N Spektrum 9 channel RX designed just for Giant Scale

[bodywerks]

I already knew that, having used Fromeco regs and Smart-fly Power expanders.
When I am at home, I have the option of charging through the main lead (since it is disconnected and the plane is disassembled) or through the normal charge lead. But when I am at the field, if I want to charge the batteries real quick, I don't have to take the hatch off and unplug stuff.

	Quote: Originally Posted by McCartyCFII
	Bodywerks, You are correct, you do not "Have" too, but you will have to deal with this; Note: When a battery is connected to the PowerSafe a low current drain of less than 1mA occurs even when the switch is turned off. If the system is going to be stored for any length of time, it’s important that the battery(s) be disconnected from the PowerSafe to prevent over-discharge.

[bodywerks]

I will be charging both at the same time because I have a charger that can do both balance-charginging and plain ol' charging, unlike the limited CellPro. The common ground should not affect regular charging. If you haven't already purchased the cellPro's, then get a different charger. I think everyone jumped on the CellPro band wagon too quickly - there is absolutely NO NEED to balance-charge a 2-cell ANYTHING (especially A123's), EVERY SINGLE charge. Get a charger that is capable of just plain ol' charging a battery through the +/- of the pack. Then, if you feel sorry for the batteries, plug in a Blinky balancer on occasion while charging at home, with the batteries disconnected from the receiver.

	Quote: Originally Posted by Zeeb
	Well are you charging one at a time, or both at the same time? The whole idea for me is to be able to charge both at the same time. Since I'm going to be using CellPro's, the common ground thing could be an issue. It looks to me, just thinking about it, that if you just put a charge lead on the battery pack, unless there is a break in the ground circuit, it's gona be common.... Now I'm used to charging all three batteries at the same time, but they're Duralites and it's done with one charger and they have their own charge/balance circuitry in the pack. If it'll work like you describe, then ya your system would be just fine and I'll use the soft switch. I guess I'll have to wait until I can get the rx and put stuff together, then ohm it out....

[DadsToysBG]

Has you can see from all the posts. You get as many answers as posts. The 7ch Futaba modules for 7 ch are due out in Dec. If you use a Spektrum on a 9c you get 8 ch. with the 9303X you get all 9 ch. It is out now. I only have one of the 2.4 9303x with out servos left in my store and I believe they are already on B/O. If you want Futaba 9C with the 2.4 module you better put it B/O now because they will sell out the first shipment very fast. Either one of these radios will do anything you want for a very long time. You will probility never need more radio unless you end up in turbines. Even then a 9ch will fly them. Dennis

[bodywerks]

huh? What does that have to do with the AR9100 receiver? Did I miss something?

[rcheliman]

I think we can lose one weak link and thats the switch period, I'm going to use a Deans switch, which has no moving parts and can be charged from the outside of the plane and also disconnects the power supply when disabled after the jumper is removed. You guy's check this out and see what you think. Mark

[Royster]

How would you go about testing A123 packs with a AR9100?

Would a standard voltmeter do the job or is there something like the Fromeco 8 Ball tester?

[Eury]

You can't test A123s, they hold up too well under load. You have to fly and see how much you took out of them and use that to decide how Many flights you can make

[Zeeb]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Eury
	You can't test A123s, they hold up too well under load. You have to fly and see how much you took out of them and use that to decide how Many flights you can make

Well you CAN test them, it just doesn't do much good....

[Royster]

Mmmm, you can, you cant. Confused

All I want to do is put a meter on em and get a voltage reading to let me know they are still working.

Yes, I get A123s are reliable but they are made by man so that means you will get a dud.

[JimC-MD]

I am using Kodiak switches. If you were to land and see that the use per side was skewed more than .1 amps you would know you have a problem. If you can see the powere lights on the 9100 through the canopy and they did not both turn on, that would be an indicator of an issue. From testing I have done, it appears that if you put enough of a fixed load on them you can get an indication of state of charge. I will not post numbers, because what I have seen I cannot prove to be 90% plus accurate yet.

If you have a FMA balance charge for these units, you can plug them up and get a quick check on state of charge, BUT!!!! It appears to be a moving number. You may initially get a 43% life calculation at initial charge start, but a 2300 pack will only take 1100 mah to full state. Once they have been on for a few minutes it gets dialed in to the pack better.

[cjdscratch]

[quote=JimC-MD;464709] If you can see the powere lights on the 9100 through the canopy and they did not both turn on, that would be an indicator of an issue.
quote]


The 9100 is designed to draw the batteries down equally. It does this by drawing from the battery with the highest voltage. So if you plug in batteries that have a slightly different starting voltage, the RX will draw off the higher voltage battery until they equal eachother. So for short periods only one light may be on and the RX is functioning properly.

[JimC-MD]

[quote=cjdscratch;464744]

	Quote: Originally Posted by JimC-MD
	If you can see the power lights on the 9100 through the canopy and they did not both turn on, that would be an indicator of an issue. quote] The 9100 is designed to draw the batteries down equally. It does this by drawing from the battery with the highest voltage. So if you plug in batteries that have a slightly different starting voltage, the RX will draw off the higher voltage battery until they equal eachother. So for short periods only one light may be on and the RX is funtioning properly.

True, but does that make my comment inaccurate? If there is only one light on, is it an issue? It may be minor (slight pack imbalance) or major (one pack is weak, switch issue, connector etc) but is it still an issue worth finding the answer to?

I thought the one poster was looking for ways to verify the integrity of A123 packs. Since there is not a solid way of directly testing them quickly, everything is inferred by observation or getting intrusive. I was offering ways to deduce if he should look deeper when using them.

If I misunderstood his question I apologize.