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Quote: Originally Posted by sensei |
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The lightest paint option would be: On solid surfaces use 1/2 oz. glass cloth and Minwax varithane for application of the glass,and on open bay if you have any; silk and dope. You have to place this on the surface of you wood prior to finishing because your fiinish will swell back into the wood and look like sh#% in short order. On a 35% you will only add between 1 and 1.5 lbs.more weight over Monokote if you remove most of your high build primer, and go easy on the clearcoat; while still maintainimg the same finish qualities as Monokote. The upside to this is you will never have to re-tighten your airplane. If you lighten your airplane prior to covering; you can come in at the same weight as your stock build with Monokote. Bob |
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Bob - any tips on how to apply the Minwax Varithane? Is it really that much lighter than thinned resin?
On my pattern planes I am using .7oz cloth with finishing resin thinned 50% with acetone. I wet the cloth out using a brush and remove ALL excess. I try only to wet it and not fill the weave at all. In about 3 hrs when the the resin "kicks" and gets tacky I use micro balloons rubbed on to fill the weave. When done right you don't even need a high-build primer - just normal primer and sand 95% of it off. I have been practicing this on some sheeting in prep for building 2 new pattern planes this winter.
Silkspan and dope on the wings is lighter still I've read.
I am seriously considering doing a 40% this way. I would take weight off to begin with and hope to land at around the standard weight. I am thinking of a Dalton MEL. It will be for IMAC so I don't mind carrying a little extra weight especially in windy conditions. Paint would be Nelson System-3 with some kind of clear (maybe theirs, maybe PPG if it is compatible.)
I have had both wood and composite planes. I really like how easy it is to repair wood (adding little or no weight) but I vastly prefer a painted surface. I cannot cover to save myself but I can paint okay.
Chris.