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To those that have this method down. I need to run my confusion by you and see if you can help me here.
It says to start the high end by adusting to peak RPM. Does that mean adusting the high end until it holds the RPM without sag? Because then he says to open the low end slightly if it does sag. That's my first point of confusion. Seems like both of the needles are trying to achieve the same result (peak RPM without sag). Is this correct? Or am I reading this wrong? How exactly do I adjust my high needle for peak RPM (micro steps please)?
Excuse my thick headedness but I'd like to get the end result he talks about. I tried this once but I didn't get it right. It's a new DA 50 with less than a gallon through it. |
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Before you begin your tuneup, reset your needles to factory settings to start from gouund zero.
It's best to set the topend first. Start your engine, let it warm up. Transition to full throttle. Adjust the HIGHEND NEEDLE to peak RPM. Then, SLOWLY throttle back until the engine begins to FOUR STROKE. At the point, adjust the LOWEND needle until the FOUR STROKING stops. Pull the throttle down more until it FOUR STROKES again and repeat this until you reach full IDLE. NOW, transition up rapidly. IF it sags or bogs, open the LOWEND needle
SLIGHTLY until the sagging is gone... YOU"RE DONE!
One big MISTAKE people make (when they tune up a gasser) is to peak the engine then back off the needle to richen it up slightly just like a glow fuel engine. DO NOT DO THAT! Once your carb is properly tuned to peak
it will maintain the CORRECT air to fuel balance. Richening it up only causes the engine to run wet and inefficient. IF you are not sure if you have a good tune, look inside your muffler or pull your spark plug.
It'll tell you real quick. If it's black & wet its time to re-do your tune.