really not looking at that much money for 1/16 sheeting. Rob

By your specially cut do you mean cut so that you can put two blind nuts in to allow easy removal of the stabs like Walt did for Ryan's 300ML?

Bobby

[JimC-MD]

I have the stock setup on my stabs and find them very easy to R&R. They are also very solid in mounting. Be sure to fit the black anchor piece to the fuse side and stab, sanding as required before setting the incidence. The other thing the plans are not very clear on is the interaction between the 1/2 dowel inserted into the bottom leading edge of the stab and the 1/4 antirotation dowl that goes into the aluminum tube. The large dowel should be placed so that when you drill through the aluminum to set it, you drill through the root and into the 1/2 dowl. This gives a very solid mount. The other thing I did was get a couple of pieces of 1/4 dowel until I found one that was just a shade over sized. (would not fit into the aluminum) Then I put a piece in a drill and sanded it until was a perfect fit. If the hole was drilled with the black anchor in place and the incidence perfect, when you slide the stab back on it will be perfect zero with just the rotation pin and there is no load on the anchor other than to hold the stab in.

The other tip I would give is stolen from MattyMatt and modded a little. I took 6 8/32 t-nuts and ran a drill through them to scuff out the sides. 6/32 bolts will pass through these easily. I then took a forstner bit and inset them on the outside of FSS where the hatch bolts pass through the fuse sides. This was, if a hatch bolt ever loosens up, the vibration will not wear through the wood and mess up a fuse side.

I have pictures at home if you need them.

Last thing. You may want to get Tony to send you a couple of the side support pieced that go between FSS and each MBS just below the wing tube. If they did not come in your kit because it is older, they really make the motor box section like a rock where the front wing anchor goes in.


Looking good on the build. I have two more 300s in the works right now.

[MattyMatt]

	Quote: Originally Posted by iflyjr
	I do have a question about the stab root rib. I have notice in the other builds the root rib has tabs on it mine does not, should I change mine. The last picture shows the stab root that I have. I have the angle bracket that screws to the stab and fuse. Will the 3/32 sheeting add to much weight? I want to core the wings. Here are some more pictures. Thanks Tim

Personally, I like the stock method for attching the stabs. Never had an issue with it, and is still only 3 screws in total to remove the stabs.

If you build the 260 completely stock it will easily come in at or less than 38 lbs. Stock gear and all. Unless you are a proficient builder and gunning for some of the upper IMAC classes... I'd build it 100% stock and save youself a ton of time.

The only lightning that you need to do, is if you are planning to run the two rudder servos in push/pull mounted in the tail. If so, which I can not recommend enough, then you'l need to open bay the rudder to help with balance. Other than that... build it stock.

Matt