I've flown mine now about a gallons worth...It flies really true. Flew it yesterday and the aluminum landing gear plates came loose from inside the fuselage.. I would suggest taking bolts out and using blue or red Locktite and lock washers.. I was lucky and got it down with only one bolt holding gear on...
Also my covering came loose on top of fuselage rite in front of fin where it curves down... I've shrunk it and used my iron to re attach but it still comes back up..I may call Horizon Hobby about this... Other than the minor issues the plane flys like its on rails...I'm using the Evo 33

Originally Posted by FlightPunch34

I'm not flying,Shane is, not my plane,but i told him not to use it for the first break in gallon of fuel which is fairly rich at 20:1 mix, and at this richness the engine is quite spluttery & prone to a lot of misfiring (as specified in manual too) ..... i found when i first done the break in with my Inverza that it flew better for the first few flights with cowl off and less chance for a dead stick landing.
When he comes back for me to fine tune the plane for him now and we finish this rich first gallon, i will fine tune the needles and tune it with cowl on then,plus even more importantly,in between the first few flights with the plane for 'break in' it's handy for tuning that no cowl is in the way,i had to make a lot of small tuning adjustments to get the plane flying yesterday in between flights.

Forgot to say also, CG wise- this plane flew fairly perfect with the cocpit RX which is quite large in the middle of the tray behind the wing spar and the two batteries at either side parallel with the fuselage.
Two clicks of up ele trim and two clicks of left aileron trim and it flew hands off

Drilled two holes in the top of a throw away cowl for tuning. Did this after 2 gallons to fine tune the engine.

It came with the EVO 33

How do you find the engine,and what prop do you use?

Originally Posted by richardceay

Drilled two holes in the top of a throw away cowl for tuning. Did this after 2 gallons to fine tune the engine.

Not a bad idea,but what i meant was i find with any of these engines they run far better with cowl off at any given time, so especially for the break in i wanted as much cooling airflow over that engine.... it's easy put cowl on after break in.

Anything to prevent the possibility of a dead stick landing for the break in run.

Here is a paragraph taken from DLE owners manual and this is what it suggests you do with the cowl during the break in period,i have not seen this till now,but i used common sense with my own engine when i got it first and left it off also for the break in runs
14
Problem:
Starting Procedures
When starting the engine for the fi
rst time and during break-in, it’s
recommended that you run the engine without the cowling. Also
for safety reasons do not make adjustment to the carburetor while
the engine is running.
There are two recommended ways to start the DLE-30:
A. Manual Starting
Note:
When hand starting the DLE-30, use a thick glove or heavy-
duty starter stick to protect your hand.
1.

Have had the Inverza, and flown it for over a year now. In my over 45 years (!) in RC, this is the BEST flying plane I have ever owned! Several dozen successful flights, but the old FPE 2.4 motor just wasn't dependable enough (way too many wasted days trying to get it running right), so I threw in the towel and just got a new Evo 33GX.

For those with this combo, did you have to cut the pipes to get the cowl on??? I'm temporarily cutting and reusing my original cowl, until a replacement arrives that can be better cut to fit. But no way can I seem to be able to slip the ring over the pipes, and yet still tip it up over the front of the engine to get it slid on. What's the secret to this puzzle?

FYI - the old engine was heavier, so I needed about 6.5 oz of lead in the tail to balance it to the 3D position. Now with the 33GX, I can cut that back to 3.75oz. The simplest way to mount that is to slip it inside the stab tube! A little foam rubber as plugs, so it doesn't slide around, and you're done. Easy to add or subtract as needed. You can find fishing sinkers that will fit, or mash up the "stick-on" strips of lead (minus the sticky tape) with a pair of pliers to make them fit.

The old engine was rated for up to a 20x10, although for this plane I used a Xoar 20x8. Performance was outstanding. Hope I'm not disappointed with the slight underpowering (40 cc down to 33 cc).

And what's the deal with the "special tubing" packed with the Evo? No way would it fit and stay in place on the brass tank tubing for the tank supplied with the Inverza. I had to go with a larger size brass, and redrill the tank holes.....

Oh geez, finally read all 52 pages of posts - looks like I have to cut either the pipes or the cowl ring. Bummer...

For those wondering about longevity, use thread lock on everything! I've found the tail wheel assembly is terrible - bends back constantly after a landing, so much so that I have a deep divot in my rudder. That will be a winter replacement, if I can figure out away to do so without cutting out all the rudder hinges. Covering has pulled apart in a couple of spots (notably the fin to fuse transition), leaving exposed wood. This due to hot days in the sun. I had to patch with scrap Ultracoat I had available - perfect color match, even though the scrap was at least a decade old!
Cowl stress cracks easily, give it lots of clearance so that nothing ever touches it, especially under heavy vibration. On the next, I will re-fiberglass from the inside near all cut-outs. Tabs for the cowl, as well as the pins for the canopy tend to work loose under vibration, and needed to be reglued.
As others have noted, for flight, with the rear CG - no trim, no mixing, for IMAC type aerobatics! Engine thrust was right on (hope it continues to be with the new engine/prop!) I am playing with elevator to spoileron mixing, which helps with wing rock in Harriers.

This is how I cut cowl for OS GT33 gas engine with stock pits muffler.
It is allow me to remove and put back cowl w/o any extra steps.

Nice job! What did you use for coaming?

I went into the shop planning to shorten the stacks, but on closer examination, there was no way, even if I cut the cowl up to the ply ring, that it would go on, even with the stacks cut flush to the muffler! Given how crack prone the cowl seems to be, I'm very reluctant to cut through the ring. Did some hacking on my now disposable cowl, and made one large opening to clear the head, and mounted muffler. With only a little bit of relief around those obstacles, I can do as a prior post noted - remove the muffler, loosely put the cowl in place, then mount the muffler. Will need two access holes to get the ball driver into the mounting screws. Hope I don't need to do that too often at the field! Anyway, a big section of the bottom will be wide open. Plenty of cooling!
Also I'll cut an access hole to get at the needles. And it looks like I can drop an extension from the choke straight down and out the front bottom of the cowl, to provide ease of use for that.

Something must of changed with that engine (bigger muffler?) - no way would the cowl ever fit over using just the little cutouts shown in the manual!

I used a VERY simple modd for my tail wheel, ok it's so simple & it works great and that's all you need if you ask me,ok a few simple steps, turn plane upside down and under it on the rear bottom side of the fuselage (just next to rudder on the main fuse) drill a tiny screw hole close to rudder but (again) on fuse side,apply some thin CA to hole, screw in a good size phillips head screw, now get a cable tie (zip tie) and run in around the loop of the spring of the tail wheel and secure it to the screw,this will allow perfect movment of everything while keeping the spring where it is,so once you land the spring can't bend anymore.

This is just a simple option to hold the tail wheel in place and to stop it from ruining the rudder,also get rid of the foam wheel and use an airfilled tyre to absorb the landings better too.

Well i finally got around to getting my friend Shanes Inverza set up and ready for the maiden for him,what a great day we had, CG was spot on,two clicks of elev up trim and it was locked in,Evo engine ran like a champ for 3 liters of 'rich' break in mix,but all went super and Shane loves the plane,we are looking forward to follow up flights this weekend and to get the Inverza finished tuned and the break in runs finished

Shanes --H9 Inverza --Evo33cc /Maiden Flight (3 min 56 sec)

Originally Posted by FlightPunch34

I used a VERY simple modd for my tail wheel, ok it's so simple & it works great and that's all you need if you ask me,ok a few simple steps, turn plane upside down and under it on the rear bottom side of the fuselage (just next to rudder on the main fuse) drill a tiny screw hole close to rudder but (again) on fuse side,apply some thin CA to hole, screw in a good size phillips head screw, now get a cable tie (zip tie) and run in around the loop of the spring of the tail wheel and secure it to the screw,this will allow perfect movment of everything while keeping the spring where it is,so once you land the spring can't bend anymore.

This is just a simple option to hold the tail wheel in place and to stop it from ruining the rudder,also get rid of the foam wheel and use an airfilled tyre to absorb the landings better too.

Can u post a picture on what mod u did..

To put smoke setup on Inverza33 is the next step for fun

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=IdhaLM8MX0c

Originally Posted by akouzmit

To put smoke setup on Inverza33 is the next step for fun

Inverza33 with Smoke - YouTube

Don't agree on this airframe,already a heavy plane,but i do like smoke and that is a very nice vid

Haha great vids guys. Good job Shane, you kept Dan on his toes!