yeah - i didnt even want to venture with the wheels/tailwheel...i went with dubro wheels/axles and aeroworks tailwheel.

Sherman - you coming up to Ga in a few weeks for the IMAC contest? i will see you there if you do!

Originally Posted by jraycut

like others said - i used zap a dap a goo on the hooks in the front before even flying the thing. I also applied epoxy to the blocks inside the fuse...no problems out of them at all.

hard to believe that i only have 8 flights on the plane...amazing how life can get in the way of our hobbies I hope to get out this weekend and fine tune the plane for the first contest next month, the plane doesnt lack much...just need to practice the sequence.

I have 3 flights on mine, 2 by me the other by uncle bill

Originally Posted by sherman89

I got some time on the Suk today and I am still impressed with how well it flies. The stock tires fell apart and have been replaced with 4 3/4 Airmans, the tail wheel fell apart today and has been replaced, the Chinese tires are junk----the rubber is very poor quality----Dubro does not have to worry about the Chinese tires taking their market away. Mike has done a great job with the 3.1m Suk, it flies so much like my Carden's of past, now if Hangar9 would put good quality parts (tires) in the kit they would have a winner for sure!!!!!

Sherman it is one fine plane , flys like a dream , don't quit the float planes , thanks frank

Originally Posted by jraycut

yeah - i didnt even want to venture with the wheels/tailwheel...i went with dubro wheels/axles and aeroworks tailwheel.

Sherman - you coming up to Ga in a few weeks for the IMAC contest? i will see you there if you do!

I will be at Mac's for the IMAC in June.

Originally Posted by frank99

Sherman it is one fine plane , flys like a dream , don't quit the float planes , thanks framk

Not to worry about the float planes----I'll be on the lake today with a 40% Super Cub.

Originally Posted by frank99

Sherman it is one fine plane , flys like a dream , don't quit the float planes , thanks framk

Frank,
Did I not read along the way here on FG that you are doing a 100cc Carbon Cub?

The tires are crap but I liked the hubs. I ordered 5" Sullivan Skylites and popped out the plastic hubs. The original aluminum hubs fit very nicely and I didn't need to replace the axles.

Originally Posted by sherman89

Frank,
Did I not read along the way here on FG that you are doing a 100cc Carbon Cub?

yes it is in the shop have not lost any parts yet, waiting on a sweet work bench that is being built and my servos are on back order too S9075SB Digital S.Bus Prog,then get started on this monster, might get it in the air 2015 , cant WAIT to see you at nall ,vacation got the stamp of ok from the boss, i wonder if any one has put floats on a cc yet,i got the blue one, thanks frank

Frank did your Cub come with that flashy looking model or is that extra?

Originally Posted by frank99

yes it is in the shop have not lost any parts yet, waiting on a sweet work bench that is being built and my servos are on back order too S9075SB Digital S.Bus Prog,then get started on this monster, might get it in the air 2015 , can WAIT to see you at nall ,vacation got the stamp of ok from the boss, i wonder if any one has put floats on a cc yet,i got the blue on, thanks frank

Get in touch with Rocco at Aeroworks.

Originally Posted by Super08

Frank did your Cub come with that flashy looking model or is that extra?

That is one fine fuse , body ,for sure , might call rocky for a discount

Originally Posted by frank99

That is one fine fuse , body ,for sure , might call rocky for a discount

We had a great day at the lake today----several Kodak moments but no video camera or operator.

I just spent a few hours fixing the cowl mounting areas where the bolts retain the cowl to the frame. The holes in the cowl had augered out from vibration even though I had replaced the original steel washers with rubber backed washers. Several holes has to a have 1/8" ply squares glued in as the holes were getting too big. This is so typical of the H9 planes especially with the shaker motors which the DA-170 that I use is one. I also caught the side frame pulling away from the motor box joint where the cowl meets on the left side and ca'ed that back together before some serious damage was done. I suspected the cowl to be trouble from the beginning (I had a couple of the H9 260's with the 3W-110 and the DA-120) but when we want the lightest planes the weight has to come from somewhere. I also added ply braces to the small ply formers that support the cowl ring that comes off the motor box after the front one started to delaminate. I fly IMAC which involves a lot of WOT and the vibration destroys frames. I must say though that a properly built Carden does take the vibration well, even from the DA-170. The 170 on pipes is a power house and the Suk flies extremely well but it will not take the vibration that the IMAC sequence hands out to it. So less than 50 flights and the maintenance has begun so for you owners of the MM 3.1 m Suk's start watching your frames for wear and tear, especially the cowl and it's mounts. After checking the price for a replacement cowl at HH I was surprised it the low price-----$92.00 including the motorbox mount. I think I will go ahead and get one so I have a spare in case my repairs don't work out.

one thing i did before anything was take a CA hinge (like used small 40 size arfs/kits) an ca glue this to each attachment point on the cowl and then make a hole the size of the bolt...this will greatly reduce the wear and tear on any fiberglass part. i also used rubber backed washers on the fastners - so far, no problems.

I found the top center cowl bolt to be the most problematic. There was a little too much clearance there noticed when I originally mounted it. (you could see that area silghtly depress when tightened). From the start I used neprene backed bonded washers on all the cowl bolts. Most held up good to fair but not the top cowl bolt.

Ultimately I did 2 things:

1 - I took clear silicone and wiped a film on the wood of the blind mount blocks

2 - I took a piece of very thin aluminum sheet and cut out a 2" by 4" approx piece and arched/bent it to fit the shape of the cowl. I drilled a 3mm whole in the center of it and then a bunch of smaller holes evenly space across it. I then coated it with JB Weld and put in on the inside top of the cowl. Then but the whole thing back together using a 3mm screw through it to allign it all up with the offending center top cowl mount. Secure all the bolts. Run a couple of strips of blue tape across the top just to make sure it is all snug and slip the hatch back on to make sure no unusual clearance there changes and let it cure. The holes in the aluminum strip allow slight seapage of the JB Weld acting like rivets once cured.

20 flights later Zero movement!

Also never used the tailwheel assemble or tire. Used the White Rose CF on from day one.

After about 10 flights replaced the 5"wheels/tires with White Rose axles wheels and brakes.