THE NEW MT 57CC ENGINE

[closetguy]

well i found one problem,the timing was set at 14 degrees BTDC.and of corse i ran out of adjustment and had to drill and tap two lower holes to get it to 28-30 BTDC.so i will try again tomorrow and see if it made any difference. be nice if it was this simple of fix.

[forgues research]

	Quote: Originally Posted by closetguy
	well i found one problem,the timing was set at 14 degrees BTDC.and of corse i ran out of adjustment and had to drill and tap two lower holes to get it to 28-30 BTDC.so i will try again tomorrow and see if it made any difference. be nice if it was this simple of fix.

Doesn't this engine have an auto advanced ignition like all solid state?? If so, it was actually advanced too much , and you should retard closer to O degrees not more advanced.

Roger

[soarrich]

	Quote: Originally Posted by forgues research
	Doesn't this engine have an auto advanced ignition like all solid state??Roger

No, they are called auto advance, but they really auto retard.

This is what Pe found.

About the RCexcl ignition:

below 500 rpm, the ignition does not retard! So flip the prop slowly, and she will bite.

above 800 rpm, the ignition retards a full 21 degrees.

at 1500 rpm, the retardation is lessened up to ~3500, when retard is nil again.

A very nice range that allows excellent throttle response without any power jumps or surges.
up to 8500 rpm, the ignition fires as set by the pickup!
above 8500, there seemed to be a very slight retard again, catering for the higher squish velocities encountered in the combustion chamber.

[soarrich]

	Quote: Originally Posted by closetguy
	well i found one problem,the timing was set at 14 degrees BTDC.and of corse i ran out of adjustment and had to drill and tap two lower holes to get it to 28-30 BTDC.so i will try again tomorrow and see if it made any difference. be nice if it was this simple of fix.

I found that too, I just cut the slots longer, and I think used 3mm Allens to be able to get a few more degrees out of it. I think I mentioned it to Larry, so he could get Tomy Shen to fix it, I make sure Larry knows about it.

[mistydee0]

	Quote: Originally Posted by closetguy
	well i found one problem,the timing was set at 14 degrees BTDC.and of corse i ran out of adjustment and had to drill and tap two lower holes to get it to 28-30 BTDC.so i will try again tomorrow and see if it made any difference. be nice if it was this simple of fix.

Tom, The first thing I did when I got the engines was to put on a degree wheel and check timming. You are 100% right when you say it is at 14 degrees, as that is what I got. I called China and talked to Tomy about this. He said it was suppose to be at this, and the box would take care of the rest of the timming. {as per the R/C excel co. that makes the ign.} BUT!!! Soarich and I bumped the timming up higher and got more RPM out of the engine. I have been slotting the brackets on all the engines going out to increase the timming. So you are right. After the first few engines that went out I started to measure the distance from the edge of the Hall sensor to the edge of the triggering magnet and using the formuler of circ. and pi I measured every engine that went out. {it was easier to do that then installing the degree wheel on each engine. Ralph also told me the measurement should be .357 and that is what I got when the engine was at TDC.
So you are on the right track, tuning the engine. I do not think you really had to drill and tap new holes but that was one way to do it. Thanks for your imput, and you taking the time to properly tune the engine.

Larry, LS PRO ENGINES

AIRBORNE RANGER

[mistydee0]

Also, for everyone that is waiting for Ralph to post, be patient, he has sent the engine out to his test pilot for flight testing and videos. Also he is getting another engine from Tomy R/C in parts, to inspect measure assemble, and run tests. This is going to be done right. Plus Ralph has some issues with his better half in and out of the hospital, and running a business. Its not like he is getting PAID to do this review.

Larry LS PRO ENGINES



AIRBORNE RANGER

[Al Lewis]

Sorry to hear about Ralph's problems.

[bbagle1]

Does anyone know what thread the four crank case bolts are that the stand-offs screw into? i need 2" stand-offs and don't know what size the threads are. Does anyone know where I can purchase them?

Larry, i received my engine about two weeks ago, do I need to check the timing or can I assume all is well?

[mistydee0]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bbagle1
	Does anyone know what thread the four crank case bolts are that the stand-offs screw into? i need 2" stand-offs and don't know what size the threads are. Does anyone know where I can purchase them? Larry, i received my engine about two weeks ago, do I need to check the timing or can I assume all is well?

The bolts are 5mm that hold the cases together. Run the engine the timming is ok.

Larry LS PRO ENGINES

[closetguy]

you know i tried to do it the easy way first, by cutting the slots longer in the sensor and just didn't have enough to do it,could only get it to 25 degrees BTDC (close but no cigar). i filled the two factory holes with JB weld.

Larry i now i should just call you and maybe i will, but do you have the correct spark plug for this engine.or a number of one that i can get locally.i hate to just put any plug that fits in the hole.
i tried the plug that Ralph suggested RDJ7Y but it was to small.

it will take a few test cases to get all the bugs work out but after that i think this will be a good strong engine. going to run the engine today to see if any difference.

[sinergy]

I am slightly confused how Tomy came up with 14 degrees... I don't know of an ignition out there that uses that number. Infact its well known the RC Excel engine is a copy of an older CH design with some input from CH to make it better. It's been 28 degrees for like 20 years.. seems odd to me.

As for Ralph I am sorry to hear that. However he hasn't posted in the thread for 15 days when he has been posting everywhere else daily. Why hasn't he even shared any thoughts or numbers? I know he has had the thing a part and you know he has ran it... knowing him with and without the muffler. This has to be the first time I have heard of Ralph using a test pilot? The guy has been an engine guy forever.. I don't think he needs a test pilot to provide to the insight most are looking for.

[soarrich]

I put a Champion CJ8Y plug in, it works great, I got it at True Value Hardware for $3. I also bought a CJ6 which is a colder plug, I'll try that too.

I got the 28*, but just and I had to lengthen the slots, I also used 3mm Allens to get it. Sounds like a little miscommunication between Tomy and the IE guy, but an easy fix, I had forgotten I did it even, it was just part of putting the IE on the engine. My Brillelli came with the sensor where Scott wanted it, and I don't think you can move it, that might be a better way. I might be a little upset if the sensor goes bad and I have to send the engine back to Scott to be fixed, so the way Tomy does it has merit too.

	Quote: Originally Posted by closetguy
	you know i tried to do it the easy way first, by cutting the slots longer in the sensor and just didn't have enough to do it,could only get it to 25 degrees BTDC (close but no cigar). i filled the two factory holes with JB weld. Larry i now i should just call you and maybe i will, but do you have the correct spark plug for this engine.or a number of one that i can get locally.i hate to just put any plug that fits in the hole. i tried the plug that Ralph suggested RDJ7Y but it was to small. it will take a few test cases to get all the bugs work out but after that i think this will be a good strong engine. going to run the engine today to see if any difference.